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Discussion Starter #1
For some reason I can't get my car to hook this year with anything over 3000 rpm slipping the clutch. Last year I could dump the clutch off the rev limiter and hook. My suspension consist of:

Strange Adjustable Shocks and Struts (Installed this month in attempt to correct the issue) Run front on full loose, tried rear from 2 clicks from softest to 6 clicks from softest
QA1 K member and a arms (installed over the winter)
UPR Coil Overs 12/170 springs (ran these last year) I also have a set of 14/150 if anyone thinks those will do better.
UPR Rear Lower Control Arms, Part #2002-05
UPR Upper Double Adjustables Part #2001-3 Pinion angle set on -3* off crank centerline
Tires right now are 275/60/15 mickey thompson drag radials. Earlier in the year I ran 26x10.5 et streets and I had the same issues. I just recieved today a used set of M&H Racemaster slicks 27x10.5 that I will try.

The car has never been on a dyno but I can't see it putting down more then 280hp at the wheels. I have run a best of 12.48 @ 109 this year w/ 1.72 60ft launching at 3000 rpm. I also have a upr anti roll bar that I will probably install. Any suggestion on what I might change to improve my setup would be great.
 

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Well I was unable to get my car to hook up either. I found that I was not heating the tires long enough. I did a second gear burn out for about 20 seconds or so and then let her rip. I went from high 1.9s-2.0s to a 1.8 but then I missed the damn 2-3 shift.:livid:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I was unable to get my car to hook up either. I found that I was not heating the tires long enough. I did a second gear burn out for about 20 seconds or so and then let her rip. I went from high 1.9s-2.0s to a 1.8 but then I missed the damn 2-3 shift.:livid:
I did 8 passes today, the tires got just as stick weather I did a burnout for 3 seconds in 2nd gear or 30 seconds in 2nd gear and couldn't even see anymore.

I would blame it on the heat but the car reacts the same way no matter what the temperature is.

I'm going to try full slicks hopefully next weekend.
 

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sounds lik the fronts not lifting fast enough. I'd try runnong the 14/150lb front spring. It will hold more energy than the 12/170.
 

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I would try a taller spring in the front, to help transfer more weight to the rear of the car.

What are your shock and strut settings?

What tire pressure do you run?


Pat
UPR
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I would try a taller spring in the front, to help transfer more weight to the rear of the car.

What are your shock and strut settings?

What tire pressure do you run?


Pat
UPR
I'll install the 14" springs this week. I've run the struts on full loose the whole time, I've tried the shocks from 2 clicks clockwise all the way to 6 clicks clock wise and it made no difference. Tire pressure I've tried 10-20psi, the lower I go seems to help some but not enough. Anything above 15psi I can't hook at all.

Should I install the anti roll bar this week or hold off till I get the car hooking. I just mounted up 27x10.5 m&h racemaster slicks for my car today. I'm going to try them this weekend.

Is a .5* more positive pinion angle going to make much difference? Also should I try setting it off the crank centerline or driveshaft.
 

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What else have you changed besides the K member?

I love drag radials, I have run 1.40's on them, but they require a good track to work. I would bet money that they are spinning on the initial launch, which would mean that no matter the spring, they are not hooking enough to lift the front of the car, or make the suspension work. If thats the case, its the track, or the tires.
 

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I think a taller and lighter spring rate will work better. And I know it sounds crazy but I have used Stange 10 ways up front and went from low 1.6 to 1.52-1.53s by running then tight. I was always launching the car above 5000k and dumping it but but every click I tightend it would 60' quiker. I beleive it ended up about 3 clicks from the tightest setting.
 

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Pinion angle should be anywhere between -1 and i've heard -5 but all depends on your set up and what kind of bushing/ hiem joint. And here is a link
http://www.wolferacecraft.com/pinionangle.aspx

Also have heard make the rear as stiff as possible especially with manuals.. Its an attempt to slow the transfer of power to rear wheels so its not so much a shock to the tires...
I usually run tire pressure from 8 to 12 psi

Id also suggest Hoosier quick time pro's stiffer side wall then MT et streets and more sticky.!!!

For your front springs what's your car weigh...
 

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Also have heard make the rear as stiff as possible especially with manuals.. Its an attempt to slow the transfer of power to rear wheels so its not so much a shock to the tires...
Not quite. The stiffer the rear the QUICKER the transfer of power to the tires b/c there is less power being absorbed. But with stiffer springs you also have the chance that the suspension won't absorb the shock from the launch or the track surface, etc so the tires may spin. It's a tuning idea by trial and error..;)

ks
 

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Not quite. The stiffer the rear the QUICKER the transfer of power to the tires b/c there is less power being absorbed. But with stiffer springs you also have the chance that the suspension won't absorb the shock from the launch or the track surface, etc so the tires may spin. It's a tuning idea by trial and error..;)

ks
My bad i was just talking about shock settings... but i can see that happening as well..
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm going to put the 14" spring in this week. According to wolfe's website I should set the pinion angle between -1 to -1.5 degree's off the driveshaft so I may try that as well.

I have a set of hoosier qtp 27x10.5 in my garage. I may try them out sometime. I ran a mickey thompson et street earlier this year and it worked better then a drag radial, but not much better. Also the track I race at isn't the best prepped. This could be my whole problem possibly but lots of guys with mustangs there have no problem hooking up with less suspension then me.
 

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I think you will see an improvement going with 14" front springs. Not sure what your cars weighs or how much power it makes but I run 14" 150lb springs with a 3170lb race weight making 700+hp. My best 60' at Mason Dixon is 1.30 and best at MIR was 1.31 so I wouldnt blame it on the track, although I agree when it gets really hot MD does get slick but that will happen at any track. If you have enough suspension adjustability and lower your tire pressure its manageable. I'm in no way an expert like Kevin and Pat but if you let me know when your going to the track next, I'd be glad to watch your car launch and offer any advise I can.

Not quite. The stiffer the rear the QUICKER the transfer of power to the tires b/c there is less power being absorbed. But with stiffer springs you also have the chance that the suspension won't absorb the shock from the launch or the track surface, etc so the tires may spin. It's a tuning idea by trial and error..;)

ks
Quick question for you. Our local track has a few decent sized bumps down track, one being about 100' out where the transition is. If I carry the front end out too far and hit this bump before the front end settles the rear wants to unload. Could you offer some advise on what I should do about this? Not sure if I should go softer or stiffer in the rear. I'm running stock GT springs and single adjustable strange shocks with 6 clicks in them.
 

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Well I was unable to get my car to hook up either. I found that I was not heating the tires long enough. I did a second gear burn out for about 20 seconds or so and then let her rip. I went from high 1.9s-2.0s to a 1.8 but then I missed the damn 2-3 shift.:livid:
20 sec is entirely too long for a burnout. You are just wasting your tires. 5-8 sec in sec or 3rd gear is plenty. Anything more is just wasting and showing off.
 

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Quick question for you. Our local track has a few decent sized bumps down track, one being about 100' out where the transition is. If I carry the front end out too far and hit this bump before the front end settles the rear wants to unload. Could you offer some advise on what I should do about this? Not sure if I should go softer or stiffer in the rear. I'm running stock GT springs and single adjustable strange shocks with 6 clicks in them.
One of the best things to tune for is to get the car settled before the transition. This way the cars weight is more evenly distributed among the 4 tires.
Softer springs/shock settings can help but then it affects the launches. Double adjustable rear shocks could help with softer springs that way you can tune the rebounding after hitting the bumps. The rebounding is what you want to tune.

hth's
ks
 
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