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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought an '02 Premium GT and plan to install an ATI.

Will the ATI kit have everything I need or will I still need to buy aftermarket stuff like new injectors, maf and fuel pump? If so what aftermarket stuff do you recommend?

After installation will the computer need to be tuned?

The car only has about 700 miles on it right now and I am thinking about installing this kit real soon. Is there any amount of break in mileage I should wait before installing it?

Sorry if I sound clueless, just needing to know as much as I can before I shell out this type of dough.

Thanks
 

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i can tell ya everything i know, seeing as how i WAS gonna do the same on my 02 also. i was kinda persuaded not to by listening to all the horror stories about blown engines. im gonna enjoy all the naturally aspirated bolt ons for at least two years, and make sure i have money for a built engine, and an ati.

get the three core intercooler option for the kit. im assuming your looking at the p1sc. you can upgrade that to the sheetmetal that i guess works wonders under heavy boost, but keep it at 8 lbs. dont get too hp hungry or kaboom.
check out jade performance . their kit is $3270 + $400 for the 42lb injectors. thats the cheapest anywhere. its complete once you get the injectors. get the dyno tune also, better safe than sorry.

so
$3670 for s/c
500 + install (unless you do yourself)
300 + for chip
125 an hour for the dyno tune
_____________________
$4525 minimum. kinda overwhelming isnt it.

+ $$$$$ if ya blow it up, which is what i wasnt prepared for. i also wanted long tubes, throttle body, maf. etc.... so i waited.
now i have maf, t-body, long tubes, densecharger, 3.73, and every other little bolt on.
i guess im happy for now. ill have to wait to be able to beat those hella fast ls1's for now :mad:

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Can someone fill me in on these "horror" stories and exactly what caused the problem? Being an ex-Fbody owner I am ready to put the smack down on some of my old LS1 cronies.

I sure don't want to use NOS cause I have heard many people who said "I know what I'm doing" and have their engine blow up a week or 2 later.

Is their any differences between a '99 and an '02 that I need to consider should I find someone with a 99 that has this kit?

I am in a hurry to get this setup done so please any information will help.
 

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IDBNVS2 said:
Can someone fill me in on these "horror" stories and exactly what caused the problem? Being an ex-Fbody owner I am ready to put the smack down on some of my old LS1 cronies.

I sure don't want to use NOS cause I have heard many people who said "I know what I'm doing" and have their engine blow up a week or 2 later.

Is their any differences between a '99 and an '02 that I need to consider should I find someone with a 99 that has this kit?

I am in a hurry to get this setup done so please any information will help.
dont get greedy with boost and you should be ok. nothing over 8lbs . remember any sign of detonation and your engines through. we have hypereutectic pistons which dont hold up too well to boost. your engine maybe fine, it may not, but just know theres a chance before you get yourself in thatt deep.
as for the 99 kit being the same, i dont think so. the pulley setup changed in mid 2001 or something. check out that jade performance i told you about. they have the cheapest prices.

get better pistons, better rods, and a forged crank and youll have nothing to worry about. start a new thread with a topic thatll catch peoples interest on thins topic, and plenty of people should chime in.
dont forget about the search engine either, theres a whole lot of info on this topic already. good luck
 

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The biggest problem with the ATI's is the motor doesn't take all of the boost. The ATI makes the most power, but it our motors, with weak rods and pistons that are not built for the power.

I am looking at the ATI kit as well as the kennebell if it ever hits the market, possibly the saleen series 5 blower, it won't make the power of a Vortech or an ATI, but it will still be respectable and has alot of upward mobility.
 

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My P1-SC is bought and waiting to be delivered to my performance shop any day now. I decided to go with it because you don't have to tap your oil pan and it is intercooled which means that you can run more boost safer. I still wouldn't go crazy and run 12lbs, but you should be safe with 10lbs. One thing to remember is that the '01 and '02 cars don't like boost as much as the ’99 and ’00 cars because they have higher compression ratios, this is where a "custom tune" is imperative. This is a link to a thread that has to do with cost, http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=89255 When I talked to ATI they recommended 42lb injectors and a '99 Lightning MAF. Do what you want, but most people are running 390+RWHP with this set up. I will soon see if I am "most people":evilgrin:

Good Luck:joy:
 

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ATI P1SC is a great kit. Comes complete, pretty easy install, intercooled out of the box, no oil lines, etc. Lots of good stuff about it. For best results, run 42lbs and an 80mm LMAF (90mm will work as well) in a blow-through config. Most shops can tune for that.

I run the 8lb wheel and see 13lbs at 6500rpm. Note that the boost rating on the wheel is where the stock application shifts (5800-5900rpm on a GT). If you run it higher, you'll see a bunch more boost. I wouldn't run the 10lb wheel and continue shifting at 6500, because I'm sure it would be up at 16lbs+.

Most folks running otherwise stock GTs with ATI blowers aren't seeing 390+rwhp, they're seeing 320-370. There are exceptions, but you're really likely to come in around 350 with a manual and 330 or so with an automatic. Of course, headers, a Bullitt intake, and miscellaneous flow mods bring the number up a bunch.

I saw 353/364 the first run out and was running way too lean above 5400. Now, I'm seeing 315/32x? and am running too rich. I expect to end up in the middle somewhere. That's with an auto and a set of Magnaflow mufflers.

If you keep it conservative and get a good tuner, you should be fine running a blower for a while. If you get horsepower greedy and just NEED that 400rwhp number (even though you have no chance of hooking up that much power without serious traction mods), you're likely to be building a new block soon.

Of course, someone will say that they have 450rwhp on a stock block with 50K miles on it. . . take it with a grain of salt. There are always exceptions, but not many, and most have extenuating circumstances that aren't immediately obvious.
 

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Mostly Right

DATAANGEL,
You are mostly right about the HP numbers, however the fact that you got 353 RWHP reflects that you are only running 8lbs. If you do your research you will find that ALMOST EVERYONE running the 10lbs is getting 390RWHP+/-. I have done allot of research and this is what I have found, I even had a guy form WA email me and say that the past few P1-SC installs they did yielded 411RWHP+/- w/ 10lbs. There is about a 50RWHP difference between 8 and 10lb pullies showing that if you "belly up" (like most P1-SC owners are doing) and get the 10lbs, you yield almost 400RWHP.
Remember that you loose about 2lbs in the intercooler. I'm glad that you like your kit but you must differentiate between boost levels and not just flame another guy because he has the sack to get more HP out of his ride.:rolleyes: And what is shifting at 6500RPM yielding you really, a higher number in your boost gauge? Obviously not more HP. And if you keep shifting @ 6500RPM you will be changing your block out sooner than those of us running 10lbs.
That’s my .02
 

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Re: Mostly Right

2L8IWON said:


Remember that you loose about 2lbs in the intercooler. I'm glad that you like your kit but you must differentiate between boost levels and not just flame another guy because he has the sack to get more HP out of his ride.:rolleyes: And what is shifting at 6500RPM yielding you really, a higher number in your boost gauge? Obviously not more HP. And if you keep shifting @ 6500RPM you will be changing your block out sooner than those of us running 10lbs.
That’s my .02
no, you remember that ati rates there boost #'s after the intercooler. so its kinda like running a 10lb pulley on a vortech or paxton with an intercooler. you make 8lbs of boost after the intercooler, this is why the ati boys are making such great rwhp out the box. imo a 10lb pulley on a stock block is a guaranteed mistake. you also said theres not more hp to be made at 6500rpm. yes there is. the faster you spin that pulley the more boost and fuel will go down there. it may not be smart, but its not like a naturally aspirated engine, its not gonna cut out as fast.
at that rpm though your asking for a thrown rod, or melted hypereutectic
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Wow now you guys are really scaring me. This is my only nice car and I don't want to blow it up. I want to keep this car nice.

I would like 350 rwhp though and my friend hasn't had any problems on this ATI setup on his 98. Are the 98s and earlier any stronger in terms of blocks and rods?
 

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IDBNVS2 said:
Wow now you guys are really scaring me. This is my only nice car and I don't want to blow it up. I want to keep this car nice.

I would like 350 rwhp though and my friend hasn't had any problems on this ATI setup on his 98. Are the 98s and earlier any stronger in terms of blocks and rods?
im tellin ya man, do a search on topics of ati, supercharging, etc in the modular forums and there will be tons of posts.
we have (01-02) romeo blocks which are supposedly weaker (unanimous decision) and 9.4 to 1 compression instead of 9.0-1 like the 00 and older. higher compression also doesnt stand up as well to boost, and CAN be more prone to detonation. once you hear detonation in your car its too late under boost. our pistons and rods werent designed for boost.

theres people who havent had any problems for 25k miles, and people who have blown their engines in 1,000 miles. its a big CHANCE game. a supercharger is gonna find the weaknesses in your engine a lot faster than being natural. now you see why i held off on my ati? i was a little bummed, but i dont need to fork out another $3k for an engine
 

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they arent necessarly stronger, they just dont have that higher compression like the 01, 02s
 

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fordcountry1 said:
they arent necessarly stronger, they just dont have that higher compression like the 01, 02s
do a search, they are. not just the compression either. it was getting too tech for me, thats why i dont remember, but im almost positive its not just the comp.
 

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[1] It wasn't a flame at all, simply a stated set of collected data along with a few opinions that I thought might be helpful.

[2] You refer to 'those of us running 10lbs'. I would submit to you that you're not actually running bupkis. I, on the other hand, am currently running, in my daily driver, an 8lb kit. First hand experience is, IMO worth more than all the speculation in the world.

[3] I have, in fact, done my research. . . but go ahead and run a 10lb kit if you want.

[4] The comments about shifting at 6500 rpm seem a bit undereducated to me. There's lots of power to be made and I like to stay in gear as long as possible (4.10s in the rear). While taking it up 500-600rpm certainly puts more stress on the engine in the long run than a stock application, I don't think that there's any evidence to suggest that running to 6500 at 350hp is more or less stressful than running to 6k at 400hp. I would lean toward less, personally.
 

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Well, here goes my saga. 2001 GT with ATI P1-SC and 10# pulley made 380 rwhp and 396 rwtq. This combo lasted for 2000 miles- broke a rod at the wrist pin. I wasn't even under full boost. I was shifting from 3rd to 4th and boom- it was all over. I had a stock motor put back in, put the SC back on, and this time the car made 396 rwhp and 415 rwtq. This time the combo lasted for 500 miles- broke a rod at the wrist pin. I wasn't even under ful boost. I was shifting from.... Do you see a pattern here? This is my suggestion and you can take for all it's worth.
1. If you have your heart set on the ATI, then get it. Get the 8#
pulley, 42 # injectors, and either the lightning mass air or an 80 mm. Have the car professionaly tuned by a reputable shop that deals primarily with mustangs. Tell them you want a very conservative tune, no crazy amounts of timing, plenty of fuel on top, ect.
2.Don't beat the crap out of the thing every chance you get! Don't rev it to the moon and powershift it. I'm not saying don't get into it and drive it, just don't abuse the thing.
3.Save your money and buy a forged shortblock as soon as you can afford it. The stock motro is only going to last so long .
Like I said, take it for what it is worth. That extra 40-50 hp from the bigger pulley could make the difference in how long your motor will lst. Don't be greedy. Besides, you'll be going from 230 rwhp to 340 rwhp, that's a big jump. You'll still be able to look forward to that 50 hp jump at another time. Good Luck and keep us posted !
 

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What did all you forget about fuel. Have you seen the fuel pump setup in your car. Put what you want for a pump and for injectors but your not gonna get enough fuel till you modify that fuel canister.It may not show up when your tuning but its not capable of enough fuel.
 

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Re: JG00GT ET's?

savercool said:
It sounds like you're making some serious power! What kind of ET's have you laid down with that combo? Thanks!:cool:
I have yet to take it down the track. But with me driving on street tires....it won't be too impressive!
 
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