A lockup converter (in D and OD) will be locked up with the inner input shaft. The lockup converters require a 2 peice input shaft. (inner and outer) The inner shaft engauges for lockup. According to some companies, lockup takes away the torque multiplication of the transmission and with lots of power, you will more than likely break the input shaft.
A non lockup converter can use a 2 peice input shaft or a 1-peice. The one peice is stronger and is always engauged. The non lockup unit will be slipping some and when you give the car gas the rpm's will jump about 200rpm or so until the converter catches. With a lockup converter, the converter will not jump.
I think I have explained this right. I think.
If anyone wants to correct any of this, feel free to.
About the stall speed. It all depends on what the car will be used for and what modifications you have done. For a mildy modified street car, I would say anywhere from 2400 to 3000 stall.
Ask around and usualy whoever you get the converter from should know their stuff (unless its uncle bob's converter shack). They should give you some advice as to what stall to go with.
Hope this helps some.
by the way, its always a good idea to install a transmission cooler and a trans temp gauge.
hiya, dumb question, but where would i go about getting a trans temp gauge? i haven't really seen these advertised, but then again i haven't been paying attention... but i'm planning on getting a shift kit and torque converter soon, so it'd be a good thing to have i imagine
after the trannys ive been thru, go with the non lockup, unless you get the 1piece and matched converter like an art-carr. manually shifting 1-2-1 really puts the hurt on that shaft and its hard to get a piece of that shaft out of a converter too..
5ohMike: Autometer makes a whole bunch of gauges including trans temp gauges. You can pick them up at just about any race/hot rod/mustang shop. Look in a mustang magazine and ill bet there is at least 5 companies who carry autometer gauges.
Also, I agree with Greg lawrence. If your making more power than stock and you are wanting some firm tire chirping shifts, ide say get a 1-peice input shaft, (which requires a non lockup converter), but you can still run it on the street with a slight drop in MPG. Maybe 2-3 mpg loss.
in my 93GT I went with the 1 piece input shaft and the 2800 Stallion stall from Precision Industries. With 4.10s and the usual mods I was quite happy with the performance out of my AOD. I had a good rebuild done on it, added the lentech valvebody, a trans glo shift kit, and had the brass tv cable guide put in. Always responsive, very streetable, and produced a much better automatic. Add the nitrous and very consistent, not to mention a lot quicker than you would think...lol.
Same here i recently got a performance automatic street strip trans. 10 inch stall and valvebody. My freind has a 89lx 5spd. His car feels sooooo fast when he drive bangin the gears and what not. Well we both went to the track i thought he would run a secound faster then me. GUess what we ran the same time both of us on slicks and he didnt mess up. Get a stall and a shift kit and you will be right there with a 5spd if not beating them for those who cant drive a 5psd. Only problem you really gotta face is if a stick has a good race tranny and slicks and he launches at 4500 and he is a good driver watch out! My point is automatic man not seem fast as a stick but it will be right there with it with a stall and shiftkit. My times are very consistent and will aslo be when i intall the nitrous. I think if i had a stick i would kill myself. IM pretty nuts with my auto gettting sidewayz and stuff. Especially in the rain forget about it.
thx black, i've heard of autometer guages of course, but since i don't have any power adders i never really payed much attention to their ads... would i even need one do you think? i'm planning on putting in a shift kit and a converter with a slightly higher stall speed, prolly around 2400.
Just put a B&M 2500 non-lockup in my GT. Wow, it's so much more driveable now. I really like the fact that when in 3rd gear, it revs up a little and pulls harder at half throttle. Before, with the lockup, it would just bog the engine down. Only wish I had 4.10 gears to go with it so I could keep the rpm's over 2500 while cruising around town.
First step of rebuilding my engine is picking pistons. I plan on going .030 over stock block, stock crank, stock rods. the goal is either going to be doing trick flow 170 fast as cast heads, or 190 11R's. Don't want to invest the money into stroking or going any bigger on the heads. just looking...
Installed the timing chain with the crank key at the 12 o'clock position and timing gear at the 6 o'clock, dot to dot on #1 compression stroke. My question which I can't seem to find in videos or documentation is when I find TDC on the degree wheel will this be this same position or will it be...
Can anyone identify this 351W?
Numbered XE, odd grooves on block face,
Appears to have siamesed liners, .+030",
4 bolt mains
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Rare? or just junk?
New build going on
Stock block non roller
Flat top pistons
I plan on using my afr 195 heads with afr 8017 springs. I know they came with 8019 but I swapped them out to another set of heads. I had the 8017 on the shelf new take off.
Plan on using link...
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