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Discussion Starter #1
ok i think i have a problem with weight transfer at the track. this is my setup and im looking for opinions and thoughts. i have a 3000lbs 1968 mustang:

drivetrain

-302 bored 30 over

-trick flow aluminum head

-8" 4:11 posi rear end

-msd ignition

-air gap intake

-gear drive

-motor all blue printed and blanced

-holley double pumper carb

-holley fuel pump

-world class t-5 tranny

-shorty headers with 2 chamber flows dumped



suspension: pretty damn stiff...



-620 front coils

-grab atrack shock front & rear

-5 1/2 mid eye leaf springs

-1 1/2" front sway bar

-rear sway bar

-17" torque thrust 245/40/17 the front and 245/45/17 nitto drags in the rear.

-stupid slapper bars..



went to the track last wed. and was launching around 2800rpm. my 60ft was 2.0, 13.6 @ 104 mph.



this car motor should be in the 13 flat range how can i get there?? please give me some suggestions: power or suspension?



thanks
 

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Lose the front sway bar, 6cyl springs and loose shocks on the front. Are the slappers touching the spring eye? If not adjust them so they are. try a 15' M/T Drag radial or ET Street. On my Fox car I was ETing 12.80's @ 103 3140 race weight
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ive been hearing that alot... lose the front sway bar... can i just unbolt it from the lower control arms and race with it still attached to the frame? i have to drive 45 mins to get to the track so i have to keep it streetable with shocks... :( damn i need a car trailer... i was thinking of getting some drag springs and shocks... think this will make a nice difference?
 

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you'll be fine driving it w/o a front swaybar, just take it easy in on turns and take a little extra time to slow down until you're used to ti
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i will give it a try..thanks.. i think im going to put some subframe connectors on first then take the sway bar off and drive take it for a cruise to get the feel.
 

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You can just unhook the sway bar when you race and attach it for the street. Not too hard to do. Those 620's hurt weight transfer big time, 6 cyl springs would be better for the strip. You can get adjustable front shocks. Slapper bars aren't ideal, but can be made to work. I'd suggesrt the type that have a bar that mounts under the spring shackle and attach to a bracket under the spring eye, not sure of the name but caltrack comes to mind. Or find a used set of South Side lift bars.

Was the car spinning? Those short sidewall tires look good, but may be too stiff to absorb the shock of a clutch dump. To get your 60's down, you'll probably have to come out harder and/or go to a lower gear (4.30, 4.56). It's tough when you have to compromise street ability with track performance, one or the other or most usually both suffer.
 

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I went 1.60's with slapper bars, so they will work fine. However, Caltracs work much better. (its what I have now) Here is a vid of how its leaving now, it works very well. I wouldn't worry about your rear setup till you have more power. Should be just fine. Plus the Caltracs on the street can be pretty noisy compared to the Traction Bars.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Redding-Drag-Strip_189295.htm

I would just do the 6 cyl springs, some 90/10 shocks and unbolt or remove the sway bar.



I have a set of Summit 90/10s that new are 26.00 each. Ill sell them to ya for 30 shipped for both. (I went with the Calvert ones, didn't really make a lot of difference)
 

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The 6 cyl ones, those would be fine if you had a BBF in it.

That track was so slick that night, 59 degrees out and 57 degree dew point.

Universal No
Make FORD
Model MUSTANG
Beginning Year 1967
Ending Year 1970
Engine Type V8
Engine Family Ford big block FE
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Cool thanks... i think im gonna start there... remove the sway bar at the track, put some 6cy coils in, front drag shock and rear drag shocks. i will keep the slapper bars on for my first time out and then go with the cal traks... i'm worried about my front end smacking my front tires and cutting them up.. i rolled the wheel wells so i guess i can only hope they will fit..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
oh.... 1" higher.. do u think it would hurt it to cut a little out of the 6 cyl coils?
 

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I dunno, I plan to do mine next yr to test it, but since only one race for me is left it will have to wait.

On your setup, I doubt it would hurt/help anything though. If you start getting into the low 11's high 10's then I could maybe see it. It will give it more suspension travel so it could actually help. Too many factors.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Cool.. i still want it to look decent.. i only make it to the track like 4 times a year... its my weekend warrior car..

 

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So what psi were the nittos at?

Drag radials + stick = poor 60ft.

You are going to be limited until you replace that 8" with a 9"

Slicks and a stick leaving at 3000+ RPM will break an axle in a hurry.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
i dropped the nittos down to 18psi and then to 12 psi. yeah my weak link is
8" rear end. the guy who built it said it would support 400 hp. guess i will prove him wrong when it breaks.... i upgraded to the stronger 3rd member and stronger posi unit... down the road if i end up upgrading to more power, its first on the list to be swapped out...
 

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The 8" 28 spline and 9" 28 spline factory axles are of equal size and strength. The weak link on the 8" is the pinion support and case. Have seen an 8" pinion forced right out the front of the case on a dead hooking car.

You'll gain strength with the 9" case and if you upgrade to 31 spline or larger axles. You'll lose some useable horsepower turning the 9" and will gain a little weight.

If you nail down what gear ratio you want, install an 8.8 with 9"axle bearing ends. You'll gain strength, stay about the same weight as the 8" and maybe gain back some lost horsepower because the 8.8 is more efficient than either the 8" or 9".

I went with a 9" because of it's strength, and I swap out the gears, depending on the 1/8 mile or 1/4 mile track. Alot easier and faster than an 8.8 although it takes more power to turnover.
 
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