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Discussion Starter #1
trying to install Long Tube headers .The smog pump tubes do not line up. i em considering a copper tube or pluggin it up. Plugging it, would that effect the EEC?

98 Cobra
 

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I dunno, but if it does not affect it, the whole smog system is coming out of my car.
 

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Yes, your car will trip about 5-10 different Check Engine Light "codes." To get the tubes to line up better, you must loosen the fittings at both ends. That means the header end is already loose, so you follow the metal tube until you get to a similar fitting. Then you loosen the fitting(do not completely unscrew it or you will have the same problem as before) and the other end will line up with the headers perfectly.

The same thing will probably need to be done to get the EGR tube to line up easily.

Just for reference, my cobra tripped 5 codes (P0411) and had 1 pending after my longtube install. The code said: "Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Upstream Flow Detected." Take a wild guess as to what caused the code! I had removed a vacuum fitting from one of the Air Tube Solenoids and forgot to put it back on. That is how anal the OBD-II system is.

The Emissions parts on our cars do not weigh much(15-20lbs total... and that is probably on the high side). And the EGR stuff won't hurt your performance as much as you would think.

Hope that helps. FWIW, I spent last Friday thru Monday night installing my BBK Longtubes, so it is still pretty fresh in my mind.
 

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The Emissions parts on our cars do not weigh much(15-20lbs total... and that is probably on the high side). And the EGR stuff won't hurt your performance as much as you would think.
I am not concerned about the weight as much as I am of the drag put on the engine from running the pump. But if it really does not effect it much, it can stay on till the motor gets more mods (and till we can figure out how to trick the OBD-II).
 

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FWIW, Bob Cosby is able to pilot his N/A 99 Cobra(with full emissions, minus cats I believe) to the 11's. I doubt there is much drag created by an air pump that is properly functioning. Besides that, IF I am not mistaken, the air pumps are electric and only pump air upon start-up. At least that is how I understand the system to work on my 96 cobra.

NOTE: I am not an expert on the Emissions or OBD-II system of our 96+ cars. I will soon have an EEC-Tuner and will be quickly learning the in's and out's of tuning.
 

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I took my air pump out last Friday and haven't had any ill effects. But I don't have the check engine bulb in my dash, so it won't light up if any codes are sent. It doesn't effect the performance of the car, but will send codes like blue88mustang said. I took out the pump, bracket that holds it, and the rubber hoses off that attach to the T fitting in front of the motor. The whole thing may weigh ~7lbs. It took over an hour to figure out where all the bolts were at and to get the thing out, PITA. This was lying on my back in the driveway without stands, so very little room to do it. I wasn't taking it out for weight, I ws taking it out so I could try to mount my densecharger in the down position, which it turned out I couldn't get any leverage on the two pipes to get them together.

Hope this helps.

John
 

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Ace and Blue88,

You guys have different cars, so you cant help eachother out. 98's have a different SAIS system than the 96-97 cars. The BBK headers are made for 96-97 cars and the bung on the drivers side is completely different. Some guys cut/bend/reflare the SAIS tubing to fit the BBK headers, and some guys just pull the whole damn thing out. If you have a chip with OBDII disabled, then you can pull it out altogether, if not it will throw a code, but not hurt performance. Also, if you have a catalytic h-pipe, dont remove the SAIS, you need ti to keep your cats alive. If you have an off-road H, your a tree killer already so ditch the SAIS system, it's doing nothing for you.

A couple of Corral guys have done the cut/bend/flare otpion, make another post about it in the title so they can see it.

James
 

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Well I just got my bbk lt's installed, ditched the air pump, lines and plugged the vacuum line. I was going to cut, bend and reflair but could get all the tools. I got an eec tuner to keep the rear o2's from triping my CE light and was also able to disable the secondary air dignostics.

The only draw back I am having, I think, is that the car seems to ping whenever the engine is decelerating. I dont now if this is normal with an O/R h-pipe and stock mufflers or it has something to do with the removal of the air pump.

maybe Island Vobra can give some input here?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
The BBK Long tubes do not fit the 98 cobra Air induction tubes.They fit the 96,97 &99 cobra.BBK said they should change there advertising.Lot of good it does me Now!I should have just had a custom set built , would have been way better. but anyway for those who heed my warning.The drivers side presents just as many problems if not more than the passenger side.The flange requires the dip stick to be reworked.The air induction for the smog pump is about 3 inches away from were it should be . The flare fitting on the air tube seems to be a ford only thread(metric and fine tread flare). I would like to have the option to change back to OEM setup.Not that one couldn't order 97 cobra air induction pipe for the pump and so on. Just not worth the hassle of having to remove everything just to change the starter.LOL Thanks all for your help.Great place for info



Tom
 

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BlueVenom,

The Air pump and lines etc, dont have anything to do with engine tune so i would suspect that its just a normal situation with an off road pipe. Is it a ping, or a kind of popping sound coming out the muffler? If you deleted the EGR, a ping is possible under deceleration and light throttle situations.

James
 

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What smog pump???Mine fell off. To keep my conscience clear though I am switching to non-aersol products in the house:D :D :D
 

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dragon:

I too was pissed at bbk, you would think that they would at least note that 98's require changing the air injection tube on the drivers side and maybe some instructions on it. no dice.

here is what i found out.

the tread size is M20 X (i believe 1.5 pitch)
You can either fab you own by using the ends off of the air injection tubes, cut them off and weld them shut. or you can order the caps from bbk, they use them on the gt headers. I am still waiting for my caps, so right now I am using the first method. (I would rec the second)

It took me a while but I didnt need to re-fab the oil dip stick. I did have to lossen the motor mount on the drivers size and then the dip stick when right in.

island vobra:

my egr is still connected. it is not a poping sound. it's more of a pinging sound. doesnt matter on the temp of the engine/exhaust. load or no load, just on deceleration.
 

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To cap off my air injection tubes I cut the tubes about 4-6 inches away from the header, pounded the tubes flat with a hammer on a concrete floor, bent the last inch back over itself, pounded it flat, bent it again, pounded it flat. Viola! Perfectly sealed, no welding needed.
 

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jslagel said:
To cap off my air injection tubes I cut the tubes about 4-6 inches away from the header, pounded the tubes flat with a hammer on a concrete floor, bent the last inch back over itself, pounded it flat, bent it again, pounded it flat. Viola! Perfectly sealed, no welding needed.
That is exactly what I did on my '84 K5 Blazer (tow rig). It lost the rear seat, a/c, smog, and is about to lose the mech. cooling fan.
 
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