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Does anyone know if the baer brakes slotted and drilled rotors can be cut/resurfaced like you do for regular rotors on a brake job? If so, what places will do this, or wouold i have to send them back to baer or buy new ones...

while im finishing up the rest of the car projects, now is a good time to get the brakes cleaned up too...seems like at highway speeds when i hit the brakes, i get a lot of noise and vibration off the brakes.. i dont recall hearing or feeling this on a few friends cars tht have the same setups, but its been a while since i rode in one of those cars...

thanks
 

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I went to 4 different places to try to get my old slotted rotors re-surfaced. No one wanted to even try. Some BS about the bits skipping and chipping due to the voids.

When I was a wrench, we cut some of the nastiest, crusty, rusted out crap you'd ever seen and it was never a problem. 10+ years into my new 'phone guy' career, I don't have the 'in' like I used to.

Good luck. Maybe try to call Baer and see what they think?
 

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Any rotor lathe operator CAN do it. Whether they will or not is a different story.

Just another in a long list of reasons not to run rotors like that ;)
 

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But, they LOOK so COOL!!! And, and, and ,,uh,uh,uhmm, they you know, help with the 'outgassing' of the pads. And the holes help cool the rotors, and......



Full disclosure, I have drilled and slotted on my car. When they wear out, the old solid brembos are going back on.
 

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Any rotor lathe operator CAN do it. Whether they will or not is a different story.
I used to run a brake lathe back when i was in high school (back then the rotors were made of stone and we use pterodactyl teeth for inserts.)

The problems most shops have with turning is that the mouth-breathers working there don't have a clue when it comes to turning a rotor. They take WAY to deep of a cut in order to speed up the process. Taking a deep cut not only gives you a crappy finish (the tool is moving around a lot under the strain of cutting all that material,) but will break the insert if it hits a hole or slot. Several LIGHT passes (0.002" to 0.005") will get the job done.

Shops also have a big incentive to ruin your rotor so they can sell you new ones. I've seen 'em take rotors down to the point where it's below the minimum thickness when there was absolutely no reason to. A 0.010" clean-up cut would have done to resurface the rotor, yet they took off over 0.100" and then miked the rotor, declaring it junk.

These days, I never have my rotors resurfaced. If the surface needs cleaning up, I hit it with a Rolock disc loaded with aluminum oxide sandpaper to get any pad deposits off (the only reason I resurface my rotors.) I run'em, cracks, gouges and all, until they hit the minimum thickness all on their own.
 

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You could make friends at a Chevy dealership. Z51 Corvettes come stock with drilled rotors so maybe they would have some experience with this.

That said - I never resurface rotors, even on my racecar. Sandpaper and a few hot laps - no problem. I also don't run drilled/slotted rotors.

Scott Peterson
85 Mustang GT
83 Mazda Rx7 STU racecar
 

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These days, I never have my rotors resurfaced. If the surface needs cleaning up, I hit it with a Rolock disc loaded with aluminum oxide sandpaper to get any pad deposits off (the only reason I resurface my rotors.)
mustanghammer said:
That said - I never resurface rotors, even on my racecar. Sandpaper and a few hot laps - no problem.
Bingo! I wouldn't even bother trying to get the fancy drilled/slotted rotors turned. I just use the Scotchbrite discs on my drill, takes about 20 or 30sec per rotor face to scuff the surface so the new pads can bed in properly. That method has worked just fine for me with street and track rotors on 2 cars for 10 years now.
 

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any brake lathe can turn them as stated above just about every newer m-benz has drilled and slotted rotors and we turn them just like every other rotor with no issues .005 is the min our machine can cut per side without over heating the lathe's bits (they turn blue)
 

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I agree with "Scuff them up and bed in the new pads".

If they are crapped up and coated unevenly to the point that this doesn't work, the above 4 or 5 posts have real world valuable info in them.

I HATE CUTTING ROTORS!!! They get used up so fast it is a huge waste, IMHO at least for me.

If you have a set of full on race pads I have used those before to remove a botched bed in job that I messed up, just be careful because they do not stop cold very well at all, I was pretty much stopping with my rear street pads during this adventure. They will however remove previous pad coating when they are cold, they are quite abrasive when not up to operating temp.
It did work.

Not a fan of drilled rotors and slotted are also just less surface area IMHO.
I would wear them out and chuck em.
 
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