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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

I've just finished installing my MM K-Member, A-arms, Bilstein coilovers, CC plates, etc. and I am hitting one spot that's frustrating the heck out of me.

I have moved the brake hard line to soft line bracket all over the place and I can't seem to find a place where the soft line doesn't hit the wheel/tire and the bracket doesn't hit the coilover assembly. Anyone have any pics or recommendations for the relocation of that bracket in a place that won't cause interference issues? Because the bracket has a tab, it seems like they'll fit at times but once bolted in, it still hits the damn coilover collar, or adjustment sleeve, it's very annoying to keep drilling holes (I'm at 3 extra holes in each side).

Also, after adjusting my ride height, I have a ton of free travel for the springs between the upper perch and the spring in full droop, every time I let the car back down, they pop into place. I hate to hear the noise it would make under driving conditions if the wheel droops enough to cause the spring to drop below the level of the lower perch and pop back in, did anyone do anything to remedy that?

Thanks
 

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Hey all,

I've just finished installing my MM K-Member, A-arms, Bilstein coilovers, CC plates, etc. and I am hitting one spot that's frustrating the heck out of me.

I have moved the brake hard line to soft line bracket all over the place and I can't seem to find a place where the soft line doesn't hit the wheel/tire and the bracket doesn't hit the coilover assembly. Anyone have any pics or recommendations for the relocation of that bracket in a place that won't cause interference issues? Because the bracket has a tab, it seems like they'll fit at times but once bolted in, it still hits the damn coilover collar, or adjustment sleeve, it's very annoying to keep drilling holes (I'm at 3 extra holes in each side).
Mine's considerable a long distance from that tab. I do have a 2002 GT and probably have the longer A-arms than the Fox like I assume you have. Can you not just bend the tab over some?

The springs in these pictures are 12" springs and the 10" ones are considerably closet to the top of the threads on the adjusting collar. 8" would probably be optimal, but not a necessity to me at the moment($$$).

FULL POS. CAMBER ON THE C/C PLATE:


FULL NEG. CAMBER ON THE C/C PLATE:


Also, after adjusting my ride height, I have a ton of free travel for the springs between the upper perch and the spring in full droop, every time I let the car back down, they pop into place. I hate to hear the noise it would make under driving conditions if the wheel droops enough to cause the spring to drop below the level of the lower perch and pop back in, did anyone do anything to remedy that?

Thanks
Is your swaybar hooked up? Also, what length are the springs? I'm running a 10" spring with decently lowered ride height. Mine will flop around a bit if the swaybar is not hooked up to the side that is in the air. When it hooked up, I can just barely turned the spring by hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yeah, mine is a Fox, so the arms are shorter and the clearance is minimal. I have 10" 400lb springs that came with the coilover kit. To get back to my original 1.5" lowering position, there's a good 3" of space between the bottom of the spring perch and the top of the spring (with the swaybar attached), it seems like alot, especially considering the control arms are in the 2" drop (upper mounting) position, but this is my first coilover conversion so maybe it's normal, just seems like it'll make alot of noise if it droops fully, maybe even catch on the perch since it drops off the side when it gets past the perch.

The bottom spring perch is very close to where yours is in relation to the brake line bracket's original position but because of the shorter arm, the spring is hitting the bracket badly. In the original position, you cannot steer the car in the air, it would probably clear OK at ride height but it has some severe interference at full droop which seems bad. I haven't aligned it yet but all of my problems are with minimal negative camber (visually) so it's only going to get worse. The driver side clears and is all buttoned up and ready to go but the passenger side won't play. Maybe if I remove the assembly again (the damn strut's in the way of trying a further forward position), I can locate the bracket forward enough to clear everything and pray the brake hose reaches at full lock. Any other suggestions are welcome on either issue.

Thanks again
 

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I've got pictures of how I relocated mine in this thread http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=989893 but they're stainless lines and it the pics don't show them when the calipers are installed. Nevertheless I don't have any problems with the lines or brackets rubbing on anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Excellent write up, never found it when I searched earlier, I found that I made it work by moving the bracket forward which required removing the strut from the car and using the original screw hole for the tab and drilling a new hole for the screw at a 45 degree angle forward and down from there, I also had to loosen and reposition the brake line on the caliper. Now at full droop, I have a decent amount of room, hopefully enough to dial in some negative camber, and my stainless brake lines don't rub the wheel anymore. I'm not sure how you made yours work by moving it backward, I moved it ever so slightly and the line rubbed the wheel big time, I guess tolerances are way different on different 18 year old cars.
 

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On a Fox chassis car with Fox length FCAs, you need to move the brake line bracket backwards on the chassis to clear the strut. Usually about, 1.75".

The spring slop that you now have at full droop is a function of the spring rate, weight of the car and total travel in the strut. Basically the ratio of spring stiffness to car weight (on that corner) determines the amount of droop travel you have before the spring comes unseated. If your strut has a lot of travel available, then the spring will come loose at full droop.

There are a couple solutions. Use a strut with less total travel (very expensive). Move the mounting ears on the strut, so you have more bump travel and less droop travel. This helps, but you can;t do it enough to fix the problem very much. Use a helper/tender spring. This is a super soft spring (5lbs/in) that gets stacked inline with the regular spring. At full droop it gets longer, keeping the main spring with a tiny bit of tension on it. The tender spring works very well on race cars, but they cause a lot of other problems on street cars that are worse than what they are curing.
 

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They can cause a lot of different noise and wear problems that would be objectionable on a street car. On a race car, these problems are usually ignored.
 

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Raising the upper strut mount as high as possible with caster camber plates that allow a lot of upward adjustment, such as Maximum Motorsport, will help limit the amount of wheel droop.

Another alternative for a street car would be to compromise a little on your race-track handling and change to springs with a softer spring rate. The softer springs will compress more, and, and after you re-adjust your coilovers you will have less free-play at full droop.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The strut is mounted as high as it can go with no interference at the top, which was one of the large spacers. I've read this is pretty normal. As long as the spring slack is not going to cause issues, I'm ok with it, just making sure I didn't botch the install or adjustment.
 
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