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Discussion Starter #1
I did a search and did not find too much info on what clutch people are using for track events/road racing. I recently took my 00 gt out for its first track day and experienced significant clutch slippage in 3rd gear late in the session. The clutch must of been heating up, I was on a tight 1.3 mile course with lots of shifting between 2nd & 3rd. I was thinking about upgrading to a centerforce dual friction. Has anyone used these in road race car? How do they hold up? The only performance mods my car has is the basic exhaust and intake.
 

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The clutch should be fine, I would look at other things like your shifting style or maybe a mechanial issue like a cluth cable out of adjustment. I have had the same 93 Cobra clutch and pressure plate in my LX since 1996 (100K miles, 80+ track days and 3 engines)...and stock quadrant.
 

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I'm using a simple SPEC Stage 1 clutch. Obviously if your car is over powering your clutch, then of course you need "something". Determine your power level, a pick a corresponding level clutch.

I'm a big fan of soft disc clutches. They tend to cover up alot of ill-rev matching skills. I find this especially helpful with a torque arm euipped car. Nothing like down shifting and have your rear end give the ever confidence inspiring bounce if you don't let out the clutch just right.
 

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Overpowering a stock clutch with a stock GT with exhaust and a CAI? Doubtful. My LX with 300 rwhp will still chirp 3rd gear. My guess is maybe he might be riding the clutch pedal.
 

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Overpowering a stock clutch with a stock GT with exhaust and a CAI? Doubtful. My LX with 300 rwhp will still chirp 3rd gear. My guess is maybe he might be riding the clutch pedal.
My fault. I didn't read his last statement. I'll second your post entirely, then. My stock one had NO problems what so ever. And it's a nitrous/drag tire car as well.
 

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Nice screen name spencer ...


does that car still have the stock clutch ??

the centerforce DF is a great piece .. soo are spec units ... they have great lite pedal effort unlike the king cobra units ...

if your gonna swap it ... remember to replace the cable/quadrant and opt for the firewall adjuster ... it makes life a little easier
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey Derrick,

The car had a replacement clutch, whoever replaced it left out one of the top trans bolts and sheared off one of the pressure plate bolts on the flywheel. Anyway the clutch looked fine, it was not slipping due to wear. All I can think of is that the clutch installed is some cheapo replacement unit that is not made to take the abuse that even a OEM unit might handle?

Its not my driving style, I do not ride the clutch when driving.

I have a max motorsports firewall adjuster, quad, and new clutch cable. I was using to change the height of the clutch pedal because because my knee was hitting the steering wheel in the stock position. I had adjusted perfect to where the engaugement was in the middle of the pedal travel.

I think I am going to go with the centerforce
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Im not sold on lightweight flywheels, Ill probably stick with steel. The stock flywheel has a bolt sheared in it, and I have to get it resurfaced so I might save my self some trouble and just buy a new steel unit.
 

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I went with a Centerforce clutch 6 months ago as well as an aluminum flywheel and they are both fantastic. The clutch has the same pedal pressure as stock but grabs way harder although it's definitely not an on off switch and is actually very easy and buttery smooth to slip. The aluminum flywheel is great too, the motor winds up so much faster making rev matching a breeze and it carries a lot less inertia on hard shifts so when coming out of corners it allows me to shift faster without sending the rear tires up in smoke.
 

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I'd say get over your fear of aluminum flywheels. I wish I had read and heard everything I've read now BEFORE I got a steel flywheel. Consensus is, it's a gigantic amount of rotating mass you'll save, and you'll barely notice it operationally. FWIW Jack Hidley of maximum motorsports told me it's one of the first things he'd recommend for a track-bound mustang that's also driven on the street.
 

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King Cobra clutch on my car. 91k miles on a Fidanza aluminum flywheel as well. The AL flywheel is great. You shouldn't believe all the internet crap about them. I daily drove / OT'd the car for 85k miles with a HCI motor and AL flywheel. SoCal traffic and all. It's great. It probably took me about 2 weeks to get used to the feel of the flywheel and increase in power from the HCI. After that, I don't even notice it's there. 310rwhp 351rwtq. No power shifting. Sometimes I shift so slow that I have to blip the throttle to bring the revs up a little.
 

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Im not sold on lightweight flywheels, Ill probably stick with steel. The stock flywheel has a bolt sheared in it, and I have to get it resurfaced so I might save my self some trouble and just buy a new steel unit.
a light weight aluminum flywheel will do EVERYTHING better than a steel one on a race track or on the street in a V8 mustang.
 

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Stock clutch in my street/OT/HPDE mach1 works great.TOB is a little noisy.
 

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Yep my TOB is the one that came with the FRPP 11" 96-98 Cobra upgrade kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'd say get over your fear of aluminum flywheels. I wish I had read and heard everything I've read now BEFORE I got a steel flywheel. Consensus is, it's a gigantic amount of rotating mass you'll save, and you'll barely notice it operationally. FWIW Jack Hidley of maximum motorsports told me it's one of the first things he'd recommend for a track-bound mustang that's also driven on the street.
Ok that sounds very convincing, so maybe I should be looking for a alum flywheel as well. Are there any brands I should stay away from? Or should I just look for the best deal?

I also noticed that the tailshaft of the trans developed a small leak, anyone know of what seal I need to replace to remedy it?
 

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Darius,

Do you have any issue with the pedal effort of the RAM clutch? All of the RAM pressure plates we've tested had high to very high spring pressures.
 
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