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Discussion Starter #1
No matter what I do my car will not hook. The best 60' I can get is a 1.80 Suspension is as follows

Front
Eibach drag springs
90/10 struts
strut tower bar
lower K member brace

Rear
Eibach drag springs
50/50 shock
South Side upper and lower arms
Battle Boxes
Spool
3.73 gears
27/10.50/15 ET Street bias slicks

I do a massive burn out and have tried air pressure from 9-14 psi with the same results every time. I have tried 2 step settings from 2500 all the way to 5000 and it spins everytime. The car will not hook no matter what. I am running 11.8s at 119mph off 1.8 short times spinning out of the hole. It is so frustrating because I know the car is capable of low 11s if it would hook. Anyone have any ideas or advise before I cut the rear end out of a really nice clean black notchback to back half it?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Might want to put some ET DRAGS and try that , alot people have no luck with the et streets , some do !
The biggest difference between the ET street and ET drag is the DOT number stamped on the sidewall. The ET drags are even available in the same M5 rubber compound that the ET streets have.
 

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Maybe change your pinion angle. I don't know that much about it, but a buddy of mine changed his several times before he hit the sweet spot. Good luck. BTW, what times are you running?
 

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i wonder if the front pops to quickly and the rear tops out and bounces unloading the tires and spinning? Do you have video?

theres a bunch of things i would try, adjustable front struts, double adjustable control arms and maybe different lower control arms in the stock location
 

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No matter what I do my car will not hook. The best 60' I can get is a 1.80 Suspension is as follows

Front
Eibach drag springs
90/10 struts
strut tower bar
lower K member brace

Rear
Eibach drag springs
50/50 shock
South Side upper and lower arms
Battle Boxes
Spool
3.73 gears
27/10.50/15 ET Street bias slicks

I do a massive burn out and have tried air pressure from 9-14 psi with the same results every time. I have tried 2 step settings from 2500 all the way to 5000 and it spins everytime. The car will not hook no matter what. I am running 11.8s at 119mph off 1.8 short times spinning out of the hole. It is so frustrating because I know the car is capable of low 11s if it would hook. Anyone have any ideas or advise before I cut the rear end out of a really nice clean black notchback to back half it?
Okay, I'm assuming the motor is a 427W, correct? If so, front heavy, this I know.

is it the stock k-member? don't need the strut tower brace or k-member brace, just adds weight. Use either 4 cyl front springs (cheap) or 14" 150 coilovers. Whats the car weigh? stock 5.0 rear springs work great. Do you have an rear anti rollbar or an air bag in the right rear? How is the launch, any noticeable car twist? Subframe connectors? Manual or automaic tranny? "Massive burnout" shouldn't be required, may just be overheating the tires and making them "greasy". Pinion angle could be a factor as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Maybe change your pinion angle. I don't know that much about it, but a buddy of mine changed his several times before he hit the sweet spot. Good luck. BTW, what times are you running?
You are the second person to mention this to me but I don't know much about it and I don't have adjustable arms. I might try some adjustable arms to see if I can get any results. The car is running 11.8s at 119mph 1.8 60'. If anyone has any info on pinion angle vs. hooking at the track help me out.

Ok why do you have a strut tower brace on a drag car?
It was on the car when I bought it. I had the motor out of the car and have not put it back on.

i wonder if the front pops to quickly and the rear tops out and bounces unloading the tires and spinning? Do you have video?

theres a bunch of things i would try, adjustable front struts, double adjustable control arms and maybe different lower control arms in the stock location
That makes sense. I don't have any video good enough to make that kind of call from it. I'll see if I can get some next time I go to the track.

Adjustable arms in the stock location sound like my next try at this, that way I can play with the pinion angle as well.

I have one pic of the launch. This pic is from a test and tune so ignore the red light:D The front is really high up for launch with a 2000 rpm 2 step and half throttle so the front may be popping to quickly. And this again is only a 1.8 60' in the pic. Maybe some 70/30 or adjustable struts to slow the front end lifting?

 

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Discussion Starter #11
Okay, I'm assuming the motor is a 427W, correct? If so, front heavy, this I know.

is it the stock k-member? don't need the strut tower brace or k-member brace, just adds weight. Use either 4 cyl front springs (cheap) or 14" 150 coilovers. Whats the car weigh? stock 5.0 rear springs work great. Do you have an rear anti rollbar or an air bag in the right rear? How is the launch, any noticeable car twist? Subframe connectors? Manual or automaic tranny? "Massive burnout" shouldn't be required, may just be overheating the tires and making them "greasy". Pinion angle could be a factor as well.
Engine combo is in my sig. 427W was an old car.
Stock K member.
Car weighs about 3150
Yes on the rear anti roll bar
Yes on the air bag in the right rear
No twist, leaves straight
Yes on the subframe connectors
Manual trans
Have tried several different burn out methods, generally the hotter I get them the better it leaves.
 

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Found this after a quick Google! Apparently pinion angle has nothing to do with traction?
http://www.buickperformance.com/Pinion.htm
BS. I dont care what Buick 'tard says - even if he draws cute little pictures. Pinion angle changes hole-shot traction. Many people here have been advising other users about proper setting of the pinion angle. And they are saying it to you now. It's FREE if you've got adjustable uppers. Why wouldnt you set it properly?

I've experienced the difference personally. With ZERO other changes, my 60' dropped .3 from a pinion angle change only.
 

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YEH it should be trapping way higher mph than 119 with a blower, hell it should trap that or more on engine alone
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Engine combo is in my sig. 427W was an old car.
BTW, 11.8s at 119mph on a 427 and a procharger??? There's more going on here than just a bad 60'.
YEH it should be trapping way higher mph than 119 with a blower, hell it should trap that or more on engine alone
The 427 is a car I sold several years ago to 93Stoked on this forum.

119mph Is actually faster than an Iron headed 331 should be trapping with the 8000' elevation correction factor at our track. P heads, explorer intake, OLD ProCharger D-1B, I am into the complete combo including the blower about $3K.
 

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the car dosent look like it squats at all, id put upr pro series adjustable upper and lower control arms in it w/spherical bushings and get moroso rear drag springs and get some hoosier qtps.
 

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Pinion angle brother....U need to get urself as much weight off the front of that car and def put some double adjustable uppers in it. Every car is different but start at about -3 on the pinion angle.
 

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I found that putting alot of heat into the tires gets them too greasy. I too am running ET Streets (26x10.5x16) around 14psi. It depends on track prep, and track conditions too. I found that giving the tires 5-10 seconds to heat up is generally good enough.

Just a quick run down of my car....04 Cobra, Ported Eaton, Upper Pulley, Stock IRS with a diff brace..With Skinnies up front and the ET Streets and some weight reduction, I had my car to 3600 with me in it.

Last weekend, I cut 1.6x 60's all weekend, with my best being a 1.600

hope that helps!
Jason
 
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