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Discussion Starter #1
My full-length Steeda sub frame connectors were just delivered. I'm going to have them welded in soon. I'm converting to 5 lugs using '01 Bullet PBR calipers, 13" rotors and sn95 spindles. I'm going to order 31-spline Moser axles, rear disc brake brackets and 11" rotors and calipers. I was going to run 17" Bullitt wheels and decent tires. I'm not sure which control arms (fixed or adjustable) and struts and shocks to run. What's a good, overall budget road and drag racing setup for a Fox?
 

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Not at all trying to sound like a jerk, but for example sake, that is a bit like asking about how to be a good marathon runner while also being a good heavy sumo wrestler.

Efficient setups in either category are going to be completely different from one another. The drag racer wants weight transfer, the road racer does not. The drag racer will want somewhere in the neighborhood of 125# c/o springs, the road racer will want 300# and up.

You basically will have to pick a priority and just "put up with" with how it performs the secondary task. In other words, you can have it do either 1 of those things well or be mediocre at both.

My personal opinion is that you give up less going with a handling oriented setup. Anything that "works" for the drag strip is going to turn the car into a lazy boat for any other task.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You don't sound like a jerk. Thanks! I understand exactly what you mean.
 

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You can try to split the difference with mid rate springs, koni adjustable struts, and an adjustable swaybar but I am afraid you will ultimately end up with a setup too stiff to transfer anything meaningful at the strip while at the same time being too soft to really handle well.

There are things that increase the good on both sides of the fence like subframes, good rear control arms, torque arm / panhard bar, anything that removes weight... but most others will take from one to give to the other.

My latest project will be handling oriented. I figure it makes more sense for it to be fun to and from wherever I drive it... car show, icecream run with the kids, autocross, etc... The one time a year that I might go to the strip, I'll just throw tires on the back, give it hell, then be happy with whatever it runs. I'd rather it be fun 90% of the time that I drive it vs 'dealing' with it for 90% of the time while I drive it so that it can shine the last 10%.
 

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If you want a dual purpose, solid axle, rear drive car, there are three things you can do to help things a lot.

Get adjustable front struts. These can be set full soft at the drag strip to help weight transfer to the rear tires on launch. D-specs have the best tradeoff between full soft for drag use to medium stiffness for handling of anything available.

Use a very stiff rear swaybar. Leave this connected for drag use and set to full soft or disconnect for street use. No rear swaybar that bolts to the RLCAs will be remotely stiff enough to qualify as "very stiff".

Use adjustable height RLCAs. These will allow the rear ride height to be raised for drag use and also have the RR tire weight jacked a lot for improved forward grip on launch.

Checkout the article linked below.

How To Install the Ultimate Fox-Body Suspension - Turn And Burn

This car had 225lbs/in front coilovers, 290-350lbs/in springs located on the RLCAs and used Koni SA dampers. With ONLY the wheels and tires changed, it went from pulling 1.06g corners to cutting 1.39 sec 60' times. If we had installed a larger rear swaybar, it could be even better. You can build a car that is a decent compromise, but you need to really realize this and don't try to make it do both things really well. If you do, it will suck at both.
 

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It has not been mentioned but don't forget to get some sort of quick disconnect for the front swaybar end links.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Great idea.

I like the look of the SVE Drift wheels. I was thinking 18's, but I'm only finding 19's. Are these safe wheels for amateur road and drag racing?
 

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End link, not links.

Once one front swaybar endlink is removed, the swaybar can't be twisted by the chassis rolling, so it has no affect on the car.
 

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Great idea.

I like the look of the SVE Drift wheels. I was thinking 18's, but I'm only finding 19's. Are these safe wheels for amateur road and drag racing?
Seems like LMR is no longer making the drift wheels is 18"/SN95 fitment.

They work great for autox and street use from my experience. havent done road/drag racing but I'm sure they'd be fine

 

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Discussion Starter #14
I think American Muscle Racing still has the 18" drift wheels. I think LMR only has the 19" wheels now. I'll have to check. For the time being, I'm going to find some cheap factory 17" Mustang GT wheels for the 5 lug conversion.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Which 13" brake rotors work best with the '01 PBR Bullitt calipers, local auto part store rotors, Stoptech slotted, Baer drilled and slotted or DBA rotors? Thanks!
 

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Not drilled. Not the cheap parts store rotors if you're planning to abuse them on track. Not sure if going to the more expensive Stoptech or DBA rotors will gain you anything over the mid-priced options that are available - specifically, the Centric "high carbon" premium rotors. I've never used those on my Mustang (since it's had a Stoptech 335mm setup for years), but I've used the Centric premiums on track with great success on my Subaru and my CTS-V. (Centric high carbon rotors are ~$55 on Rock Auto, compared to ~$83 for the ST slotted on Rock Auto and nearly double that for the DBAs on knsbrakes.com.)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I picked up a set of 17x8 Tri-Bar wheels for now. I'm going to put some Federal 595s (245s) on them. I'm going to order the Centric 12561044 rotors from Rock Auto. Summit wants $87 each. Thanks!
 
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