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I'm finally getting around to installing the used Vortech V3 SCi blower I bought 3 years ago and am in the process if buying all the last few pieces I need. I've done hours of research on PCV and bypass plumbing and they're still confusing topics to me, but I think I've figured it out. Here's what I plan to do, so please let me know if there any flaws in my plan.

First, the bypass. The dyno tuner that I'm planning to use recommended installing a bypass even at the low advertised boost levels of the SCi (5-6 psi), so I'm likely going to buy the Vortech bypass upgrade kit with new discharge tube since I currently have the plastic one with no provision for the bypass. I also need to buy a new inlet pipe because the used blower I bought came with a hokey bend and cone filter attached to the 90* inlet elbow (similar to the original Vortech setup but without the cover). I'm leaning towards buying a UPR Boostmaster pipe (over the AFM pipe due to cost and aesthetics), and I noted that it has a nipple on it for the bypass. The Vortech 90* inlet elbow is also tapped for a bypass, but I'd need to drill the hole. Does the UPR pipe come with an elbow that replaces the Vortech one? Or is it possible to use the Vortech elbow, including the bypass port, and just plug the bypass nipple on the UPR pipe? Is there any advantage to connecting the bypass to the inlet pipe vs. the elbow, or vice versa?

Next, PCV. I live in California where we have to do smog checks, so breather filters are not an option. I don't want to deal with potential leaks or fumes either, so I want to use a closed PCV system to prevent unmetered air from getting in during normal driving or overpressurization of the crankcase under boost. From what I've read, the best setup for this is:


  • Add a one way check valve inline between the PCV valve and upper intake so it can only flow into the intake
  • Add an oil catch can or separator inline between PCV and upper intake
  • Connect a hose from the oil filler neck on the pass valve cover to the somewhere between the MAF and blower inlet
  • Cap the breather port on the throttle body
I'll also need to add a baffle inside the passenger side valve cover. I already added the baffle under the intake manifold, and the mesh screen is present under the PCV valve.

Is this adequate venting to prevent gaskets or the dipstick from blowing out? The engine was rebuilt maybe 5K miles ago so blowby should be minimal. Again, if I use the UPR Boostmaster pipe, can I also use the stock Vortech inlet elbow, since it's already tapped for a breather hose, or will I have to use the UPR elbow and somehow tap the UPR pipe for the breather? I also noted that Vortech uses an inline filter on the breather line to air filter cover in their stock configuration, and I'd consider doing this, but does that filter flow in both directions? That's important to know since the oil filler on the valve cover ingests fresh air during normal driving but vents the crankcase under boost.

Feel free to correct anything I've said here. I'm new to boost but have done the best I can to educate myself before posting here!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Bump to the top, but I did at least answer the last question I had by buying a Napa 3033 fuel filter and confirming it does flow in both directions.
 

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I just have a catch can. I tapped two -An 10 fittings to valve covers which goes to catch can which has a breather at top. This is on a T trim setup 20psi. I stay away of introducing any possibility of oil contamination at the blower inlet, your pcv inline separator sounds okay.

Many of newer mustangs have the valves cover connected to a vented catch can, oil separator
 

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For your bypass questions... the plastic Bosch bypass (Vortech P/N 8D001-004) will work great for your boost levels. Now, if you plan to increase your boost levels later on, say to 10+ PSI, I, as well as Vortech, would recommend going to a Maxflow Race Bypass. This is currently what I am installing on mine in place of the Bosch valve. The Race Bypass will require different inlet/discharge components and possibly some fab work. Yes, you will need a new upgraded S/C discharge pipe (the one seen in Vortech P/N 4FA112-030; link below for ref.) I have what I believe to be an AFM power pipe, with a tapped hole on the underneath for the 90° plastic barb fitting. Through my research, I have found many people's preferences to be the AFM over the UPR, but i personally have not had any experience with UPR one. There's no advantage to recirculating the air into the inlet power pipe or inlet elbow.



https://vortechsuperchargers.com/collections/air-components/products/standard-compact-bypass-valve-g2
https://vortechsuperchargers.com/collections/air-components/products/discharge-assembly-1986-93-5-0l-mustang?variant=33385857482
 
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