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Discussion Starter #1
I went to change my pads and rotors and noticed I had a little bit of brake drag. I ended up having to replace one caliper because I couldn't get the stock one to retract far enough to get the new pad over the new rotor. Well, after getting it on it was tight and was still dragging so I ordered braided SS MM hoses thinking that might cure the issue but it hasn't. What is my next course of action?

Also, I noticed the SS lines listed on LMR are $475 for 99-04 (I'm assuming GT or V6) but 96-98 Cobra lines are $190. Nothing Mach 1 specific is listed that I see. I just find it odd that a GT lines would be more expensive than a Cobra/Mach.
 

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I have always wondered how much brake drag is acceptable. I can spin the wheels somewhat easily by hand but there is noticeable drag from the brakes; enough to keep them from spinning freely for more than a second or two. This is on a GT with Cobra PBR calipers.

Not sure which brake line kit you are looking at but I found a stainless front line kit for the GT for $70.
https://lmr.com/item/WIL-2206458/Wilwood-Mustang-Braided-Brake-Hose-Kit-Front
 

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I have always wondered how much brake drag is acceptable. I can spin the wheels somewhat easily by hand but there is noticeable drag from the brakes; enough to keep them from spinning freely for more than a second or two. This is on a GT with Cobra PBR calipers.
That sounds like excessive drag to me. But as you said, I've never seen anything that says how much drag is acceptable.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I had my rotors turned down a little to get the caliper over, but now it's too tight to even spin the hubs without the wheels on or a cheater bar to get some leverage.

I only replaced the front lines with braided lines, the rears are still stock...but I notice MM doesn't have a line listed for 96-04 Mustangs.

Here is a video of the rears before I took the tires off.

https://youtu.be/p7ecf6V4I9k
 

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That does seem tight. New pads a tad thick it appears. i had a buddy with a 98 Cobra and put new pads on and they were too thick that he could not slide the caliper on. He returned the pads for another brand and no issues then.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I haven't changed the rears yet, though. They have been on there about three years.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I guess I need clarify, my first post doesn't have enough info.

I replaced the front rotors and pads...having to replace one of those calipers. The fronts have Maximum Motorsports braided lines.

The back is the factory calipers and lines with pads that have been on it since I purchased the car in 2013. I haven't drove the car a bunch at all. They do have maybe a two or three thousand street miles and one autocross season on them. They still look like they have life but I thought I would just change them all at once.

I bought the car out of Myrtle Beach, but I doubt the little extra salt and sand they have that I don't in North Alabama would cause any problems.
 

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While replacing the front pads on my 01 Cobra, I didn't quite get the pad's teeth square into the pistons. One tooth bent back causing the pad to not completely seat. I didn't notice any of this during assembly. Had a hard time getting the caliper over my new rotors and wondered if the pads or rotors were too thick. Finally got that caliper on and it locked up tight; zero rotation. Once I took it apart I saw the problem. But just straitening the tooth didn't work; nor did just cutting it off. See, there is a bit of metal at the base of the bent tooth that was too misaligned to allow the pad to seat properly. This required some grinding and several test fits before it was correct. Not say'n this is your problem, just put'n it out there.
 
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