Ford Mustang Forums banner

1 - 20 of 41 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
591 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ya i know most people in this subforum dont care about what they 60 foot or run at the 1/4 mile. But my goal was to have an 11 second car I can drive on the street, autox, and eventually road race. I recently went to the track and ran [email protected] with a 1.68 60 foot on ET streets. I hope to be autoxing it next month (i have before, but with less power). And it drives fine on the street.

Basically i want an all around car that is fun doing whatever. Im curious to see what 60 foots you guys have done at the 1/4 mile and still autox/road race your car. Would getting an adjustable coilover set be ideal so I could dial it in for drag, autox, street? I will be going to IRS shortly
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,493 Posts
I can completely relate to you as my goals are identical...even down to the 1/4 mile time.

1.59 60ft
7.47 1/8th ET
95 1/8th MPH
11.89 1/4 ET
117 1/4 MPH

150 shot N20

If you're in to making adjustments to optimize each activity, then i'm sure adjustable shocks and springs would be the way to go.

I prefer to just put it on the car, set it and forget it. Just my style, my preference.

Obviously I used ET Drags for my times, but that was about a year or so ago. I've added alot of stereo system weight and I no longer have my slicks.

I'm still confident I could run a 7.XX in the 1/8th mile. We don't have any close 1/4 mile tracks so I just try to optimize the car for the shorter 1/8ths.

FWIW, i've had my car at a car show Saturday, went to the drag strip later that day, then autocrossed it on Sunday. The only changes made were tires.

Thats my kind of "street car". It kinda makes me laugh when I see all the cars with the "slinky spring suspension" out there running slower. Yes I know alot are faster than me, but I just don't ever see me wanting a car that looks like it couldn't take a right turn at 40mph without rolling over.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
591 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Nice!
Yes, obviously a set it and forget it type would be preferable, but I wouldnt mind some adjusting if it meant just a few turns or clicks of a knob.

What suspension setup did you do the 1.59 on if you dont mind me asking?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,493 Posts
I had the torque arm rear end with the stock K-member/A-arms. I had some 1200lb front springs and 500 or something rear springs.

I've since put all the tubular stuff on the front and gone coilovers. It saved some weight, but I don't think anything to make a difference.

I'm pretty sparatic on my drag racing skills anyway. I'll run a 7.4, but it'll only be after a buttload of 7.8's or 7.9's. :lol:

I think i'm somewhere in the middle of the below video. White GT/near side. It was from a long time ago. I think I ran [email protected] I do know that I was using some 275/50/15 BFG drag radials that run.....with Hoosier 275/40/17 road race CUP tires on the front. :) I'm racing a buddy's teal LT-1 F-body. :)
http://www.streetfire.net/video/joe-at-I40_131452.htm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,493 Posts
Yes. :) It's actually more a 140 shot and it yielded an extra 137whp on the DYNO.

Been 5 years now and about 20 or so bottles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Funny my goals are near the same and my car setup is pretty close too, only I have a 93 Coupe. S-trim, ported E7's, same gears and close to the same boost. MM PHB, MM TQ arm (going on in a few weeks). I'll let you know what I 60 foot in a few weeks, it will be with M/T ET Drag Radials on Pony wheels. I have had the drag suspension and it was fun at the track, but sucked everyplace else.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,493 Posts
Use your head, and do it right the first time....you'll be OK. This is my first experience with nitrous, so i'm quite confident if I can do it, anyone can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
488 Posts
Do any of you guys disconnect the front bar or go low rebound front/high rebound back and other stuff? Or, do the stiffer autocross/track rear springs kind of negate all that weight transfer type stuff?

I have no idea, the only car (I used to run my street bikes) I've run down the strip was my '02 GT stocker...something like 14.8 in 90 degree heat on Victoracers...I could have read the paper and eaten a sandwich, it was so slow.:rofl:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
591 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I got 1.76's out of 275/40r17 RA1's, 12.5 at 108. Had an evm 3-link and 475lb. coilovers in front with Koni DA's, 375 rear CO's. The key is lots of clutch slip!
Agreed, I launched at 4500 slipping out the hole. Hooked good tho lol

I did no suspension adjustments, ran it like I run it on the street and at autox
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,363 Posts
I don't understand the weight transfer idea for a few reasons. First drag springs are usually longer in the front, I understand how that works. The rear springs are usually the same size but softer. This is usually done to allow the weight to shift and the car to squat. But then, people add rear suspension components to help increase the Anti-Squat to really high levels. So on one hand you are trying to make the suspension squat and on the other hand you are forcing the chassis to rise. How do those two things work together?

If "I" were going to the track, I would probably disconnect the sway bar to see if I could get a little extra transfer. It's not that difficult of a task and it supposedly helps with the launch. Either way, I would agree in theory that it is much easier to drag race an autocross car than it is to autocross a drag car. Also if you think about it, some of the fast production cars in the world are not setup with a drag race suspension and still rip off impressive times even though they are setup more toward handling.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
591 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
From what I understand you dont necessarily want it to "squat" cause that is just energy getting lost in the suspension. You want all the weight transferring to the rear tires to increase traction.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
I was told by people smarter than me that you DON'T actually want the rear to squat. You DO want weight to transfer but if the rear is squating a lot, then the suspension is taking the force of the weight that's transferring instead of the tires. You want all the weight on the tires for traction.

1.578-60'
7.27 @ 98.68-1/8
11.304 @ 122.06-1/4

This is with the Griggs TA/PHB, Kmember/Aarms but NOT with the SLA and I had some softer coilovers up front but I don't know that they helped. I couldn't get the car at a good ride height with them so although I they were softer, the front was extremely low/raked, not good for drag racing.

28" Hoosier quick time pros on the rear with Hoosier skinnies on the front.

Tires do make a HUGE difference. I need to go more, this was my first time using these tires and that was just a 3500rpm launch.

Best with 17" 315 BFG drag radials...

1.708-60'
7.5 @ 94-1/8
11.55 @ 123-1/4
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,493 Posts
FWIW, the fastest drag radial car or whatever that class is uses a torque arm suspension style. ;)

As for my launching technique.... 2nd gear burn out till nothin' but white, shallow stage, hold the pedal almost to the floor so the nitrous doesn't activate :) , last yellow comes on-drop the clutch mash the gas and hold on! Nothin' like 1000 bottle psi and a 150 extra hp outta tha hole! ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,363 Posts
Yeah I don't think you want any squat. And a T/A can get up around the 100% anti squat range (I think). I believe that the only time you really would want squat is when you have way too much power for the size tires you are running and you need the suspension to waste a little bit of power initially in order to get a decent bite, but you can still use the HP once you are out of the hole. For everyone else, I think that you are want the tires loaded as much as possible. Either way, I was just commenting on how I think it is weird that some people tune the suspension one way and then the chassis another
 
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
Top