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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I got the codes pulled and its a 0156, Bank 2, sensor 2 that is indicated to have gone bad. I have the bassani o/r x pipe and the car and sensors have 22k miles on them of which 20K was stock miles with cats. I also have about 90 or so miles on dallas mustang MILS. Whick is more likely? The rear o2 sensor(coloration light to dark brown) Bank 2 went bad or the MIL went bad? I know most here say MILs are plug and pray, but I dont see how something that simple as the MIL eliminator could go bad. I only drive on sunny days so they have never seen water either. Should I pop 70 bucks on the rear sensor since the code puller only singled that one or should I get new MILS.? Any thoughts? Any ways to tell my multimeter is wacky and reads 12 volts as 19 anyways so please please ....begging ....groveling...sniveling
 

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Dont go spending more money on an O2 sensor. Swap the Mil's from side to side and see if the code goes to P136. If it does then its the Passenger side Mil thats the problem. If it stays P156 then its the O2 sensor. Post back what you find and we'll help.

Also, the FIRST thing to do is inspect all wiring, make sure the O2's are tight, make sure the Mil's are properly snapped into the wiring (give them each a tug...) and make sure you have no exhaust leaks. And if you bent them Mil's too much while installing them then you probably broke it...
 

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I hear about MIL eliminators going bad all the time. I agree that you should swap them to see if it changes sides, but I'd bet it is the MIL eliminator.

Chris
 

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Chris98vobra said:
I hear about MIL eliminators going bad all the time...
Hey Dammit! Be nice! That's my design! ;)

96 Tang, as Chris said the Mil's could have a problem so, again, be sure to do the above tests before you spend any money.
 

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Heh...sorry, buddy! I built some myself and had one die. Nice design that has helped a bunch of guys. Nothing personal intended.:)
 

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not a problem dude... I was just joking with you too. BUT... gotta give credit where credit is due, the circuit is mine, but the idea belongs to Chris Wesley.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry I have the dallas mustang POS parts? I dont have the car up at the moment as it was to late to make it to autozone to get the codes pulled so i will switch them tomorrow or thursday if I can? I remember one side having tabs that had to be shaved so do you think before I go out there and jack it up that I will be able to cross fit them back and forth. I am getting the code reader from auterra for my palm soon, just have to get wife to buge more since I have spend about 4G in last 3 months
 

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Just take a set of diagonal cutters with you if the tabs are in the way. That should be good enough and you can clean it up later.

96 Tang said:
Sorry I have the dallas mustang POS parts?
dude... that hurt me :( those are the ones I designed...

Oh well post back what you find and I'll still help, even though you AND Chris have both shattered my very fragile ego... ( hehe... j/k ;) )
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Lets see hmmm. "Open Mouth , Insert Foot" :eek: that about sums it up. So why do I keep hearing they fail 50% of the time on the boards. I assume they are just using a resister? I wish I new. I took good care to make sure they were plugged in tight , I didnt bend them and I tied them alway from any heat. Can you tell me why these products are exibiting this behavior. To me it looks like such a simple piece I just dont understand why this is happening?
 

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You all have to realize that in 49.5% of the 50% that APPEAR to go bad, if we test the MIL Eliminators, there is absolutely nothing wrong with them, and they would do their job if they could.

If your Rear o2 sensors aren't up to snuff, you have a fat exhaust leak, or don't connect the MIL Eliminators properly, they won't work.

MIL Eliminators need a heathly signal from the rear o2 sensor to work, and the above variables will cause them not to work as they should. There is nothing wrong with the electronics, they are merely an electronic filter that takes care of your issues in a properly working system.

I wrote a FAQ on our larger website. If you all can find the sucker, there is some good reading towards the bottom of the MIL Eliminator technical FAQ.

Our product differs from DMP merely by design, but the functionality is the same.

P.S. Give 'em all you got Willie...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No exhaust leaks for sure, No switched 02s in wrong place, and the o2s were handeled with utmost care when being moved over. They only have 22k miles on them and are fairly clean. I will try the cleaner you recommend through email and try the swap tommorow. These are so much more sensetive than my old cars o2s
 

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Like Dan said, the Mil's have been getting a bad rap in my opinion, but they could fail (and have as Chris has pointed out...). So again just check it out and post back and we'll figure it out.
 

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I am posting to let you know my story....

I put mine on(dallas mustang) and the light came on and I reset 3 times( days apart) and after light came on 4th time i said screw it....
then the light turned off while I was driving and has stayed off for 2 months........


wierd.....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok guys, I changed the MIL Eliminators from side to side and had the codes pulled. No matter which side I put them on it always comes up 0156. Bank 2 Sensor 2. I know thats after the cats, but which side it bank 2. No one in town like autozoneout or advanced auto had them in stock and they were on back order. Which side is bank two???? The only one the guy could get by saturday was the passenger side rear?? Im guessing with my luck lately that i am needing the driver side rear huh:eek:
 

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Bank2 is drivers side.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That figures!!! Next and final question. Would you agree since i changed the MILs side to side and still got the same code its really safe to assume my MILs are ok and its just the 02 sensor? Any of you guys can have one to me by monday for 70 bucks? LOL They must suck if they are on backorder that much
 

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Dude... order a generic from www.oxygensensors.com or something like that and be done with it. If the tabs dont line up, just cut or grind them off. They are just O2 sensors like the front which switch at 14.7:1 A/F ratio just like the front.
First I must say thats just my opinion. Ford actually lists different part numbers for the fronts and each rear. I believe the actual O2 sensor is the same, but RANDY STICHCOMB and I got into a debate about it. Randy thinks they are different. I wont attack Randy as I know he's a good guy, been good to the people on this board, and really believes he's right. Since I believe I'm right too I just agree to disagree and respect his opinion. Just wanted you to have the full story from two informed sources...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
:D :p ;) :cool:

Got my new rear bank 2 sensor in and drove the same route i have before and the check light didnt come on, then I kept driving and driving and driving and no light! I love you guys..LOL!!!!!! Saved me alot of frustration on getting this figured out. Now I can feel good about runnin gmy nitrous again at WFC5:evil:
 
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