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Discussion Starter #1
The other a day a block from my house my 95 GT died on me while cruising (luckily I was able to coast into my driveway). I tried cranking the engine but the battery was very low and would not crank. So I charged the battery and the motor was able to crank just fine but no start. I first thought that my alternator was going because a week before my battery was low and if I did a short run from my house to somewhere else the car was having trouble cranking over. So I thought it was the alternator, how ever I also do not here the fuel pump priming either. So I am not sure what the problem is. Tomorrow I will buy a voltmeter so I can test things. Also as side not I tried to check the engine codes but the car would not give me any, Is there no code for alternator and fuel pump?

If anybody has any suggestions that would be great. I do have a MSD ignition coil but I swapped back to my stock coil and the car still wouldn't start.
 

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It could be a bad battery, dead cell.
You can’t test that with a multimeter, you need a load tester.
Most parts stores will perform the test free of charge.

You should always have at least one code.
OBD 1 doesn’t have codes for the alternators.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It could be a bad battery, dead cell.
You can’t test that with a multimeter, you need a load tester.
Most parts stores will perform the test free of charge.

You should always have at least one code.
OBD 1 doesn’t have codes for the alternators.
so would the battery going bad cause the car to just die suddenly? would it also cause the fuel pump to not prime? Also I should mention that my clock was cutting in and out.
 

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test the battery with a voltmeter, what does the voltage drop to when cranking?

low voltage to the ecu, will cause many 'weird' things to happen
 

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It could be a bad battery, dead cell.
You can’t test that with a multimeter, you need a load tester.
Most parts stores will perform the test free of charge.

You should always have at least one code.
OBD 1 doesn’t have codes for the alternators.
You most certainly can test a battery with a voltmeter, youre just not testing it under load. If the battery has dropped a cell, it will not read in the 12v range as it should. If its failing under load, monitoring the voltmeter while cranking will show if the battery is shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You most certainly can test a battery with a voltmeter, youre just testing it under load. If the battery has dropped a cell, it will not read in the 12v range as it should. If its failing under load, monitoring the voltmeter while cranking will show if the battery is shot.
The battery reads 12.66 volts and while cranking it read about 6-9 volts. I checked the fuel pump fuse, also I can here relays clicking. I still don't here the fuel pump priming.

Also isn't it strange how I can't get any codes to show? isn''t there also a way to jump the fuel pump to see if it will work.

I think what is happening is very strange because I have had fuel pumps go in the past on different early 90's ford trucks and they always slowly spudder out and die. My mustang on the other hand just turned off like a switch. I even checked the fuel rail schrader valve and it seemed like it had a decent amount of pressure left in it( I think it still would have run on that) I was probably revving 2500 rpm when it shut down and I lost all power.
 

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voltage is low, but it still cranks

if you suspect no fuel, either hook up a fuel pressure gauge

or take some carb cleaner and spray it down the intake

you should be able to idle with carb cleaner without issue

this will confirm no fuel
 

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Discussion Starter #8
voltage is low, but it still cranks

if you suspect no fuel, either hook up a fuel pressure gauge

or take some carb cleaner and spray it down the intake

you should be able to idle with carb cleaner without issue

this will confirm no fuel

Ok so the car would not fire at all with starting fluid. I tried several times and nothing. Is there anything that would cause the fuel pump to not prime and have no ignition? I am really at a lose as to what the problem is with the car. Hopefully we can get this figured out or I will just tow it too a shop.
 

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what starter fluid did you use?

we are not going to solve this in one post

one question, 1

one answer, 1

do you want to continue diagnosing?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It was a motor medic instant starting fluid, says it is good for all engines. I would like to keep diagnosing it if I can.
 

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pull at plug wire and attach a spark gap tester on it

you want 20Kv or more, like an inch of free air, if using a test light in stead

No prime, how do you know, have you measured current of read no fuel pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
pull at plug wire and attach a spark gap tester on it

you want 20Kv or more, like an inch of free air, if using a test light in stead

No prime, how do you know, have you measured current of read no fuel pressure?
No, But i can not hear the full pump running at all.
 

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supply a ground, to the far left pin of the diag connector

hold the connector with the two pins at the bottom, key in run
 

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Discussion Starter #15
supply a ground, to the far left pin of the diag connector

hold the connector with the two pins at the bottom, key in run


sorry but I am not the best with electrical, when you say supply a ground do you mean just touch it to the chassis or something else. Also the battery is probably 3 years old. could the battery be causing all the problems?
 

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Are you pulling codes from the correct location under the hood?

6volts is too low for the EEC, I think your problem is the battery or a faulty connection/cable, but Indy will help you diagnose it if you follow his troubleshooting steps.

Having the battery load tested would be a good idea since the voltage is so low.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Are you pulling codes from the correct location under the hood?

6volts is too low for the EEC, I think your problem is the battery or a faulty connection/cable, but Indy will help you diagnose it if you follow his troubleshooting steps.

Having the battery load tested would be a good idea since the voltage is so low.
Yes I am pulling codes from the right location. I have done it a few times before, I just bought a battery and will install it soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok update, I got a new battery so voltage should be ok now. I tried to to pull codes again and also tried the fuel pump test and nothing happened. I also bought a spark tester and i currently have no spark anywhere except for when the SPOUT connector is unplugged. I also did the TFI test found in this video here :
and I have no flickering on the coil. Also I did check to see if there is any power going to the fuel injectors and there is none at all. I have read that the computer controls the fuel injectors, so I am now thinking that my ecm has failed. Also does the ecm control the time on the clock dash pod? cause if it does my clock was flickering and went out the same day the car died on me.
 

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Does the CEL illuminate with key on?
The EEC doesn’t control your dash clock, but that symptom does indicate an electrical issue.
 
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