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Discussion Starter #1
I have to break in a fresh 308 with a new clutch (t5 swap) and fresh rear limited slip (31 spine duragrip)
What is the best way to break all 3 in at the same time? This is mostly a drag car but I do have tags and insurance for street driving.
I have read a little on "hard break in" for engine rings and was curious if anyone had thoughts on it or tried it?
Also recommended break in oil?

Thanks!
 

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engine should be broke in within seconds of startup...... literally take it to the track and act like its a normal day... just keep eye on temperature and what not ... you should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's what I wanted to hear! New Clutch and differential will be ok too?
 

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I'd make sure and use an oil with zinc and then send it. I have only had one engine ever do anything funny and that was a new DSS shortblock on its maiden voyage. It got a little warm, about 230 degrees but in it's defense I was driving it back from Oklahoma to Dallas on one of the hottest days of the year in August. I pulled over and let it cool down and kept on cruising, never had another problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, non synthetic 10-30 with zinc additive would be ok?
 

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Unless you are running a flat tappet cam, oil with Zinc in it is not really necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hydraulic roller
 

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Cheap 10/30 for break in. I always add a bottle of Comp zinc additive for extra protection. Get a good oil filter. Wix if possible. My engine builder won’t warranty a motor if u use anything else.

Prime the engine. Hold 50-60psi for 30-60sec. Rotate crank 90 degrees. Repeat. Rotate 90 degrees. Repeat. Rotate 90 degrees. Repeat.

Fire it up, set timing, check for leaks. Warm it up varying rpm. Let it get to temp. Shut down and let cool. Repeat 2 more cycles. Change oil and filter.

I use Penn Grade 40 or 50 weight depending on how the engine builder set it up. Drive it a couple miles bringing the engine rpm up to 4,500 or so and letting off. Engine braking will help seat the rings. Technically you could do this in the pits at the track if you had to.

Go to the track and giver er’ hell.

Unless the clutch is a full face stage 1 then there probably isnt a break in. If it is then you’ll have to drive it without slipping the clutch with no high rpm stuff for 300-500 miles.

The diff you’ll need to check manufacturers instructions.
 

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Tell your distributor gear and timing gear contact to the thrust plate that.
You're doing something wrong if you are seeing significant wear of those parts at start up. Roller engines do not require a zinc additive. Prime it, fire it and drive it. Heck; I've broken in flat tappet cams with diesel oil and light valve springs. No additives whatsoever. I wonder if Ford put zinc additive in these engines from the factory?
 

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After you start it for the first time get it up to operating temp and set your timing and before driving let it cool down maybe even let it sit over night then top off the radiator coolant. This may take 3-4 times of topping it off as the system works out the air bubbles after several test drives. To break in the new posi go to an empty parking lot and do a bunch of figure 8's nice and slowly a good way to get those rear diff clutches broken in. Any new t-5 clutch I'd give a 200-500 mile easy break in with lots of stop and go.
 

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You're doing something wrong if you are seeing significant wear of those parts at start up. Roller engines do not require a zinc additive. Prime it, fire it and drive it. Heck; I've broken in flat tappet cams with diesel oil and light valve springs. No additives whatsoever. I wonder if Ford put zinc additive in these engines from the factory?
Most diesel oils have higher levels of zinc.

Using a zinc additive or zinc containing oil is just good insurance, many high performance rocker arm manufacturers recommend you use something with zinc. Many ring manufacturers also recommend it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks all! My cam card from Ed does recommend a high zinc oil.
 

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Prime the engine before you crank the engine. 1/4in long socket on a drill on the oil pump rod and turn it till you have oil coming out of every pushrod. 10-30 oil I would use one with high zinc yes its not a must but will give you piece of mind. Crank let warm up and then let cool no this isn't a must but a great idea. Once you get on the road run the RPMs up put the car under a load you can even go 2500 rpms up a hill then punch it to put it under a load will just help insure rings set. No this isn't a must but again piece of mind. After 100 miles change oil cut open filter and check if you see a bunch of metal tear it back down a little is normal. After that bang on some gears. 500 miles change oil again check filter again. Then your 100% (This is just me but everyone has their own way)

I like a high zinc oil as I have said. (Link is good Valvoline link)

 

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Wix or Fram filer would be a good choice. Reason is filter micron size is super small. I wouldn't run one on a push start mower but for break in but they are great for break in. Also why I wouldn't go over 100 miles on first change. If you have 80psi when you first crank it and 100psi 20 miles later I would be changing and checking that filter for metal.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks, I do have the oil priming tool.
 

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This could be a 10 page thread in no time if opened up to oil filter opinions. I recently broke in a 363 and chose the Amsoil SAE 30 break in oil. I liked the zinc content and have been using Amsoil for years so it was easy for me.

 
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