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Discussion Starter #1
To start, I have googled and googled and still haven't really found anything that has helped me solve my issue. There are tons of posts on this topic and I hate to start another, but I need help.

I was recently driving my 1993 Mustang and noticed the turn signals no workie. I checked the fuse and sure enough it was blown. I've since inserted six fuses and they all blow immediately when I turn the ignition to accessory.

I did within the past week change out all of the lenses on the front lights, but kept all the bulbs. Everything worked fine over the weekend, and I drove it quite a bit.

I removed the lenses and checked the wiring to the turn signals and traced it as far as I could and found no place where a problem could be.
The turn signal lamps work when the emergency flashers are on and when the lights are turned on.

Clearly it's electrical someplace, I am hoping someone in here has experience with this and can point me in a better direction. At this point I'm just staring at all the wires I can see and hoping a blind squirrel finds a nut.
 

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when a fuse blows, you don't need to replace it

the circuit does NOT fix itself

Do you have a incad test light?

do not put another fuse in, unless you like watching them blow.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I jiggled wires and re-covered them and would insert another fuse hoping it would fix. I have an electrical test light, yes. I'm not sure how to test the circuits or even where.
 

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so the fuse only blows in acces position?

not in run or crank?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It blows as soon as I turn the key on, before the car cranks. It's the #5 fuse which controls the turn signals, reverse lights, rear window defroster and low fluid light. I am wondering if I remove the bulbs and one by one put them back in if I can isolate where the trouble spot is? I have almost zero experience with electrical.
 

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okay

the ignition switch has

Acces


Run

Crank

which one are you referring to??

it matters, so be accurate.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It blows it when I turn the key to accessory.
 

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First thing I would do, if you brought that car to me, is this. It's easy enough to disconnect everything that circuit powers up. Put the fuse back in and turn key on. Should be good. Start connecting things back up until you isolate the problem. Simple enough.

If you recently changed out lenses, and didn't have the issue beforehand, that seems like a logical place to start.

And of course, the obvious. I always do this first whenever I purchase a used car. Check every fuse. Be sure it's the amperage Henry says it should be, and not something smaller. I was just working on something a week ago, where I found someone replaced all the 15a fuses with 30's, lol.

Not good, for obvious reasons.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks man. I just got home from work and headed to the garage to try that.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I removed the front signal bulbs and inserted a new fuse. I turned the car to accessory and turned on both signals. Each illuminated,but obviously didn't blink since the front bulbs were missing. I then started the car and the fuse blew immediately. I inserted another fuse, with the bulbs still removed, and turned the ignition to accessory again which immediately blew the fuse again. Fml
 

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Pull your column apart also, and check out the condition of this little guy. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-11572A/79-93-Mustang-Ignition-Switch

A very common problem on the Fox Mustangs. Mine went bad on me once. And when it did, I didn't have any turn signals or reverse lights. Might be on that same circuit. I have all the OEM Ford manuals, just not in front of me to look. But you can pick those up at any local auto parts retailer.

Just something else quick and easy to check.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok I'll trouble shoot that. Thanks man
 

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With no fuse in

Connect the test light to battery pos

Then the test light to the load side of the fuse

Use a blade of some sort to keep the test light attached to the load side of the fuse

This will be your fuse

Then repeat what you did with the ign switch

If the test light is bright, you can measure with a dvom the actul voltage, you have a short to ground

With the test light attached you are going to unplug parts of the circuits untill when the test light goes dim or out

The last thing you unplug has the short

This is very easy to do if you know what to look for
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Indy. I removed the column cover and under the dash and checked all that. It all appeared new and in good shape, as did the ignition switch. I checked as many wires as I could find under hood and still no luck. I hate to admit defeat but I may take it to a shop tomorrow and see if they can diagnose it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I researched an ECT2000 power probe. Might be a worthy investment
 

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not needed

but if it helps

go for it
 
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