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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I took a spin in the mustang today and noticed the temp was creeping up to 210 degrees at a stoplight. So I took it home (it never got above 210), and the fan never came on.

I have a taurus fan which is controlled by an FK35 controller from delta current control. I've had it for around 10 years or so, and never really had an issue. I did notice that the red wire on the temp sensor was broken, right where it connects to the blue connector, which I believe is the source of my problem.

My question can I repair this or do I need to buy a replacement temp sensor wire. I tried looking on the dc control website but didn't see where I could buy a replacement. Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I sent an email to brian asking him about this and he told me the red wire isn't used... is there an easy way to check if its the controller or fan?? Please forgive me as I'm still learning about electronics. Thanks
 

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Hopefully, you have the Air Conditioner (AC) wire hooked up.

If you do, just turn on the Air Conditioner, and make sure that the Air Conditioner compressor is cycling and you're getting cool air.
The fan should run at ~50%.

You can take a DVM (digital volt meter), or a 12v light, and connect the ends to:
1) The DCC positive fan-output
2) Ground.

Or, if you have a fan connector, probe there.

The voltmeter will show ~~~3v-9v.
An automotive test light bulb will be "dim", but visibly on.

Note: An "analog" voltmeter (gauge with needle) may or may not respond fast enough to show voltage with an ~50% PWM rate.
PWM: Pulse Width Modulation - turn the voltage on/off quickly and many times a second.



Looks like the Air-Conditioner (AC) input is on pin 15.

The FK60 DCC unit will keep the fan at ~10% of the under-drive jumper (pins 13 & 14) is installed, DK3560 Install .
I'm not sure is the FK35 units have the fans run at ~10% if the under-drive jumper is installed.



If you do not have the Air Conditioner (AC) input hooked up, then connect a wire to that terminal and then to +12v. To be safe, connect it through a 1-amp fuse.
Iirc, you can use an electronic jumper wire to connect to the DCC terminals. If the jumper wire connector is too big, then lightly squeeze it a little to close it a little. :)
Fwiw, jumper wires:
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/1-Pin-Female-Breadboard-Jumper-Arduino/dp/B00SWO0GBE/[/ame]

40x 1-Pin Female to Female Breadboard Jumper Wire 20cm for Arduino
Price: $5.70

(Different picture from the Amazon product link, but same idea :))




From:
FK35 Install
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Control unit wiring

Plug the mounted sensor into pins 1, 2 of the control unit.

Using the supplied wiring loom, secure one connectored end of the red wire on the output terminal of the controller using one star washer and brass 6-32 hex nut. A snug fit is all that is needed (5-in-lb), Be careful not to overtighten. Route the wire to the positive fan terminal, cut and trim the wire and install the female fastconnect. If needed, install the male fastconnects to the fan input wires.

Place one connectored end of the black wire on the GND terminal of the controller. Route the wire to the negative fan terminal, cut and trim the wire and install the female fastconnect. Connect the fan.

Place the connectored end of the remaining black wire on the GND terminal of the controller and secure both wires with one star washer and 6-32 brass hex nut. Route the wire to the negative battery terminal. Attach the 5/16 ring terminal and connect to the negative battery terminal.

Place the connectored end of the remaining red wire on the input terminal of the controller and secure the wire with one star washer and brass 6-32 hex nut. Route the wire to the positive battery terminal. Attach the fusible link and connect to the positive battery terminal. Do not connect to the starter end of the battery cable or to the alternator. Use the supplied wire hold downs, along with two self tapping screws and flat washers to secure the wires.


INSERTING A JUMPER ACROSS PINS 11 and 12 WILL DAMAGE THE CONTROL UNIT




Auxiliary wiring

Ignition input
For continued cooling after engine shut-off, connect the yellow ignition input wire of the harness to the unit and to any 12 V source. If an Immediate shut off is required, connect the yellow ignition input wire of the harness to the unit and to any source that is 12 V whenever the the ignition is on.


AC input
If the vehicle has air conditioning and a factory installed electric fan, connect the blue AC input wire of the harness to the unit and to the positive terminal of the OEM fan wiring harness. If the vehicle has air conditioning and originally came with a mechanical fan, connect the blue AC input wire of the harness to the air conditioning compressor input.

==================



Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the detailed info... I do not have the AC wire hooked up (no AC in the car), so what you're saying is that I should use a jumper from pin 15 of the controller to 12v and turn the key on and if the controller is good, it should turn the fan on, correct??
 

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Thanks for the detailed info... I do not have the AC wire hooked up (no AC in the car), so what you're saying is that I should use a jumper from pin 15 of the controller to 12v and turn the key on and if the controller is good, it should turn the fan on, correct??
Correct. :)
 

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...Looks like the Air-Conditioner (AC) input is on pin 15...
A/C Input (blue wire) in on Pin 13
Ignition Input (yellow wire) is on Pin 15

Place a jumper between those 2 pins & turn ignition on. Fan should come on at 50% speed.

If it doesn't, it could be the fan or the controller. You can test the fan by connecting it directly to the battery, polarity is not important, if reversed, it will rotate backwards, blowing air to the front.
 

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A/C Input (blue wire) in on Pin 13
Ignition Input (yellow wire) is on Pin 15


Looks like we're both wrong. :) Brian's cr*p documentation strikes again! :)

Those are wires that come out from the potted assembly.

See the picture below that I found through Google.
 

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Oh crap! I should have gone out to look at it. There is a way to force the fan on with a jumper, can't remember what it is. I think you jumper pins 1 & 2, but am not sure.

Went out to test it & that's what it is, remove temp probe connector & jumper pins 1 & 2.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Unfortunately pin # 2 has broken off so I have the temp probe connector on pins 3 & 5 I believe, although not exactly sure because it was so long ago. Brian Baskin and I have been emailing back and forth yesterday (returned all my emails very quickly btw), and first he wanted me to connect the blue wire to 12v and check if the fan turned on, which it didn't. Then he had said to connect the yellow wire from the unit to a 12v source. He recommended that even though not necessary, it should be connected, especially when the 16 pin connector gets enough dirt in it. That is what I'll do next, because I ran out of time this weekend. I'll post back again with an update once I do this.
 

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Time to test the fan without the controller. Disconnect fan negative & positive from controller & connect them to the battery long enough to see if the fan comes on.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sorry I forgot to mention that I did test the fan and it works fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So I finally got around to connecting the yellow wire of the unit to the input lug, as suggested by brian... No such luck. I'll need to email him as to what the next step should be.
 

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My temp probe for my FK35 controller got messed up. Does DC Control sell replacement probe?
Yes, email Brian from the same email account that you bought the DCC controller. That's the main way he filters his email.


Fwiw, in *REAL LIFE*, maybe at best 1%-5% of the people that ask questions BEFORE they buy a product actually buy the product. So, people like Brian, that have a real-life and a real full-time job, aren't going to take the time to respond to the general non paying customers that ask him stuff.
If people don't like that, then buy something else!

Btw, the "tech support" from big name companies is usually just a cut and paste of what's on their web-site, and done by some "minimum wage moron".

Good Luck!
 

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Temp probe

I got the controller from a private party, and found that the probe is no good. I guess I'll find Brian's (DC CONTROL) phone number and give it a shot. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update: still haven't been able to get the fan to work - anyone have any suggestions?? I removed the sensor probe out of the radiator and put it back in another spot, checked grounds... nothing. I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on buying another dcc unit.
 

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Send it back to Brain & he'll tell you if it works or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Didn't realize I could do that. Thanks I'll keep that in mind.
Has anyone ever sent their unit back to brian to have him check it out??
 
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