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Discussion Starter #1
I think it's time to go pro and bail on my homemade piece. It was the best I could do at the time over a weekend with rented torces and a welder. It made a noticeable difference, but I want something more substantial now that I have it off.

I can only find the MMPHB for this car. Is that all there is?

 

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Not sure if there is a best one but I am using the Griggs on mine (it came with the car) and like it. My car is a 88 Notch, what are you running? I am sure they all work the same so you probably will not go wrong with any of them and Jack from MM actually posts here so I am sure he could help you.
 

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I think it's time to go pro and bail on my homemade piece. It was the best I could do at the time over a weekend with rented torces and a welder. It made a noticeable difference, but I want something more substantial now that I have it off.

I can only find the MMPHB for this car. Is that all there is?
PHBs are pretty simple things, so there isn't going to be a whole lot of difference among them as far as "substantial" is concerned - including your DIY PHB. It'll be things like ease of and range of adjustability (for axle centering), roll center height adjustability (if you're into that sort of thing) and end bushing/rod end details ("feel" and NVH) where there might be enough differences to sway your decision.

I don't know if you've changed anything else in your Fox-body's rear suspension, but a PHB works best in a Fox with either a torque arm, a real 3-link, or at least a "poor man's 3-link". Stiffer bushings in the OE triangulated UCAs is very definitely not the hot tip here.


Norm
 

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I have a Griggs adjustable unit; I broke the axle-side mount a while back auto-xing the car for many years on sticky tires. A buddy of mine who used to run CMC had a spare and told me it was a known issue to CMCers.

My two complaints against the MM unit are lack of adjustability and it mounts to the axle on the wrong side to counteract certain rearend forces. However, I doubt 90% of drivers need the adjustability and/or would notice the other issue. MM's piece ceertainly seems to be a great one, as is their customer service.

Whiteline may also make one.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies.. I was on Griggs site last night, and I couldn't find a PHB... lol Thanks for the link.

Reading his description, it seems there's some disagreement on how long and low the bar should be. I'm no chassis engineer, but I think a longer bar is better for the street because there's less arch through the range of motion. My homemade piece has a pretty long bar, and I can still feel the axle move back and forth on big bumps.. He mentions a higher roll center is better on the street in the rain, but this car isn't that> I don't drive in the rain unless I get caught out there..

There isn't a lot of options for this car because it's old! A Torque arm setup would be great, but not right now. At least I have Megabite Jr's set to Road Race. It was a big difference in grip compared to stock, but I'm sure it doesn't have the articulation of a TA..
 

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I read that , and "Roll center height is designed for street use with wet pavement in mind." still doesn't tell me anything really useful.

Actually, I'd argue that in the wet, quickly taking a set might not be the hot tip. Generally, you soften things up to slow the dynamics down in the wet in order to not "shock" the tires in their compromised-grip condition.


Norm
 

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Who cares about something being better in the rain on the street
Anybody whose track day car pulls double duty as their daily or weekend car should. Anybody who drives wet sessions at track days without being a moving chicane for everybody else in the run group.

If you're serious enough to worry about rear RCH in the dry vs in the wet, you should be running a fully adjustable suspension anyway


Norm
 

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It clears any gear cover advertised as low profile.

One of the main differences between PHBs is what exhaust systems they can be used with.

The other very significant difference is the difference in stiffness of the mounting. This is going to be much more important than whether the rod is 36" or 39" long.

A high rear roll center is good in the rain if you want to drift a lot:)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Cool then. I'm going 3.27, so I might as well put a new cover on. I think the Ford Racing looks the best and is supposed to be shallow..
 

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Anybody whose track day car pulls double duty as their daily or weekend car should. Anybody who drives wet sessions at track days without being a moving chicane for everybody else in the run group.

If you're serious enough to worry about rear RCH in the dry vs in the wet, you should be running a fully adjustable suspension anyway


Norm
I double duty my track car fox, so i understand that and i understadn wet track day sessions. What im saying is why buy a performance part for wet weather street driving, if im on the street and its wet take it easy, im not trying to wreck the car or hurt someone.

Ill think any panhard bar you will be fine in the wet, #### i rallycrossed my fox in snow with summer NT555 tyres,
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ahh thanks man! It looks good in a crappy online pic.. lol

I ordered a MMPHB, so I'll be joining the club. I'm not winning any races, so I'm sure it will be great on the street. I need to get a Torque Arm and some rear Coilovers now. But that's down the line.

If I had the cash, I'd get the whole Griggs setup. The front end deal they offer is the real thing. I still watch this vid, and try to see the apexes as if I were driving. This car sticks, and it's insane..

 
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