Ford Mustang Forums banner

301 - 312 of 312 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
763 Posts
these axle spacers are stepped inside to fit over axle (skinnier on inside edge).made specifically for this purpose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Yeah I saw their site, tried clicking on where it says to click and nothing happens, haha. I guess I will give them a call. For now I have Christmas shopping to do, so funding is at an all time minimum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
763 Posts
Yeah I saw their site, tried clicking on where it says to click and nothing happens, haha. I guess I will give them a call. For now I have Christmas shopping to do, so funding is at an all time minimum.
when i was using chrome it wouldn't let me click ,but in IE it got in
 

·
USAF retired
Joined
·
9,358 Posts
Discussion Starter · #305 ·
As a note to anyone doing this conversion using c-clip eliminators you can call strange engineering and have them make your axles with SN registers (hubs). Doing that will eliminate the need to buy the spacer rings.
They might do the same for C-clip axles as well. I'm only using eliminators on mine anymore.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,247 Posts
Moser sells them that way to, right off the LRS website as well. I actually got my moser rear axles with fox length and 94-04 hubs off the LrS eBay store for $200 shipped, it was a scratch and dent pair that literally looked like new ones.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
559 Posts
Working on my rear disc conversion now. This thread helped me so much I figured I should contribute to it. I ended up cutting the caliper brackets between the top two bolt holes. I welded the piece back in and ground the welds smooth. I'll probably go ahead and weld up the joints on the inside also for good measure. I read several opinions on where to cut the bracket, but I figure if you're going to weld it back together it really doesn't make much difference where you cut it.



The old brake lines were pretty dented and kinked up so I used the old lines as a pattern to fabricate new ones. This was done with cheap Harbor Freight bending pliers and flaring tool. I was pretty happy with with the results being it was my first brake line job with cheap tools.




I had read all about the adapter and maybe I missed this part but one thing I learned very quickly is that you can't just use a 3/16" tube nut with 7/16-24 threads to connect to the soft lines since the end of the soft lines are made to accept 1/4" brake line. You must use the adapter. I got the 3/16-24 to 7/16-24 adapter at Napa. I used the Balkamp adapter but here are a few options:

Weatherhead 7818
Balkamp BK 6413306
AGS BLF-22C
Edelmann 258340

The person I bought the '94 GT brake parts from sent me the soft lines from a 2001 Cobra which aren't even close (thanks dude :rolleyes:). I just went to Summit and bought the Dorman DHB-H380371 and DHB-H380372 for $10 each.

I just need to get the rear end back together so I can install the rotors and bolt the calipers on and it should be a done deal. Well, I'll still have to do the e-brake. I have all the parts for that (LRS2635D and M2810A), just gotta make it happen. Hope this helps someone.


.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
I ended up cutting the caliper brackets between the top two bolt holes. I welded the piece back in and ground the welds smooth. I'll probably go ahead and weld up the joints on the inside also for good measure. I read several opinions on where to cut the bracket, but I figure if you're going to weld it back together it really doesn't make much difference where you cut it.

Interesting. I like where you made the cut to maintain all four bolt holes. That makes me wonder why people are cutting them like the pic in this thread over on FEP.---->SN95 Cobra rear brakes and Fox length axles

edit: It just occurred to me that people are probably cutting them the way shown in the link in order to keep the backing plate mounting hole. :rolleyes:
 

·
USAF retired
Joined
·
9,358 Posts
Discussion Starter · #310 ·
edit: It just occurred to me that people are probably cutting them the way shown in the link in order to keep the backing plate mounting hole. :rolleyes:
If you weld them back together it really doesn't matter how you cut them. I initially cut it completely in half when I first did this, hard to believe it was over 10 years ago.
I went with just part of the bracket cut out to keep the factory integrity of the bracket where it mounts to the axle flange, I wasn't worried about the dust shield. I found that if you leave that piece out the dust shield rattles, so I tack welded the piece back in so that final bolt can go through the dust shield.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
If you weld them back together it really doesn't matter how you cut them. I initially cut it completely in half when I first did this, hard to believe it was over 10 years ago.
I went with just part of the bracket cut out to keep the factory integrity of the bracket where it mounts to the axle flange, I wasn't worried about the dust shield. I found that if you leave that piece out the dust shield rattles, so I tack welded the piece back in so that final bolt can go through the dust shield.
No doubt. I was thinking from the aspect of not welding them back together, as most people don't seem to. I suppose I have no reason not to....

Keeping the dust shield isn't an issue for me either way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
559 Posts
Just fabbed up some hub-centric spacers this evening. I know a lot of folks have said these are not needed but I think they are a must. I think there is too much slop between the axle studs and the holes in the rotor to keep the rotors centered properly. These started life as a piece of 1x1x1/8 angle iron. Some people have found the proper size pipe, which would obviously be the easiest route. These only took about an hour to make though and saved me $30 and a few days of waiting for them to arrive. No special tools required. Just a vise, hammer, crescent wrench, welder, grinder, and dremel tool. Of course if you can't or don't want to make them you can buy them HERE. I just thought I'd show that they can be made fairly easily. In all actuality I suppose a few small pieces of 1/8" thick metal tack welded around the hub would serve the same purpose, that is if you didn't mind a semi-permanent modification. I plan to tack these rings in place since I don't see any reason why I would ever need to remove them.


 
301 - 312 of 312 Posts
Top