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Discussion Starter #1
I know this kit is discontinued, but looking at a set of C5 calipers and Mustang specific abutments. Caliper will be identical to the Baer GT plus kit

Baer GT Plus Brake Kit | JEGS

Does that caliper setup clear the 17x8 SN95 wheel?
 

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Edit: I might have spoken to soon. The first product is a fourteen inch rotor? How big of a rotor are you looking at?
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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Discussion Starter #4
Well,

It's tight. But does clear. Need to get some pads for final test fit before confirming everything OK

 

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i thought the corvette calipers used a thicker rotor... 13 x 1.25?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i thought the corvette calipers used a thicker rotor... 13 x 1.25?

They do. 13.4" x 1.25", vs 13.1" x 1.1".

I'm using Mustang specific abutments, and will never put enough miles on the setup to worry about the pistons extending out too far.


I believe there are 13 x 1.25" options for the Mustang as well



BTW:, the part number for the Mustang specific abutments is Baer: CBK 322325
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just to update. Got this project done. Of course, snow now flying up here, so won't be able to head out to bed in the brakes and give them a try.

I'll eventually get my OE Ford cobra rotors resurfaced, but in the meantime trying out some "bling" rotors for my street cruising.

The rotors are 13" Cobra, the brackets are Baer p/n P/N CBK322325 which were $135 each, and the calipers are obviously GM, but a few other vehicles share the same casting. 05-06 GTO, and the caliper that comes in the Baer GT plus kit I mentioned before.

Fit is very OEM, and these share the same 40mm pistons my Mach 1 calipers had. I love how the pad sweeps more of the rotor face. One of my peeves of the cobra style brakes.


 

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Discussion Starter #10
They are R1 concepts E-line rotors I got off ebay for under $200


Eventually, I do want to look into the 1.25" thick 2-peice rotors. These were just something to put on for now to get some instant eye appeal.
 

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Is there even enough room there for tape-weights on the wheel?

Got me scratching my chin anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Is there even enough room there for tape-weights on the wheel?

Got me scratching my chin anyways.
The caliper clears the rim with plenty of space, so not worried there. But tape weights would be close. I have some, so if i get a chance soon, i'll attach one and jack up the wheel and give it a spin.

The weights on my wheels are mounted on the outer rim, so not an issue for me, but i would like to run tape weights if i can.

Hard to get a sense of the gap from these pics however. (damage on caliper was preexisting. Why i only paid $50 for it brand new)


 

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Discussion Starter #14
Is there even enough room there for tape-weights on the wheel?

Got me scratching my chin anyways.
Putting a new set of rims on. These are for the street, so I want to run tape weights.

It's close. That's a 1/2" wide wheel weight, and the inside corner is maybe 2-3mm from the fin on the caliper? Caliper is pretty fixed, so not a lot of movement, and as it wears, the caliper will draw inwards away from the weight.

Need to decide. Should I run the 1/2" wide tape weights right to the outer edge of the inner rim portion as shown? I'd imagine there's not that much deflection. Again...this set of rims is for street driving only...to local coffee shop

 

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Putting a new set of rims on. These are for the street, so I want to run tape weights.

It's close. That's a 1/2" wide wheel weight, and the inside corner is maybe 2-3mm from the fin on the caliper? Caliper is pretty fixed, so not a lot of movement, and as it wears, the caliper will draw inwards away from the weight.

Need to decide. Should I run the 1/2" wide tape weights right to the outer edge of the inner rim portion as shown? I'd imagine there's not that much deflection. Again...this set of rims is for street driving only...to local coffee shop

I have my wheels static balanced and place the weights on the extreme inside of the wheel, nearest the engine to keep them as far away from the brakes as I can because the brake heat used to make the adhesive let go. Should work for you too.
 

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On my various wheels over the years I've seen tire shops do it both ways - tape weights all the way out to the backs of the spokes, and tape weights towards the inside lip - so I think either way is perfectly fine.
 

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If you run that car on the track, I'd be surprised if those tape weights aren't gone after a track day (ask me how I know). :)
 

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I tape over mine with aluminum tape, they don't drop off in the paddock anymore LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If you run that car on the track, I'd be surprised if those tape weights aren't gone after a track day (ask me how I know). :)
If they were track wheels, i wouldn't go this route, but like I said, these are just my "go get a coffee" street wheels.

Anyway, I did have the wheels balanced with the tape weights in that spot. Test fits were fine, plenty of clearance. Gonna run it like that.
 

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I tape over mine with aluminum tape, they don't drop off in the paddock anymore LOL
ahhhh....is that the trick to keeping those suckers on ! :surprise:

...I've had so many fall off, I don't even bother balancing my wheels any more :grin2:
 
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