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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm looking at buying some "true" slicks and need some advice/input on what to do/get. I'm looking at ET drags in either 28x9x15 or 28x10.5x15. I'm leaning toward the 28x9's because I can still use my current 15x8 5.5 bs draglites with them. If I go with the 28x10.5's, they suggest a 10" rim. Holy crap, those 15x10 6.5 bs wheels sure have gone up in price, around $500 for a pair.
If you can't tell, the 28x9 et drags are looking more appealing to me. Will they work for me? Any experience? How would the 28x10.5's work on my 8 rims?
 

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I have also ran a 28x10.5 ET Drag on a 15x8 with 5.5BS. It works just fine, but it looks bulky on the little wheel. It bulges out on the sides and just looks fat. For an 8" wheel I liked the looks of the 28x9 better and it hooked just as well. The only reason I put the 28x10.5 on it at the time was because I got a flat the night before race day and had to buy new tires on the morning of race day. All they had in stock was 28x10.5 tires. They would have had to order the 28x9 tire.

Now I have a 28x10.5 on a 15x10 wheel and the fit is much nicer. My wheels have 7.5 BS though and the car is mini-tubbed. So they tuck just inside the fender like a 28x9 would on a 15x8 with 5.5 BS.

Oh, one thing to make sure of if you put the 28x10.5 on is that your rear end is centered left to right. When I first put them on, mine was not centered and I didn't even realize it. One of my slicks was rubbing the inner fender pretty badly, so I had to make some adjustments at the track to accomodate for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks for the replys, keep them coming. I was just looking at the MT website and noticed something. The 28x9's use L8 compound and the 28x10's are M5 compound (same as ET streets). The L8 compound looks to be considerably softer than the M5. Possibly another plus for the 28x9's?

The width of the tire isn't a huge concern, I've already gone the Big F'n Hammer route, had 28x11.50 ET streets on these rims before, alot of bulge, no rub. Just concerned the 10" ET drags' contact patch would be compromised using a narrow 8" rim.
 

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i have never used the stiff side wall slicks but some people clam if your car is heavy it helps the car on the big end. i installed a set on my car but its not running now so i dont know how good they are but i have a friend that uses stiff and he says he would not go back to the soft side wall tire. also i never ran a tube in a slick so maybe some 1 will say something about that
 

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Are you sure you need to go to a 28"?? You currently have a 27" QTP?

Whats made you decide to go bigger VS. stepping down to a 26" Hoosier Slick?? The 26" hoosier slick i found works very well..

i personally couldnt go to a 28" (tried twice) cause it just screwed up my gearing & brought me thru the traps half way into 4th instead of at the top of 4th.. the 88" circumfrence my 28's had is just to much tire & knocks my gearing back to far..

I dont know if you've already worked that out or not but thought id mention it anyways.. I also have the 27" QTP's & i love em! To bad they dont make a 27" Slick!! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The 28x9 drags are actually 27.3" tall. right now the car crosses around 6700, I'd rather see it cross around 6400. I run a 9" rear, so gear swaps are pretty quick and easy. I already have other gear sets as well, so I wouldn't have to "buy" gears. I'm not giving up on the QTP's yet either. I've been having traction problems but since my last outing, I've adjusted the instant center, added some ballast to the rear to better distribute weight (car was 60% front heavy), and increased my front strut travel from ~2.5" to ~5". Gonna hit the track again soon to see if it helped.
 
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