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Discussion Starter #1
I put a set of upr coilovers on the back of my 04 mustang a couple weeks back. Picked them up used on corral for a good price. The kit was basically an outer machined sleeve put over a shock with a spherical hat to hold the top of the spring.

The install was pretty straightforward and uneventful. Went ahead and adjusted the ride height in the rear to make my lower control arm the same height at the front and rear bolt, to make it parallel with the ground. It was all good up to this point, until I stepped back and checked my handiwork. The spring itself was compressed from a 10” spring down to around 5 3/4” length. Also, I had about 2” clearance from the bottom sleeve to the top spring hat. Basically I had 2” travel before it bottoms out.

After talking to the tech guys at upr, they keep insisting the spring rate I chose is too soft. If I put another spring rate on there, and lower it back down, essentially I’ll have the same 2” travel, just takes more weight to compress that distance.

Question is, what do I do? Trash these coilover sleeve deals and go with a “real” coilover?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hmmm, I’ll have to pull the cone and see if I can cut off a section on top. 2” travel just won’t cut it. This time when I take the whole thing apart, I’m going to have to measure everything disassembled. Seems I have a fox body strange shock on it based on the part number.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Another rained out weekend at the track, but I did get to see 2 other rear coilover setups on new edge mustangs. There doesn’t seem to be a much static distance between the top of the spring and bottom of the shock body. With all this rain, I’m just racking my brain to see what will happen!

I guess I’m worried about the squat, sure, if the car hits a pothole with a light spring, it will bottom out, but also with the valving of the shock dialed in, it may not. The launch, as I’ve done some research, is not about squatting to transfer the weight, but body/wheel separation, so the 2” shouldn’t be an issue as I’m pushing the weight of the vehicle down on the tires. Time will tell!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Finally got around to looking at these coilovers again. Drop brackets and shortening the top hat are out unless I go to a 12” 110lb spring instead of 10” 110lb. Basically, by shortening the hat or dropping the bracket I’ll have to spin the collar upwards to accommodate the new found clearance, and I only have about 3/4” of thread left to raise the spring. By getting the longer spring, I should be able to drop the spring downwards with the drop bracket or shorter hat. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Was able to drop the bracket and gained another 1/2” without changing springs. I now have 2 1/2” gap between the top hat and bottom sleeve. I also got to measure 2 other cars in my local area today with similar setups, they didn’t seem to have much travel either, but made comments on how stiff their coilover shocks are setup. I’m not looking for rock bouncer travel, just thought there would be more than what I have.
 

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Was able to drop the bracket and gained another 1/2” without changing springs. I now have 2 1/2” gap between the top hat and bottom sleeve. I also got to measure 2 other cars in my local area today with similar setups, they didn’t seem to have much travel either, but made comments on how stiff their coilover shocks are setup. I’m not looking for rock bouncer travel, just thought there would be more than what I have.
Check the recommended ride height for your shock with manufacturer. They should give you the preferred shock height measurement. Start there. For my Vikings it is 14.5" from eye to eye. We put my top mount high enough up to all the most range of adjustment.

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