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Discussion Starter #1
I don't have a way to punch out a hole bigger than 3/8npt or a tap bigger than 3/8npt. I was trying to use a 3/8 to -8 adapter, but it wasn't draining properly. I got to thinking since I have a y block laying around why no use it and add another 3/8 hole to my oil pan. Any problems with this?
 

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Formerly eades5.0
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Why not buy the right tools insteada trying to work with what you have?
Do a single -10 drain and be done.....

I guess your idea could work, but I normnally go off what I know works to save headaches later on.

Or pull the pan as a last resort and have it welded on, if it's goober'd.
 

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You are better off buying a 1/2" NPT Tap and doing it right the first time. You can then get a -10 to 1/2" NPT plug or -8 to 1/2" NPT plug to suit your needs. It is also important that the drain line does not have a bunch of turns and that none of the line goes above itself (I hope that makes sense). Also, where did you tap your pan? It is possible that you didn't tap it high enough, therefore causing the oil to not drain properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I tapped it where everybody does. Like Vortech explains.
 

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pull that pan off and get it welded. dont make the mistake i did and keep fooling with it over months and months. all the while the car slowly leaking oil and eventually covered the entire underside of my car. im still cleaning oil out from under there over a year later...get a -10 bung from jegs then weld it and forget about it
 

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I cut a hole in mine with a hole saw not using the center drill bit. Dont quite cut all the way through so you dont get shavings in the pan. Stop drilling just before it breaks through, then using a screwdriver pry out the piece and break it off using pliers. Then what i did is weld a bung on without pulling the pan, not sure why everyone thinks you have to pull the pan to weld on a bung??? If you can reach all the way around with your welding torch or mig welder then I dont see the need to pull the pan. After the bung is on you can use a nipple of your liking.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I wil try a -10 adapter with a 1/2 hole in the pan. No leaks from my fitting I used hi temp copper rtv and I "flared" my hole right.
 

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I cut a hole in mine with a hole saw not using the center drill bit. Dont quite cut all the way through so you dont get shavings in the pan. Stop drilling just before it breaks through, then using a screwdriver pry out the piece and break it off using pliers. Then what i did is weld a bung on without pulling the pan, not sure why everyone thinks you have to pull the pan to weld on a bung??? If you can reach all the way around with your welding torch or mig welder then I dont see the need to pull the pan. After the bung is on you can use a nipple of your liking.
Its not that you can't get a bead around the fitting, its the fumes that can ignite and blow up in your face. Yes it can and does happen.
 

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you'll be fine. i ran a 10AN from the turbo into dual 6ANs on my last setup and it worked fine. just make sure you have a good breather/vemt setup so the motor can breathe. i ran an 8AN line of each valve cover into a catch can. pk
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
you'll be fine. i ran a 10AN from the turbo into dual 6ANs on my last setup and it worked fine. just make sure you have a good breather/vemt setup so the motor can breathe. i ran an 8AN line of each valve cover into a catch can. pk
I have a 5/8 line coming off each valve cover into a moroso catch can that drains to the other side of the pan.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got what I was looking for on TTF. Apparently a 3/8 to -10 adapter has close to the same ID.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I scratched the dual drain idea....my buddy found a 1/2" punch and tap in his tool box so I'm gonna try to run -12.
 
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