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Talked to the shop today. Thrust bearing is chewed up. They say it looks as if something is pushing the crankshaft forward. Talked to the guy that did my trans. Sent pics of pilot bearing marks on input shaft. He says it looks dead on. What else should I be looking at?
I don’t want to have to pull this engine again for a long time.
Can you post those pics?
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Quick question about distributor gear. I have a stock dizzy with what I presume to be a steel gear. Comp Cams recommends using a new melonized gear with a new cam. Summit lists melonized gears in .467 and .531 diameters. I measured my shaft....correction, measured the distributor shaft and got about .45x
So i figure it’s the smaller of the 2 that i need. Then I take a closer look and it looks like either a small insert in the gear or the shaft gets bigger there where the gear sits. Is the shaft the same size where you can see that brassy insert or is it a step on the shaft?
I‘d pop it off for a look but the roll pin is really tight and I don’t want to bugger anything. I’ll let the shop swap it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Thank you. So looks like I’d actually need the larger gear based on the smaller diameter of the shaft. Maybe I should try a little harder to get the gear off for a proper measure.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Lil’ update.
A buddy works at the machine shop doing the work. He emailed last night with an update. Thrust bearing badly damaged, sent metal through the oil pump which then took out #1 main. Bores and pistons survived, crank needed polishing. Top end ok. Sounds like it’s mostly all back together. Clearances checked and noted.
One thing he said is that the pilot bearing had been pushed in about 1/4“ further than it should. Trans installation error on my part? Or could jack rabbiting cause that?....remember I’ve been fighting a low speed bucking issue since day 1.
This shop does a lot of engines, and are really knowledgeble and trustworthy, so I‘m still at a lose as to how this happened.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Shop called yesterday....engine is ready. I’ll pick up Monday.
Plan is to verify end play with a dial indicator, then measure exactly how far the trans shaft goes into the pilot bearing. Will use studs on the bell to help align the trans into place. Check end play again with clutch and trans installed. If all good, drop into the car and check again after a few miles.
In the meantime I’ve been going through my engine harness confirming continuity and cleaning connectors. Any recommendations on a good wire wrap/loom that offers heat protection? Looking at this, but it doesn’t really offer much heat protection.
 

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Since no one else mentioned it, T5s have different input shaft lengths, '93 and earlier are shorter than '94 and later. SN95 models have their own specific bellhousing which is deeper than the earlier models to accommodate the longer input. They also use a 7:00 clutch fork position as opposed to the 9:00 fork position of the earlier models. I can't really imagine that you would be able to mount a '94+ transmission on an early bell, but I thought I would mention it.

Jay
 
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