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Discussion Starter #1
Hello to all,

I'm getting ready to tackle this project and have a few last questions.

I know I need a 150 amp fuse and equally rated fuse holder. Who makes a good, cheap inline fuse holder for ANL fuses and if the fuse is slow blow, do you need a special fuse holder? I've found a few car stereo fuse holders for around $15 that accept 2ga wire but is one brand better than another? Why would some be $40 and others $15? Can someone direct me to a part number or website?

Secondly, I'm confused about fuse location. I've seen people put the fuse in the back by the battery or in the front by the alternator. Here is my question, If you put it in the back, if the short happens inbetween the alternator and the fuse, does the fuse ever detect that short? My thinking is that the short becomes the new travel point for the electricity and therefore, the fuse never sees that short. But if the fuse were closer to the alternator, there would be less unfused wire. The fuse is to protect the wire after it correct?? (since the current is traveling to the back of the car, the longer section should be the section after the fuse in the front???) So Basically, does the fuse need to be in the engine compartment?

Thanks!
-Dale
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Can anyone answer at least one of the questions?
 

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The fusible links are there to disconnect the source of the power from a potential short. I have two on my set up. I have a 150A link that's placed in the 4 ga. cable running from my alternator output to the hot distribution block in the engine compartment. It's placed as close to the alternator connection as I could reasonably get it. The other is a 250A fusible link placed in the double-2-ga. hot cable running from my battery in the trunk. It's placed as close to the battery as I could place it.

Place your fusible links so as much of wire is protected from a ground short as possible - that means close to the power source. If you have 20' of cable running from your hot terminal on the battery, and you place the link in the last 2', the first 18' are unprotected. Also, starters pull large amounts of current especially on a hot start up. Check the amperage rating on your starter - 150A may not be large enough for the battery cable protection. I sourced mine at stereo stores.
 

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You can get a Mega-fuse holder from West Marine for $10, as I recall. It has bolt terminals so you'll need to put ring terminals on your cable to connect it. Megafuses are available in sizes up to 200 amps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
They wanted $24 or so last I checked so I bought a $15 stereo one and I'll buy a slow-blow 150A fuse from the marine place. Now all I need are the ring terminals. What size though? 5/16 or 3/8?

Thanks!
-Dale
 

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The mega-fuse holder I have has 3/8 terminals on it. You'll probably want to put some shrink tubing on the terminal.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Is that the same size used on the alternator, solenoid etc???
 

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I think so, yes.
 

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Michael Yount said:
The fusible links are there to disconnect the source of the power from a potential short. I have two on my set up. I have a 150A link that's placed in the 4 ga. cable running from my alternator output to the hot distribution block in the engine compartment. It's placed as close to the alternator connection as I could reasonably get it.
I think the original poster is referring to an NHRA legal setup where the alternator cable has to go to the back directly to the battery (or the cutoff switch). But, in either case, you have a source at each end.

I have my alternator cable fuse mounted at the back right near the battery. My logic being that the battery is live all the time and the alternator is only live when the motor is running. Also, Ford puts the stock fusible links from the alternator near the starter solenoid, not near the alternator.

I guess the theoretical optimum solution would be a fuse at each end of the alternator cable. :)
 

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Yeah, that's true. Ah well, I put mine up by the alternator (150amp Megafuse on a 130amp alternator):

 
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