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Formerly BLOWN1989SALEEN
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Discussion Starter #1
this problem im having started right AFTER i relocated my battery to the hatch. the car will be running normally, for example at a cruise the A/F is at say 13.7 and will go to 11.0.....while cruising????????(A/F is measured with a Tech Edge WBO2 that was dead on with the dyno A/F i pulled on) then at other times it will go lean, it does this at idle too, perfect one minute, rich another and lean another? the battery is grounded with a 1/0 cable to the quad shock mount and charges strong and starts strong so i dont see it being a bad battery ground. i grounded the motor from the stock timing cover spot to the sway bar mount with a 2ga cable, i then grounded the ECU from the stock spot to the swaybar mount with a 10ga wire. Pro-M recommends i run another 10ga directly from the battery NEG- up to the ECU ground. could this be my problem? BTW the O2 sensors have been replaced(normal maintanance) and this problem has occured with TWO different Pro-M 80mm MAF's so you can pretty much rule these out.



Thanks, Scott
 

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I am relocating my battery as well and quite a few responses have said to be sure and run the ground up to the motor. Can someone explain why? I mean isn't the frame of the vehicle better than grounding to the engine when thats just grounded to the frame with a little strap attached to the timing cover.I would really like a detailed explanation on that one. Any electrical engineers out there?
 

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Run two grounds,.. One to the frame from the motor up front.
At least 2 gauge or thicker.
Run the ground in the back to a Quad-shock mounting plate bolt.
 

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I am planning on 1 gauge but WHY????? do I have to run 15ft up to the front? Anyone??
 

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does anybody have pictures of the wiring, that is easily identfiable? I was just gonna run the positive to the starter solineod, and then the ground to somewhere on the back of where the tailights are. So the ground that was on the front do you need to drill a hole and ruff up the paint and ground it to the frame too? And what is up with the ecu thing? Do you have to do this? I have heard plenty of people havent and havent had any problems? -J
 

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Formerly BLOWN1989SALEEN
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Discussion Starter #7
buffhomer said:
Put a ground from the battery to the subframe rail, and one from the engine block to the subframe rail up front.

Go to my site and look at my pics.

http://buffhomer.corral.net/custom.html

http://buffhomer.corral.net/photo5.html
buff, i actually went off of your site when i did the relocation, but Pro-m swears i need to run the 10ga ground directly from the battery NEG up to the stock ECU ground, i mean it makes sense as this problem didnt start till AFTER the battery relocation;)

Scott
 

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pricha00 said:
I am relocating my battery as well and quite a few responses have said to be sure and run the ground up to the motor. Can someone explain why? I mean isn't the frame of the vehicle better than grounding to the engine when thats just grounded to the frame with a little strap attached to the timing cover.
the part that draws the most amps is the starter . The starter is bolted to the engine . The engine sits on rubber mounts . Ya wid me here ?

So you want a good solid ground to the engine .

Then ofcourse you have to run headlights , and power windows ..... so thats why you need a body to battery ground also . Or you can run it from the engine to the body .
 

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Pro-M is a garage full of morons. Did you put all the grounds on there? The one from block to frame rail, battery to frame rail, and the 10ga from body to frame rail?

Check them all.
 

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i ran 2guage up to the front and a 1/0 grounde from batt to quad shock bolt, given i have solid motor mounts and not nearly as many sensors since im carb'ed i am not sure what to tell ya but i have no problems with a stock alt.,it evens charges up to 15.5 volts
 
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