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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So..I hate to beat the horse here, but I have a quick question to see if anyone has a combo close to mine to help me get this car movin! I recently build a 306 xxx block motor to use with a on3 kit Ive had laying around forever. Motor was professionally machined and balanced by a reputable builder. SRP forged pistons, GT40P heads, 8:5:1 cr. E cam, All ARP hardware yada yada.. Anyways, Im using RC 62 lb injectors with a calibrated Pro M meter, Two range colder auto lights gapped at 35. Kirban FPR. Timing set at 12 w pill in. FP is around 40 vacuum off..hard to set because Ive only got it to fire a couple of times. Here lies the question. Why the hell cant I get this car to fire?? Anyone have any tips on timing, fuel pressure, different plug, whatever it takes to get this car at least idling and moving before I take it to the tuner. Im worried the car is flooding out as soon as the pump comes on w those 62's. Should I just call and get a base tune from what I have sent to me? I read about people driving untuned ones, wondering how? Id like to at least drive my 7000 dollar motor before I go trash it on a dyno with no break in :) Any help is appreciated.
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Check timing to be certain not 180 off - Pull the #1 plug and feel for the air coming out.
After restabbing the disributer set timing at 10 with pill out.
 

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No pun intended but that is a bit vague. Pull the #1 plug, stick your thumb over the hole while using a ratchet to turn the crank, when the compression pushes your thumb off, the balancer should be at the 0* or 10* mark (whatever you have it set at, and the rotor should be pointing REALLY close to or directly at the #1 terminal on the cap/distributor.

If that is not the case, you will need to pull the Dist, set the #1 cyl to TDC and drop the Dist. In with the rotor at the #1 terminal.

My guess is just those big ol 62lb inj's. so you are on the factory tune/ECM?

I am only running 42's and have to pull -32 % at start and around -16 at idle.


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If you maf is correctly calibrated and your injectors flow what they are supposed to it should run no problems with the timing set correctly. You need to figure out why the engine will not stay running (fuel/ spark/ compression) otherwise you will just be chasing your tail and guessing. Are you using high impedance or low impedance injectors?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for the replies guys..Yes, still on factory tune, Im def getting it tuned, just hoping Id get lucky and be able to drive it a little staying outta boost..The timing is set correctly, but like I said we had it at 12 Ill bump it to 10..Should I lock it out? Also, those RC's are the saturated ones, which are high impedance SL4-0650. I got it to start yesterday, but had to turn my fuel pressure down to about 20..Even then, it smelled and acted like it was flooded after shutdown, and would not start again for a hour or 2. My wide band doesnt seem like it's working correctly, because it doesnt move at all when revving or anything, just hangs at 14.9 so I cant get a read on what Is happening there, gonna try and figure that one out today, along with the problem of the key spontaneously not sending power to the starter solenoid and having to use a screw driver to start it. Was working fine until the motor swap. On a side note, I installed the stainless catback from On3, and it sounds good!, looks awesome. Im starting to find leaks in the hotside piping so I gotta add that to the list too!
 

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Keep plugging away, it will be worth it. Maybe see if you can re-calibrate your wideband so you can see what is going on with the fuel. I had to re-cal my innovate to get it working once in a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks! Yeah im slowly getting it done..found the exhaust leak..damn port on the crossover..the plug was on the ground for some reason? again, started first turn of the key today (fixed that...bypassed the clutch switch) and never would start again. battery on the charger.
 
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