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Discussion Starter #1
hey corral!

Im trying to decide what direction I should go, what I need to do, to set up my suspention.

My car has stock suspention except for urethane bushings, 3.73 gears, lentech aod, 302 with a s trim running 9 lbs of boost, 3" exhaust, 2x3 frame connectors, kyb adjustable struts and 275/40/17 m/t radials.

I had the car at the track a few weeks ago and on the unprep'd track I could not get it to hook and ran low 12, high 11 passes. the best I could do is 11.34 at 122.95mph just before the track closed but could not repeat it.

it needs suspention work but what would work better for a s/s car, the stock 4 link or a MM Torque arm?
 

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It would be a very good setup in my opinion for a street car that you will sometimes take to the drag strip. The advantages outweigh the dis-advantages especially for a street car.

Here are the dis-advantages as far as I know:
You will lose a little ground clearance. It's not that much and shouldn't even be noticed unless you drive over huge rocks on a regular basis. The torque arm is heavy too, but the weight is right in the belly/towards the rear of the car. The torque arm is also pricey compared to other suspension parts and you may get some NVH.

Now to the advantages:
You will gain traction in every condition on the street/track and you can adjust the pinion angle to whatever you like. Not only that, but since you will also need the panhard bar setup the car will feel very stable and predictable around corners. Not so much what is called "snap oversteer". If you've ever driven a mustang to it's limits around a corner you've probably noticed that when the rear end starts to come around, it's over. The rear tires slide, the rear suspension loses all it's bind along with the spring rate changing and the car is very hard to control and usually spins out. That will almost all go away and the rear suspension will travel with far less bind and should ride very well. The car will also have way less brake dive and will stop better. Not sure how much power the torque arm can take, but I'm sure it's more than 6-700 hp depending on the weight of your car.
 

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if you want the car to handle real well then get it with the PH and might as well do a full Bilstein coil over also :)

if handling doesnt matter to you then put some 4cly springs up front and get Kevins UCL and some stiff LCAs

how much do you want to spend and do you want to turn :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
well all out handling isnt what Im looking for but good street manners are along with a good drag set up. One of the reason Im looking at this is because I am trying to avoid heim joints since I will be driving on gravel roads. Im sure that will kill heim joints quickly. as well, the torque arm seperates centering the rear from controlling the up and down motions of the rear, eliminating most the the suspention bind.

has anyone done this before? does anyone here have any experience setting up a torque arm for the 1/4? Will this work?
 

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I have a torque arm and the few times I've run it at the drag strip for fun it has worked great. 1.8 60ft on street tires and the cars is very easy to drive.
 

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hey corral!

Im trying to decide what direction I should go, what I need to do, to set up my suspention.

My car has stock suspention except for urethane bushings, 3.73 gears, lentech aod, 302 with a s trim running 9 lbs of boost, 3" exhaust, 2x3 frame connectors, kyb adjustable struts and 275/40/17 m/t radials.

I had the car at the track a few weeks ago and on the unprep'd track I could not get it to hook and ran low 12, high 11 passes. the best I could do is 11.34 at 122.95mph just before the track closed but could not repeat it.

it needs suspention work but what would work better for a s/s car, the stock 4 link or a MM Torque arm?
It's suspension, not suspention, thus the squiggly red line under the word. Either would be fine, but if it were me, I'd give baseline suspensions a call and get one of their packages. Have you removed your front sway bar and relocated your battery?
 

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One other drawback is there is a limit to how much torque they can handle. I think the MM site has a chart based on engine torque and rear gears. I pull 1.4-1.5 60-fts with full MM suspension (tubular K, HD torque arm and panhard) with drag coilovers.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
hey pj thanks for the correction (I was being distracted by children when I wrote that)and yes I have removed the front sway bar and relocated the battery. I am also going to get a qa1 or MM kit for the front, when funds allow.

Blue00gt and jw33, did you find it hard to set up for anti-squat, CG, etc. , or do you even need to with a torque arm?

how does baseline suspensions heim joins hold up on the street?

thanks
 

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hey pj thanks for the correction (I was being distracted by children when I wrote that)and yes I have removed the front sway bar and relocated the battery. I am also going to get a qa1 or MM kit for the front, when funds allow.

Blue00gt and jw33, did you find it hard to set up for anti-squat, CG, etc. , or do you even need to with a torque arm?

how does baseline suspensions heim joins hold up on the street?

thanks
Like jw33 I just set the pinion angle. The other things you mention are mostly a function of the ride height and suspension geometry. As long as the panhard is level and you have the torque arm shimmed right for the pinion angle you are good to go.
 

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This setup has yielded 1.5 60ft's and handfulls of 1.6's on drag radials. Car is 38XXlbs going down the track. Nitrous car/5spd car/400hp. Handle's great usually dead hooks. Spring rates are 375F/300R





7.6 or so at 91-something on a 100shot(notice it doesn't really "move" when it launch's. ;) ) I'm obviously the white Mustang/tower side a few seconds in. Car has been 7.19 on 8.5" ET Drags and 150 shot/open headers.

http://www.streetfire.net/video/joe-at-I40_131452.htm
 
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