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Discussion Starter #1
I want to install a battery relocation box in my LX notch.

Are the wires ran through the interior ,under the carpet, or on the outside? How difficult is the install? If anyone has any pics of their install please post.

Thanks
Eric
 

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Mine looks like poo but I will be redoing my hatch soon with some fiberglass experimenting.



I ran all my wires under the carpet. I thought of doing it underneath the car but I think it is easier and safer running them inside.
 

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Cool, how did you run the power cable from your amp? My battery relocation kit will be going in a coupe so maybe I can hid the wires by placing them between the back seat and battery box. :) Sorry for all the questions, I am not very familiar with car wiring. :)

Eric
 

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Technically, it is safer underneath the car (from fire), but i ran mine through the interior, under the carpet. I used 1/0 welding cable so i really doubt it's going to get very hot.
 

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Another vote for interior- I ran mine behind the back seats, under the carpet (just had to make a small slit where it went under and where it came out under the dash- removed driver side door sill plate and snugged wire in between carpet and floor panel). I used #2 cable and have had no problems. Used 1/4" drill bit to make a hole in the big rubber seal around the steering column (so it wouldn't tear and split) to run the cable into engine compartment.
Conventional wisdom is to run negative ground to quad shock mounting bolt, but I grounded mine to my rear shock tower brace, which is steel not aluminum. Just needs to be grounded to frame and be bare steel, no paint etc.

This link has a TON of info on the subject, hope he doesn't mind...

http://www.buffhomer.corral.net/custom.html
 

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Run the cables in the car - my OP.
Cleaner look. Be smart & they will be just fine as far as safety goes.
Use at least 1 gauge cable or larger. (Welding-cable has more strands & bends
easier). Soulder your lug-ends & heat shrink afterwards. Use two grounding points;
Use the quad-shock mounting bolt is a good grounding point in the rear.
The frame where the stock ground cable up front is a good point for your second ground to use. Measure 5 or six times before you drill to mount the
batt-box in the back,.. It's real tight back there. And, drop the gas tank before you start drilling! You can leave the tank up with the help of a friend or a jack. Do the filler neck & the pass side strap. Then just loosen the driverside strap and tilt the tank to get to the bolts for mounting your box. Good luck!
 

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Eric93Cobra said:
Cool, how did you run the power cable from your amp?
The power cable from my amp goes to the cut-off switch I have hidden behind my license plate. My future plans are to put the battery and amp in the spare tire well and make a fiberglass cover which the battery box will protrude from but hopefully hide the amp completely. Then I'll mold a fiberglass speaker box in one corner. :joy:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
kikboxr1 said:
The power cable from my amp goes to the cut-off switch I have hidden behind my license plate. My future plans are to put the battery and amp in the spare tire well and make a fiberglass cover which the battery box will protrude from but hopefully hide the amp completely. Then I'll mold a fiberglass speaker box in one corner. :joy:
I am going to build a box to fit in the spare tire well with a plexiglass window for my amp and mount the speaker to the side.

ForcedAir91GT- Man that set up look awesome. Where did you get those hinges for the license plate?

Thanks for the help

Eric
 

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Taylor box...The spring-loaded plate holder thingy is from a '67 GTO. But you can get one from any car from the boneyard that has the filler tube for gas behind the plate.
I just used 4 old end-link rubber bushings & bolts to bump the plate out a bit to clear
the cut off switch. It all comes off real quick for the track and, no extra drilling was needed to mount it all. When it's up, you could never tell the switch is behind there. (Figured I had already drilled enough holes in the poor car just to finish the whole mount-your-battery-in-the-trunk-thing.
 

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Eric, If you plan to switch to the '93-up mini starter,(not a bad idea with rear mount battery) then run your cable down the passenger side instead.
 

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I ran mine through the interior also. I had GRC in Mission Viejo, Ca rewire mine, because I didn't like the way it looked. They did something that I thought was pretty clean. Where they bolted the box to the body, they welded the nut that holds one of the holddown bolts. So, that's a built-in ground. The negative battery cable never has to leave the battery box, so there is only one cable coming out. That saves a little bit of cable and looks a little bit cleaner.

I did this for my cutoff switch. I bought a used taillight, drilled a hole in it, and just use that at the track. I didn't want anything permanent on my street car, and didn't want anyone being able to walk by and shut off my system as a prank.

 

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I mounted mine behind the passenger seat where the back seat used to be. Ran the wires through the floor along the subframe connector and up the fire wall to the relay. I moved the relay from the driverside fender to the passenger side firewall where the a/c equip sat. This way the battery cable doesn't have to run all the way across to the front driverside and back to the starter. The start wire just goes straight down to the starter. Also cleans up the front fender area too.
 

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carrew said:
I moved the relay from the driverside fender to the passenger side firewall where the a/c equip sat.
I like that idea.

The shorter the battery cable run, the easier it is to get the engine cranked over.

I still have the solenoid on the drivers side, but instead of battery cable -> to solenoid -> down to starter

Mine goes battery cable -> main lug on mini starter (hot all time) -> back up through "old" starter cable -> to solenoid, where alll the other ring terminals are in original location.

I have only 4 gauge wire from battery to mini starter (what I already had around) and have never had any cranking problems.
 

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I think I mustbe crazy, but the instructions that come with my taylor box says that to be NHRA legal the box and battery should be "mounted securely to the vehicle's frame". So my problem is how to do that exactly. I've taken pics to show my problem:
To clarify my problem, I took some pics.

OK I've marked basically where the frame is:


Now, then it seems most people have something like this going on:


But note where the mounting holes go:
Nowhere near the frame rail!


The only thing that gets me even close, and allows the trunk to actually close is this sideways arrangement:


Even with this positioning though, I can't get the holes far enough to the outside of the car to go through frame, because the fuel filler neck hits the outside of the bottom part of the battery box.
 

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Just drill new holes where you want them.

I went one further, and tack welded a steel plate 1/8" thick under the battery tray to mount to, so the whole mounting area is very solid and flat. No tech has ever had a problem with it.
 

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Linc's 93 Splash said:
Just drill new holes where you want them.

I went one further, and tack welded a steel plate 1/8" thick under the battery tray to mount to, so the whole mounting area is very solid and flat. No tech has ever had a problem with it.
I agree, I don't think that you'll ever have a tech that will verify that the bolts go through the actual frame, especially considering that our cars don't have a full frame anyway.

I checked one NHRA frequently asked questions site, and it doesn't mention exactly where the box needs to be mounted. It mentions that it must be sealed completely from the driver and/or driver compartment, but not that it must be mounted directly to frame rails. It may say that in the rules, but I can't imagine that you would get hassled for that.

http://www.nhra.com/contacts/tech_faq.html
 

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I just pulled out most of the interior and ran my wires under the carpet mattting. The ghetto way is to stuff it under your carpet/trim...then you have wire lumps. Much easier with the interior out, makes for a cleaner install in the end.

Also keep your signal wires (RCA/speaker) away from power wires. Most ghetto installs I've seen they zip-tie RCA/speaker wires to power cables.....big no-no. Run them down seperate sides of the vehicle if possible. It's like having a nice JLW7 sub and using a crappy Sony Explod or Kenwood amp with it.

I built a custom plexi glass amp rack in my spare tire well so I was able to tap power from the rear (much nicer now instead of tapping from the front). hth

This is how I wired mine: http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=701197&highlight=buffh*
 
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