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Discussion Starter #1
ok i got this motor from a buddy that works at a boneyard .. i stripped it down to the short block for my built ... i want to check a few rod bearings to see how they look motor has 70k on it .... question is if all looks good can i just retouque the rod bolts and be good ...or like the crank bolt ..is the rod bolts a streach bolt ?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
anyone?...doing this tomorrow....
 

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just check bearings and torque to specs. But make sure you put everything back where it came from. Maybe use plasti gauge to check clearances
 

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Formerly LSNotch
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The damper bolt is strecht type. The rod bolts are good but while you are there you should replace them since they are the weak link in the rotating assy.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The damper bolt is strecht type. The rod bolts are good but while you are there you should replace them since they are the weak link in the rotating assy.
i'd like to swap out the rod bolt for arp but .. dont wanna open up a can a warms .. one thing will lead to a nother .. next thing you know i have a completely rebuilt engine..lol...just done have the cash for that right now.. engines clean inside .. just want to check it out .
 

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Formerly LSNotch
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i'd like to swap out the rod bolt for arp but .. dont wanna open up a can a warms .. one thing will lead to a nother .. next thing you know i have a completely rebuilt engine..lol...just done have the cash for that right now.. engines clean inside .. just want to check it out .
It's just a matter of remove the OEM bolts are replace with the ARP ones. They are not press-fit, but I see what you are saying..."if it ain't broke don't fix it"

I just like to do things once. Keep us updated.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's just a matter of remove the OEM bolts are replace with the ARP ones. They are not press-fit, but I see what you are saying..."if it ain't broke don't fix it"
are you positive the rod bolts arent pressed in ? if thats the case i'll replace them .
 

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what motor is it???

if you switch to ARP you need to take the rods to the machine shop and have them resize the big end. if you dont then you will be doing this again
 

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Formerly LSNotch
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are you positive the rod bolts arent pressed in ? if thats the case i'll replace them .
Yes, they are bolts and not studs. Now, from what I've read the proper way to replace them is to do one bolt at a time to prevent the cap from shifting out of place. The LS rods are cracked cap type, so you want to make sure the cap stays in the exact same place they were. Also, there's always the misconception that just because you use better bolts you have to use higher torque values and that's where the problems usually start, with having a rod that needs to be resized because of the higher torque value used thus changing the clearance of the big end of the rod. IMO the main reason to replace the bolts it's for security, since they are stronger(more tensile strenght) so they will be a little harder to stretch or break under continuos hi-rpms.

If you feel better using the stock rod bolts, so be it. If you stay under 6.5k rpms then you may be safe. I would just ask Aidan for his opinion since he works with these engines on a daily basis.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I would just ask Aidan for his opinion since he works with these engines on a daily basis.
i sent him a message..thanks for your help
 
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