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Discussion Starter #1
I have a Eboost2 with a single solenoid on my TT car but I see instructions for using two. Under what circumstances would two solenoids be needed? What issues would the second one help with?

ks
 

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Well, if it works anything like other boost controllers, you have one solenoid that controls the wastegate on one side and another that controls the other side. This should allow you to run without a spring and control the gate via a 'virtual" spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, if it works anything like other boost controllers, you have one solenoid that controls the wastegate on one side and another that controls the other side. This should allow you to run without a spring and control the gate via a 'virtual" spring.
Ahh.. Not at all what I was hoping for so it looks like I have more trouble shooting to do.

During the first 4 test hits the boost was spiking so fast we couldn't control it with the EB2 (or it wasn't working) so we disconnected the hose to the solenoid and ran it with WG spring pressure which was 18psi. I haven't looked into what/why it was going more than what was programmed yet. Boost was going from about 15psi to 25psi in about .2-.3 seconds even tho the solenoid duty cycle was set to 0. It may have gone higher but once it started climbing he let out of it and 25psi is where it logged at.

ks
 

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What do the directions say? I would think there would be some sort of discussion of how the system works..
 

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What do the directions say? I would think there would be some sort of discussion of how the system works..
Not much, just check all connections. There is a Check Solenoid test I will try this weekend if I have time. The only program setting I changed from last year was to change the duty cycle from 60 (which gave me 25psi boost) to 0. I even tried 10 but nothing helped. Last year 25 gave us 18psi boost. I even lowered the gate pressure to try to ramp in the boost reeeaaally slow but it never made a difference.

We checked all the lines to make sure they were correct and all lines are zip tied but didn't see anything.

I changed the hot side piping to help speed up spoolup (was: 2.5" x 3ft long now: 2" x 14" long) and got a new camshaft. I don't know if it's spooling too fast for it to keep up or what's going on but I doubt it. This is what I was hoping a second solenoid may help with.

I'm sure it's electrical and this may have to wait until next year to figure out unless I get some time this fall.

ks
 

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On my system you run separate solenoids, one to each side of the waste gate. Using pressurized air ( about 50 psi) and a timer, you can manually open/close waste gate. Doing this you can leave at whatever boost pressure you want and ramp in the boost however slow/fast that you want. With this method, you do not need a spring. The 50 psi of line pressure acts like a spring of your choosing depending on when you apply/bleed off pressure from one side of the gate to the other.
 

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There are several ways to run gate control solenoids or pressure valves. In a car that is not a strip-only car, you really want to run a spring and just use the dome pressure (or leak off compressor sample pressure) to increase boost above the spring. Dual valves are always more stable unless it is a straight compressor sample bleed system (which often is not that stable anyway) where you just bleed off some compressor boost reference sample to trick the waste gate.

Waste gates tend to leak before reaching opening pressure. Simply bleeding the compressor sample signal off to atmosphere might not work so well, because the exhaust pressure can push the gate open and not give a stable boost pressure.

If you use CO2 (or some other pressure source), you can force the waste gate closed to seal the wastegate tight. The CO2 just augments the spring. With CO2, the system uses less CO2 and has much better control with a dual valve system, where one valve adds dome pressure and the other bleeds it off.

I use CO2 with dual solenoids (bleed and charge) to the dome and a 12 psi spring. That way I can dial any boost I like over 12 psi. It goes a long time on a bottle at the track. I've gone almost a season now and still have almost full CO2 pressure.
 

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There are several ways to run gate control solenoids or pressure valves. In a car that is not a strip-only car, you really want to run a spring and just use the dome pressure (or leak off compressor sample pressure) to increase boost above the spring. Dual valves are always more stable unless it is a straight compressor sample bleed system (which often is not that stable anyway) where you just bleed off some compressor boost reference sample to trick the waste gate.

Waste gates tend to leak before reaching opening pressure. Simply bleeding the compressor sample signal off to atmosphere might not work so well, because the exhaust pressure can push the gate open and not give a stable boost pressure.

If you use CO2 (or some other pressure source), you can force the waste gate closed to seal the wastegate tight. The CO2 just augments the spring. With CO2, the system uses less CO2 and has much better control with a dual valve system, where one valve adds dome pressure and the other bleeds it off.

I use CO2 with dual solenoids (bleed and charge) to the dome and a 12 psi spring. That way I can dial any boost I like over 12 psi. It goes a long time on a bottle at the track. I've gone almost a season now and still have almost full CO2 pressure.
The CO2 is definitely the way to go if you can afford to. It's so consistent and steady compared to compressor signal. I bought my friend a CO2 setup for his turbo car as a wedding gift and it included a 5lb bottle. He street drove and strip drove it for like a year or more and never needed a CO2 refill
 
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