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The Bondurant cars come with a v10 6.8L water pump with a mechanical fan, shroud, SPAL electrical fan, and a 95 Cobra R Radiator. Additionally, the Air Conditioning (A/C) wide open cut out has been bypassed. The A/C runs constantly, and the electrical fan runs constantly.

I wanted to remove the mechanical fan to gain some hp, and to clean up the front of the engine bay. And I wanted to have the car control the electric fan as needed.

Bondurant modified the factory harness in the right fender between the ECU and the CCRM.
Pins 14, 17, and 23 were removed from the CCRM connector.

I discovered CCRM wires pin 14 Dark Blue Low Fan Control Input and pin 17 Light Gray/Purple High speed Fan Ground cut and spliced together.

CCRM Pin 23 Black/Yellow A/C Clutch Coil Control was cut and spliced to Dark Green/Orange Clutch Switch on the A/C High Pressure Cutout/Fan Switch from C128.

Additionally, on the fan side, the 3 wire stock fan was removed and a 2 wire spal fan was put in it's place. The orange/light blue high speed wire was cut several inches from the 2 wire fan connector. I spliced the OG/LB wire to the low speed Red/Orange fan wire. That way when the CCRM requests low or high speed, the fan will run. The fan is no longer low/high speed. It is simply on or off.

I purchased a CCRM connector with about 12" of wire from another late model v8 mustang. Check the forums, or look on ebay to see if someone is selling a CCRM with a the harness, and just make an offer on the connector. I pulled the 3 missing wires out and plugged them into my factory CCRM connector. Bondurant splices were cut and returned to factory.

My electric fan now works exactly as stock!

Bondurant also modified fuel pump wiring in the trunk in combination with the battery shutoff and an extra inertia crash switch. Fuel pump is hot when the battery is hot. A hotwire runs forward and is tapped into the ecu to keep the key fob doorlocks and trunk open function live when the battery is off.

Traction control is set to off by default, reversed from the factory. My understanding it is due to something in the harness being grounded.

There is an ABS cut out as well, and I believe they used control wires from the rear defroster switch.
 

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Good info. I have not followed any of my wiring out. I was suprised when I hit the battery cut off switch which of course changes states of the solenoid in the trunk and the engine continued to run. I need to add a real cut-out so I am going to look into that circuit when I have some time.
 
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