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Indo-Canuck-Yankee
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Discussion Starter #1
Rolled the ol' 5.0L out of the garage the other day into 110*F ambient heat. Runs great! With the A/C on and driving through city traffic, the engine is approaching 230*F coolant temperature, so clearly the old Ford Motorsport radiator is not cutting it. If I turn the A/C off, I'm all good... the temperatures quickly dwindle down to the 180-190*F range.

Seems as if the Ford Racing rad has simply just not got enough cooling capacity. Is it time for a new radiator? I see that Griffin is the only one that's rocking 1.25" tubes in a 2-row rad, making them a strong contender. Obviously, being supercharged doesn't help with the heat issue.
 

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Indo-Canuck-Yankee
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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, I've had the core rodded out by Performance Radiator several years back. It's not seen enough mileage to warrant doing it again. That certainly helped a little bit, though. I've straightened all the fins out using a rad comb and I am using Redline Water Wetter too. It's got an Edelbrock aluminum water pump, dual Contour fans properly shrouding the whole back of the rad, wiring all done properly, 180*F thermostat, all the stock air guides in place, no oil cooler.
 

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The stock T-stat is a 195? I had better cooling control with the factory Thermostat.Otherwise with that kind of heat, the Thermostat is constantly open so there's no time for the water to cool.
 

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Yeah, I've had the core rodded out by Performance Radiator several years back. It's not seen enough mileage to warrant doing it again. That certainly helped a little bit, though. I've straightened all the fins out using a rad comb and I am using Redline Water Wetter too. It's got an Edelbrock aluminum water pump, dual Contour fans properly shrouding the whole back of the rad, wiring all done properly, 180*F thermostat, all the stock air guides in place, no oil cooler.
Have you blown out the 3 lbs of sand that is stuck on the outside, and the condenser?
 

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I don't know whether to laugh or be sad every time time I read the utter nonsense about water moving too much and the "water has no time to cool".

You could guess at the problem or take some temperature readings, but the issue has to be radiator BTU capacity, something is restricted or dirty, or you just are not moving enough water to get the heat out.

If the radiator cold tank is too hot, then the radiator heat exchange or air flow is inadequate.

If the radiator outlet tank is 30F or so below your target engine temperature and the engine outlet is too hot, then you are not moving enough water.

The slower you let the water move, the hotter then engine will get and the cooler the radiator will be, but this because heat is not moving out of the engine. The only time slowing water can ever cool the engine better is if the water is moving so fast something is going into turbulent flow or going into cavitation, and this is pretty darned rare. It would take a huge pump flow to do that.
 

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Indo-Canuck-Yankee
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Discussion Starter #11
I am running dual Contour fans, both EEC-IV controlled at staggered temperatures and bolstered electrical to support them. I don't get more than 0.1V voltage drop anywhere in the electrical system.

I guess I'll run some tests and check the temperatures of the end tanks and hoses. I'll make some measurements with the car at hot idle with the A/C off and another with the A/C on once it starts to spiral into overheat, post it up here when done.
 

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I don't know whether to laugh or be sad every time time I read the utter nonsense about water moving too much and the "water has no time to cool"
You aren't the only one. I have completely removed the thermostat from several cars in my years of misadventures and not once has any of them ever run hotter. Many many times they have never even got up to operating temp no matter how much they are driven.
 
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