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changing IC with stock UCA's

2K views 13 replies 8 participants last post by  KEVIN$ 
#1 ·
well i used to be a drag whore but got bored of a single purpose car so now my car has a full MM handling setup with a PH bar..MM tells you to run stock UCAs but i miss my old baselinesuspenions UCAs i had in there and how the car would launch and not rise or sink and hook like a mofo

what is the best way to relocated my UCA mounting point while still utilizing the stock uppers? does anyone make a kit? i dont think i can use parts of Kevins kit

my LCAs are single adjustable(UMI) and if i could plot my suspension with my new points and figure out ULA length i have no problem modifying them to length

FWIW mickey DRs are my tire for when i want to go straight

thanks!
 
#3 ·
Whats the best way to move the arm down 1" ? My instant center is somewhere at my front bumber. My lower arms are perfect with about 1/8" pointing up and the pinion angle is good. I just need to move those upper arms somehow to bring back the IC towards the rear of the car.

Any body out there make parts to do this ?

thanks

s
 
#6 ·
typically you want your lower control arm horizontal to the ground...measure from the ground to the front bolt hole...then measure from the ground to the rear bolt hole...should be very close to the same distance from the ground...
 
#9 ·
#10 ·
I did lower the car's ride height so the lower control arms are 1/8" point up. The upper arms are the problem. I don't want to move the ride height anymore to thus change my IC. I did find these on Jegs web site that I might try. I was considering trying to make a pair but I found these.

What are your thoughts

http://www.jegs.com/p/Jegster/Jegst...ontrol-Arm-Mounts-for-Mustang/745029/10002/-1

thanks
s
Note: Do not use those Jeggs brackets they will bind up your suspension big time.

KS
 
#11 ·
Kevin can you give more of an explanation as to why these would bind? I searched a few other threads and you have posted the same response with no explanation. I don't understand how they would be much different from what you are offering, can you make me understand?

Is it the lack of support compared to the baseline brand? Is it the fact they utilize the stock length arms? Is it because they are a cheaper alternative to baseline's design?
 
#12 ·
Sure. The Jegs brackets use a tubular sleeve on the axle housing end that allows the control arm to pivot up/down, this is where the problem lies. It is not a spherical or rubber bushing.

Remember that the UCA's point outward, not straight ahead, when installed on the car.

Imagine the rearend sitting on jack stands in your garage with the UCA's installed onto the rearend so that the UCA's are pointing straight up in the air. Now measure the distance across both UCA's while they are pointing up.

Now pivot the UCA's so they point straight down. Take another measurement. If you're following this then you will notice that the two measurements are not the same b/c the UCA's will be farther apart while pointing up than they are while pointing down.

So, as the suspension moves up/down the front of the UCA's try to get farther/closer apart. BUT, with that steel sleeve on the rearend this prevents the UCA's from moving closer/farther apart UNLESS something bends. This is the binding I refer to. If the suspension DOES move up/down with these installed then SOMETHING IS FLEXING in order to allow the suspension to move up/down.

ks
 
#13 ·
Thank you for the explanation. That makes sense to me now. But I do have a follow up question. I understand the bind you are referring to and how spherical joint will eliminate that. My new question is in the design of the 4 link. The uppers are tilted out in order to keep the rear centered and fight against side to side motion. When you use a spherical joint does that add to some side to side motion? Do the upper arms do less of a job keeping the rear centered?

I'm trying to understand better to help decide on what I want for me. I already lean toward Baseline because of your products and that your local to me. I would prefer to keep my money local when I can. That's just not an option too often in the midwest. I do have aftermarket control arms now but I understand the problems with the instant center of the factory layout.

Thanks
 
#14 ·
....The uppers are tilted out in order to keep the rear centered and fight against side to side motion. When you use a spherical joint does that add to some side to side motion? Do the upper arms do less of a job keeping the rear centered?

Thanks
Using a spherical joint is the best of all worlds when wanting a rearend that doesn't move sideways due to lateral loading. The spherical joints have a perfectly round ball in the center that can spin/twist freely 360* in all directions when not installed. Once you install them then the direction is limited by the bolt that goes through them.

In the case above where the sleeved bushing doesn't allow the UCA's to move inward/outward as the suspension moves up/down the spherical bearings allow this movement freely. The only movement they 100% prevent while installed in an UCA is in compression and tension, ie the stretching/compression of the UCA. In other words they locate the rearend 100% laterally b/c the control arms cannot stretch/compress. If one of the bushings was rubber/poly then the rearend could move sideways.

ks
 
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