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Discussion Starter #1
It pains me to do it, but i may have to cage the car. I pull timing to run slower, and not get warnings at the track, but i am a C4 away from hitting 10's. It's a street car with full stock interior. Short shifting (and lifting between shifts) it was trapping 122.6, so i know if i push it the extra 500-700rpms i could, it will be a quicker. I have a stock 5-spd now, but once that goes a C4 will go in most likely. I will ditch the rear seats if i do a 6pt chrome moly roll bar since it'll be dangerous if i put my kids back there. I do want to keep my rear speakers though. How are the bolt-in roll bars? Is it worth the trouble or should i just go a get one welded in making it permanant. How are the bolt-in kits? Do they fit good? Are they a pain to install? Pros and cons of them?
 

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If I was going to do it I would do it 100% NHRA Legal otherwise why bother. That means you might as well run it through the floor and tie it to the subframes and will need the extra braces. Their are also rules about door bar placement material and thickness etc.

My thought is if you go to the inconvenience you should still be able to play at the various special events that use NHRA rules. You are still going to be excluded form all the big events because you cant pass tech.
 

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Swing-outs have always been legal if done properly.

Our bolt-in roll bars are 100% legal once you weld the rear bars to the main hoop bung they are bolted to.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Swing-outs have always been legal if done properly.

Our bolt-in roll bars are 100% legal once you weld the rear bars to the main hoop bung they are bolted to.
Do you make yours where they go straight back off the hoop to the trunk (no rear seat), or they have to go thru the speaker deck?
 

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It pains me to do it, but i may have to cage the car. I pull timing to run slower, and not get warnings at the track, but i am a C4 away from hitting 10's. It's a street car with full stock interior. Short shifting (and lifting between shifts) it was trapping 122.6, so i know if i push it the extra 500-700rpms i could, it will be a quicker. I have a stock 5-spd now, but once that goes a C4 will go in most likely. I will ditch the rear seats if i do a 6pt chrome moly roll bar since it'll be dangerous if i put my kids back there. I do want to keep my rear speakers though. How are the bolt-in roll bars? Is it worth the trouble or should i just go a get one welded in making it permanant. How are the bolt-in kits? Do they fit good? Are they a pain to install? Pros and cons of them?
Just a quick note IF YOUR CONVERTOR IS NOT SPOT ON your car will actully go slower with a C-4 trust me.I went from a stick to a C-4 and lost 10mph and a .10 tenth.I run a 6000 stall and 60ft harder and quicker but the convertor slip is 7% in 3rd gear so I was losing time and MPH on the big end but it was quicker to the 1/8 by .20 tenths and 3mph.

Thanks Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just a quick note IF YOUR CONVERTOR IS NOT SPOT ON your car will actully go slower with a C-4 trust me.I went from a stick to a C-4 and lost 10mph and a .10 tenth.I run a 6000 stall and 60ft harder and quicker but the convertor slip is 7% in 3rd gear so I was losing time and MPH on the big end but it was quicker to the 1/8 by .20 tenths and 3mph.

Thanks Matt
Damn, thanx Matt. I would be very disappointed if that was the case too. How do you determine the right stall? Say i peak hp at 6k?
 

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Damn, thanx Matt. I would be very disappointed if that was the case too. How do you determine the right stall? Say i peak hp at 6k?
I left that up to the trans place, but I will tell what they needed.First I gave them my cam card and engine specs so they had all the info they needed to get it correct the first time.But I had to install it first and make a couple of passes then pull it back out send to convertor back to ATI with the info I gathered during the test runs and they loosened a little more and now its fine.I may of lost time and MPH but the car is more consisit and funner to drive when you are running 9's with a stick or an auto in dont matter everything happens so fast its over before you know it.Now Iam just guessing but for your car I would run at least a 4000k stall.

Thanks Matt
 

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How do you determine the right stall? Say i peak hp at 6k?

Best bet, call a reputable converter builder. They should ask detailed specific questions about your engine/car or have a "build sheet" to fill out that they will use to make your converter. Be as specific and honest as possible to get the most accurate build. I'm going to upgrade to a UCC converter when I save up the green!
 
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