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Discussion Starter #1
Had ongoing misfire issues and electrical issue I thought, possible surge spike as this was hurting my Anderson Motorsports PMS display. Doug @ Efi systems say the above was the cause.
Just put a meter on my optima yellow top battery and it reads 18 volts !!! Same at the 1 wire ar the 3G alternator.
Is this a fried regulator in it. Hope so as this will be a relief to sort it.
Also the Amp or battery red light has not come on at all since new engine and work done on the trans tunnel (dash out) at shop.
I'm positive it should be no more than 14.5 volts.
I know its dumb but I don't usually touch electrics.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Ok, so I took the one wire off the alternator, started and ran (badly still) for say 10-15 seconds. Battery has now gone up to 20!!!
This car had wiring mods before I got it. Strange thing was it had the main starter cable on the right post of solenoid and nothing on the right one (trigger wire)
4 years and a new engine etc; just clicked no start. I move the cable to left post add signal wire to right post and she cranked n started.
I will add a photo of the solenoid with old setup. Have I created an issue doing this?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just got a new meter....12.7 volts... doh!
Not the cause of my electrical issues then
 

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if your starter has a solenoid, the starter power should be hot all the time to the starter, you are only switching the signal to the solenoid on the starter.
 

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Looking at your pic, the starter solenoid is mounted near the shock tower. The solenoid doesn't care which side you put the wire on.....meaning the load side to the starter can be on on term and the battery side can be on the other.......choose. its just a switch controlled by the little wire. You apply 12v to the little terminal and the switch makes and sends voltage to the starter......a heavy duty switch with a coil to pull in the contacts. Just make sure you put all the other stuff on the same side as the battery side of the solenoid.
 
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