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Alright, Updating this post as of March 23, 2019 as have had the car for over a month and have figured some more out on it:)



Have had many stangs - far too many but most have been SN95 or newer, and to make a very long story short. I now own a 1983 4 Eye Notch that has my 347 bottom end I built then sold to my father back in 2012, it was oil bagged and sitting in my office prior to my 2nd marriage. Fast forward in 2013 my dad found the old Notch and built the car around the engine I basically gave to him. Now fast forward and mother and father divorced after 44 years of marriage and part of the settlement (the divorce was finalized 2 years ago but they owned businesses together) was my dad has to buy out my mothers side of the businesses. So he has to sell off toy's, he hasn't ran the car at the track but around 30 times and the entire build has less than 350 miles on the engine, semi built AOD, and the other parts. He did splurge and get AFR205's but cheaped on alot of other stuff.



I'm trying to go through the mountains of paperwork he included when I went from Florida to La to pick up the car and figure out what I have. I have no idea what compression ratio is, no idea what Torque converter or kit is in the AOD, figured out from site it's a Hurricane intake manifold, found cam card in the paperwork and now know it has a CC295 cam which equals no vaccum and horrible 1983 stock brakes. I did get an electronic vaccum assist for the brakes and will throw in this weekend. IT still has some leftover race gas in it from ~ 2015 but not sure how much.



So -

The good that I'm sure of:



XXX block 302, with Forged 347 and all machine work was done by my local Brevard County machinest - rings were file fit by me back in the day but don't recall what type of rings, has KB forged piston types but does have girdle and all clearances made inside and crank was knife edged when I had the work done....

AFR 205's

Completely hogged out and ported PP Hurricane intake - this is not really a good but it's better than other options and it's port matched to the AFR 205's

Double roller CC timing chain setup

CC stud mount Roller rockers

The carb is box stock Holley 750 so ALOT of HP on the table when I get all the leaded gas ran out and can put my new in the box Wideband on it for tuning in the Carb.

Brand new FMS 3.73's setup perfectly.

Paint and bodywork is pretty good except for bumpers and not completely straight, it will last years till my OCD moves from drivetrain improvments and safety to Dialing in looks.

Has gas tank sumped and baffled but ran external electric pump instead of internal

1 3/4 long tube headers



The Goodish - undecided if this is good or not

The trans is reverse manual valvebody - no idea what kind but it goes 1,2,3,OD and OD is on a switch to turn off for track use.

B&M shifter with Reverse lockout - it's all loose but will tighten it up.

Has full cage - would be good but he cut and the welds look like #### - wouldn't pass tech if I start getting too fast

Has QA1 subframe and QA1 control arms - I would have good but had bad luck in the past with QA1 setups so it's "goodish"

DUI distributor and ignition with Box and pills - I put this as goodish as won't work with planned EFI and e85 - Has 7k pill in it currently



The Bad - That I have found in around 90 minutes of looking:

No name rear suspension components -

GRIPP subframe connectors that are thrown in

Horrible interior that is missing ALOT

Bumpers are no where near straight - probably get the lower front air damn and the front will be good, the urethane on you can find specifically for the 83 and it will make the front 100%;-)

No trim pieces on outside - will go with the Black trim all around the car

It's still 4 lug and has 28 spline

Brakes are completely ####

Manual Steering but not Flaming river, it's one of the off brand manual racks and is not the quick ratio...

Don't know compression ratio and not pulling heads to figure it out due to expensive head gaskets and intake mainifold gaskets

Car has ran nothing but leaded fuel - AVGAS and VP 110 since being built so plugs, timing, fuel filters all need to be adjusted for pump gas - Dad had paid someone and he has aftermarket Cat's immediately after the Longtube collectors, no crossover pipe and has 3" collectors down to 2.5" pipe into the Cats, then 2.5" to 3" mufflers, then steps back down to 2.5" taipipes one of which is rusted out...

Has Florida Antique Tags now;-)



With that - wish me luck - single income married Father of 3 that is completing 2nd Masters degree currently so time is definitely at a premium. I will start a build thread and put this all in it - but the progress will be slow for a bit with mainly tinker and tuning but eventually will be E85 Fuel injected and even further down the road will be 6 speed manual and my OCD for perfection in all things cars will take over and hope to have it as one of the better looking cars on here.



I did trade some BBS RK's 18x7.5's so too small ( had on my daily driver 2017 Civic Si) this morning for a full set of 18x9 and 18x10 Chrome Saleens and a 31 Spline cobra Traklock so the rear 31 spline swap and disk brakes are in motion - slowly but it's moving lol.



Here are a few pic's if I can get them to attach:
 

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Thanks guys, the front bumper is staying for a while - the last aspect I will hit on this build will be the outside other than Wheels and tires as when I change the brakes to 4 wheel disk going to 5 lug and 31 spline. The 18" Saleen's I'll give a shot but think they will be too big so they will probably be Temporary. Due to how the car is setup it will be Street/Strip and probably go back to big and little's but of course a 17" front skinny, and a 15" rear over the disk setup.

If I had money like I think I do would all happen faster, but I will say the rear bumper would be useless to anyone - the wave in the back they attempted to bondo or fill or something and it doesn't look good at all. Teh front bumper is in surprisingly good condition, May just paint the headlight surrounds and the trim to Satin black to match the trim pieces when I put them back on.
 

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Well got the car here last week in Jan, then got laid off the following week so progress is slow, but did hit the track last night for the baseline passes and runs, no changes other than putting a tank of 93 in.

That was a mistake, and I have a starting point but in order to get into the 12's i had to put 5 gallons of 110 in and slosh it around.

That's easy enough to fix but was a fairly frustrating night. I have lots of pics and some vids to edit but it was breaking up and pretty sure getting fuel wash, had surging first few passes but it evened out just had the breaking up, no detonation.

Oh well, now I can start throwing what I have in the garage on the car, and cool thing was my dad and uncles came over and that's why i ended up hitting the track!

Best was 12.81 at 100.5, this was mearly baseline runs and now I have a starting point, plugs, fuel filter, timing, and carb tuning enroute as well as dropping the cats and getting the 3" setup on after the longtubes, as well as the A/F guage in ASAP.
 

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Well pulled and read the plugs - they were gapped at .58, and are Autolite 3922's....

I cleaned them with wire wheel and brake clean as they were pretty bad, gapped them at .42 and threw them in. Car didn't like that.....

So picking up some Autolite 3924's OR some NGK 6962's which I think I'll try but with the DUI ignition and distributor I will gap them considerably I believe they come at .34, I'm going to take them to .42 to attempt and then set the base timing to 10 degree's and go from there, I'm expecting around 32 degree's of timing to be the happy point but will make my way to it slowly.

Also picking up a spacer for the air filter assembly and will probably strip the chrome off of it and throw a cheap paper filter I have in there for now. I will eventually go with one of the tops with the filter on the top and the sides and I'm going to measure tomorrow to see what size I can fit in the cutout inside the hood.

Exhaust - priced out what I needed to make the 3" pro-chamber I have work and that's not going to happen right now. So will be buying a Cheap X pipe kit and welding that in with what I have. Eventually when the funds allow will replace everything - the headers, midpipe, and catback and will go with 3" at that time - I hope.... Once I have the cats out and some better flow I'm sure i'll be happy with the headers and mid assembly but the tailpipes will be getting attention before the remainder of the exhaust - even if it means I go with dumps for the time being as the one tailpipe is completely rusted out and the hangers used are the reason...

Anyway - until tomorrow!
 

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Got to work on the exhaust today:)

Pro-Chamber is in:) Have to finish flow-tubes tomorrow but used the front of the Pro-chamber to attach to the flow-tubes, need to cut the step downs out tomorrow and tie in the tubes and then enjoy the new sound and power:)

Now has a balance/crossover tube, LT's to the 3" pro chamber to 3" mufflers - but alas will still be running the 2.5" tailpipes for now at least, and when I do the tailpipes will probably go wiht Spintech mufflers as these are IMCO, not Flowmaster 40's like I was told...

BTW, yes it's flux core welded - but it's solid:)
 

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Alot of work into the car recently not alot of updates on here though lol.

First - did some digging and since Exhaust mods to get the header back to tailpipe situation dialed in I haven't touched exhaust to cut and add my 22" tips to finish it up. Did get the proper exhaust hanger mounts just have to get them installed then line up and weld the finishing touches. Also have ran a few times so now have the pinholes in the full exhaust marked properly to remove the final time and touch up all the welds. Will rework my drivers side muffler to tailpipe welding as well as I really don't like what I did - I ran out of wire as well but have some better wire and etc..

I have had brake issues since day one and my dad had a little vaccum pump he threw in but with the electrical issues - just old wiring and don't trust it really - I chose to go vaccum canister - added it in and Wow - have good vaccum now and sensitive pedal finally not going to the floor - but alas brakes still suck. So will bleed and tweak and pretty sure he has the drums way out of adjustment for burnouts - know that adjusting the rear drums will help so will do that until I can build up the parts for proper 5 lug swap and disk all the way around.

Wired in an adjustable fan relay as well - and it didn't work... Ended up going for a 4-5 mile drive coming home and spitting coolant - my temp gauge didn't register so due to the location of the temp sensor I know it's the thermostat failing, at least I'm hoping as I picked up a new 180 and will throw it in one evening this week. I say it's the thermostat due to it never opening and therefore my gauge not registering - have the heavy duty electric water pump so hoping it's the thermostat and it's a cheap 4 dollar replacement so giving it a shot anyway;-)

Ordering a vaccum guage so can properly adjust the carb as I set the idle now - it was way off after the exhaust changes – Imagine that going from clogged cat’s and all the stepdowns and stepups in exhaust to a true 3” with an actual crossover…. Idle is around 950 now in park and around 800 in gear so what I consider good until I get the vaccum pump and can adjust the idle air mixture properly.

The big thing is when I looked up the carb it’s not a 750… It’s a 80531 which is an 850 and one hell of a carb – the FI dreams have to wait for a while so broke out my old Holley book and will be using it as a guide to learn and tune – hell may even end up staying carb for a long time😊

Picked up some METCO adjustable upper control arms – and some Metco lower arms for a song so will be installing those, but will be doing a bunch to the rear at the same time. Ordering up some battle boxes and will bolt in and then weld them, remove the rear seat as it’s unusable anyway and probably go with a bare aluminum theme in the inside of the car. Will replace the stock gauges with an aluminum sheet, do the door cards in aluminum, probably do the matching rear seat delete and the center console will get the same treatment as well as the dash where appropriate.
The fuel system will get relocated as well – there is a good 12” from the sump to the location of the Holley blue now – and I’m quite certain the fuel filter is pretty dirty so will pull and clean it – the 100 micron setup and then mount it lower – thinking rear of the car directly behind the bash bar or on the bash bar of the back bumper. It may be a little visible but eventually will replace pump and will be able to hide it better!
I also ended up getting to a proper 14”x 3” air filter – and had to cut the inside of the hood under the crap cowl to make it fit – have to go back and clean up the cuts with a Dremel as the sheet metal cuts look like crap, then need to seal it all up. I live within 2 miles of Kaenen Hoods here in Melbourne so will get a 2.5” or 3” cowl made up in the near future – but it’s low on the list as drivability and dialing in on pump gas is the first concern for me!

I will say this – with the changes I have made, including pumping out all the old gas that was a mix of “water, pump, 3 year old C12, and 5 gallons of 110” the car is now running harder than it ever has through 1st and 2nd at least since I’ve owned it on the pump gas. The vaccum advance on the DUI ignition setup I have is 30 – so have to verify the base timing and then try to dial it all in from there so it’s not breaking up in top of 3rd like last time at the track with the crap fuel! Hard to tell how it’s doing until I get it on the track.
I did get my A/F guage all mounted and hooked up but need to run power to it, then will be able to really start to watch and understand. Have to run an inside vaccum guage as well but have an old one just need the plumbing for it but will be dialing in SOON!!!!

Will throw some pics in soon!
 

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Got to work on the exhaust today:)

Pro-Chamber is in:) Have to finish flow-tubes tomorrow but used the front of the Pro-chamber to attach to the flow-tubes, need to cut the step downs out tomorrow and tie in the tubes and then enjoy the new sound and power:)

Now has a balance/crossover tube, LT's to the 3" pro chamber to 3" mufflers - but alas will still be running the 2.5" tailpipes for now at least, and when I do the tailpipes will probably go wiht Spintech mufflers as these are IMCO, not Flowmaster 40's like I was told...

BTW, ywes it's flux core welded - but it's solid:)
Didn't notice it the first time I looked at these pics, but your driveshaft is seriously too short. Once you start running the et this car should go, you'll start twisting the splines in your yoke. Car looks good, lose the tailpipes asap. Put turndowns.
 

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Didn't notice it the first time I looked at these pics, but your driveshaft is seriously too short. Once you start running the et this car should go, you'll start twisting the splines in your yoke. Car looks good, lose the tailpipes asap. Put turndowns.
Damn - hadn't even looked at it - will have to measure it out hoping that the new upper and lower control arms with the upper adjustable will help it dial in a little better. Car was at full droop so when it's on the wheels will measure it out for sure to be safe. The tailpipes I have a fix for it just need to cut and weld them on!
 

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Updates since I have a few minutes at work - going to upload a few vids as well to youtube then link them here or make a new reply in a bit as well.

Picked up a proper vaccum guage for tuning in the Idle air mixture and to assist in some other items.

Next items are:

Address the lack of flow/overheating issue - Have to rewire the fan controller as sure it not kicking on is my fault with the wiring - then hide the wiring as best I can. Throw the new thermostat in and make sure that super nice expensive electric water pump is actually working...

The fuel pump relocation to get rid of the 10-12" of raise coming out of the tank - to get my angles and measurements and order up fuel lines (undecided on PTFE or Push Pin both E85 standard as of yet). Clean the inline filter setup i have and decide if I'm going with new filter setups or not as well.

Then will dremel and seal the hood and test it at speed.

Tune the carb for the proper idle air mixture and get idle dialed in. Tweak the timing a bit once that is done, finish wiring in the A/F gauge to help dial it all in and keep an eye on the fuel while driving and obviously to help tweak the tune beyond the idle/air setup.

Pull exhaust from Muffler back to resolve any leaks - have some pinhole ones and throw the tailpipes and hangers on...

Install the Metco upper and lower control arms and get proper pinion angle at ride height.

Then prior to track day have to do some brake adjustments and drive to work a few times.

Ordered cluster lights - so will pull the cluster an replace the lights as only one is workign and when I drive to track it's good, but on way back can't see anything.

Ordered Battle boxes so when doing the tank drop, exhaust fixes, and fuel pump relocation will throw the battle boxes in - remove the rear seats and take measurements to build a rear seat delete - have to take the back seat option away as my youngest wants to get back there and it's useless with the roll cage in it.... Also went ahead and ordered a UPR 79-14 FORD MUSTANG 8.8 REAR END STUD GIRDLE | UPR with the main stud's support so will change fluid and throw that on as have a small leak back there currently....

So have stuff building up - but coming up on Finals week next few weeks and have two 25 page papers due by the 17th and haven't started them - so not sure when I'll get the bulk of this done - but hoping to get it all done and get back out to track SOON! Realistically hoping before the end of month it's all done!

To help with this - I will be making room in the garage so next purchases will be some shelving supports - and boards to enable some changing of the garage and allow me to park the car in there - all of the wiring - torque boxes, tank relocation, rear diff - hell most of it can be done in my garage after hours when my wife and kids go to sleep - that will help me meet the self imposed requirement of getting back to track by end of the month.

Then throw on I have to strip the paint - claybar, and wax the car as I got overspray ALL over the damn thing from when I stained my fence:(

Figure i'll throw in some pics:

First was trying to track down jet sizes for the Carb and this stamp is what showed me I have an 850 Carb not a 750 like was told:)

2nd was me pumping out the 4-5 year old mixture of Water, Pump, C16, and VP110 so I don't waste time tuning and tweaking the carb and timing to fuel I'm not going to be using. Has 5 gallons of pump 93 in it now.

3rd was the new Filter - have changed the bottom now - this was a flat one and required a spacer to clear the DUI ignition, now have an Offset one but have a true 14"x3" filter on it.

Last is what the hood looked like at the end of that day. It looks better now but I have been bad about taking pics -
 

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Few vid's - just threw on youtube - no editing etc - they are rough...

First start After exhaust changes:


2nd Start after exhaust changes:


From the track night when went out with no changes - in car was a 13.3:( Can hear the car breaking up in 2nd and 3rd if you listen

Expect video's to improve - and will start doing ALOT more content in the future once the 2nd Master's degree is complete in July!!!!

Vid from my 12.83 pass by my uncle - compression messed this video up but long way to go with this one...
 

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Alot of work into the car recently not alot of updates on here though lol.

First - did some digging and since Exhaust mods to get the header back to tailpipe situation dialed in I haven't touched exhaust to cut and add my 22" tips to finish it up. Did get the proper exhaust hanger mounts just have to get them installed then line up and weld the finishing touches. Also have ran a few times so now have the pinholes in the full exhaust marked properly to remove the final time and touch up all the welds. Will rework my drivers side muffler to tailpipe welding as well as I really don't like what I did - I ran out of wire as well but have some better wire and etc..

I have had brake issues since day one and my dad had a little vaccum pump he threw in but with the electrical issues - just old wiring and don't trust it really - I chose to go vaccum canister - added it in and Wow - have good vaccum now and sensitive pedal finally not going to the floor - but alas brakes still suck. So will bleed and tweak and pretty sure he has the drums way out of adjustment for burnouts - know that adjusting the rear drums will help so will do that until I can build up the parts for proper 5 lug swap and disk all the way around.

Wired in an adjustable fan relay as well - and it didn't work... Ended up going for a 4-5 mile drive coming home and spitting coolant - my temp gauge didn't register so due to the location of the temp sensor I know it's the thermostat failing, at least I'm hoping as I picked up a new 180 and will throw it in one evening this week. I say it's the thermostat due to it never opening and therefore my gauge not registering - have the heavy duty electric water pump so hoping it's the thermostat and it's a cheap 4 dollar replacement so giving it a shot anyway;-)

Ordering a vaccum guage so can properly adjust the carb as I set the idle now - it was way off after the exhaust changes – Imagine that going from clogged cat’s and all the stepdowns and stepups in exhaust to a true 3” with an actual crossover…. Idle is around 950 now in park and around 800 in gear so what I consider good until I get the vaccum pump and can adjust the idle air mixture properly.

The big thing is when I looked up the carb it’s not a 750… It’s a 80531 which is an 850 and one hell of a carb – the FI dreams have to wait for a while so broke out my old Holley book and will be using it as a guide to learn and tune – hell may even end up staying carb for a long time😊

Picked up some METCO adjustable upper control arms – and some Metco lower arms for a song so will be installing those, but will be doing a bunch to the rear at the same time. Ordering up some battle boxes and will bolt in and then weld them, remove the rear seat as it’s unusable anyway and probably go with a bare aluminum theme in the inside of the car. Will replace the stock gauges with an aluminum sheet, do the door cards in aluminum, probably do the matching rear seat delete and the center console will get the same treatment as well as the dash where appropriate.
The fuel system will get relocated as well – there is a good 12” from the sump to the location of the Holley blue now – and I’m quite certain the fuel filter is pretty dirty so will pull and clean it – the 100 micron setup and then mount it lower – thinking rear of the car directly behind the bash bar or on the bash bar of the back bumper. It may be a little visible but eventually will replace pump and will be able to hide it better!
I also ended up getting to a proper 14”x 3” air filter – and had to cut the inside of the hood under the crap cowl to make it fit – have to go back and clean up the cuts with a Dremel as the sheet metal cuts look like crap, then need to seal it all up. I live within 2 miles of Kaenen Hoods here in Melbourne so will get a 2.5” or 3” cowl made up in the near future – but it’s low on the list as drivability and dialing in on pump gas is the first concern for me!

I will say this – with the changes I have made, including pumping out all the old gas that was a mix of “water, pump, 3 year old C12, and 5 gallons of 110” the car is now running harder than it ever has through 1st and 2nd at least since I’ve owned it on the pump gas. The vaccum advance on the DUI ignition setup I have is 30 – so have to verify the base timing and then try to dial it all in from there so it’s not breaking up in top of 3rd like last time at the track with the crap fuel! Hard to tell how it’s doing until I get it on the track.
I did get my A/F guage all mounted and hooked up but need to run power to it, then will be able to really start to watch and understand. Have to run an inside vaccum guage as well but have an old one just need the plumbing for it but will be dialing in SOON!!!!

Will throw some pics in soon!
Wait, you have an electric waterpump AND you're running a thermostat? That's a huge no no. Take the existing thermostat out and cut the center valve assembly out. You should be left with the round outer part with a nice round hole in the center. Install this back into the thermostat housing and problem solved as long as the pump is working.
Also, not to sound mean, who runs leaded race fuel with cats? Glad you removed these, they had to be destroyed/near plugged up.
You're doing great, keep at it.
 

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Wait, you have an electric waterpump AND you're running a thermostat? That's a huge no no. Take the existing thermostat out and cut the center valve assembly out. You should be left with the round outer part with a nice round hole in the center. Install this back into the thermostat housing and problem solved as long as the pump is working.
Also, not to sound mean, who runs leaded race fuel with cats? Glad you removed these, they had to be destroyed/near plugged up.
You're doing great, keep at it.
I have to laugh as there are so many things on this car build that they did WAY over the top (AFR 205's...) on and cut major corners on the simple things (e-fan wired to run constant). I did not even THINK about the thermostat - that's an easy fix and I'm willing to bet money my dad has one in it!!!!!!!!!

The Cat's and Leaded fuel :(- not only the cats, no crossover/equalizer of any sort and all of the step-downs (3"-2.5"-2.25-3"-2.5") was purely my dad. I asked him about it and he got defensive - so from that I understood he had caught alot of crap for it - I left it alone but made it the first thing I fixed! I shake my damn head every time I think of it...

This weekend I'll be able to do some little things on Saturday - the e-fan controller re-wiring, the idle mixture adjustment on the carb, power to the A/F guage, thermostat and coolant fixtures and test the wiring on the electric water pump for sure. Beyond that I will mount the rear hangers for the tailpipes and make the cuts - don't know if I'll be able to get the actual tailpipes and stuff put in place though, but the cuts will be made for sure! I'll do that as motivation to get the tank dropped, battleboxes welded in, control arms, and fuel pump relocation as seeing it everyday with no tailpipes will move the priority up!

Thanks for the encouraging words - at points in time I will need them - have been eyeing that Summit/Painless wiring kit for universal 8 for ~325 alot more intently lately as well....

Electrical gremlins are something I refuse to play with - and one of the main reasons I want to drop the tank and look at everything is knowing how they have cobbled together so much I want to see if there is a relay hid anywhere in the car for the pump - I'm almost certain there is no relays, and no way to shutoff fuel.... I have a battery switch that I will mount up in the back soon, but I don't want that to be the only way to turn off the fuel....
 

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Well - Not as much done as I wanted this weekend but did get my shelving done - however did not get everything put into it - also listed alot of stuff for sale to help clean out the garage, so one step closer to parking the Stang in the garage, that's when the Big stuff will start to happen:)

I did cut the tailpipes off to get ready to remove the tank, reweld the small holes in the tailpipes, will drill weep holes just after the mufflers at the lowest point and put the tailpipes on.

Picked up the Metco's upper and lower adjustable arms - man they are pretty pieces!
The Battle Boxes arrived.
Wired up the Fan and it works properly now
Refilled and burped the coolant system
The rear diff cover arrived as well:)

I have been eyeing that Summit/Painless wiring kit for universal 8 for ~325 alot more intently lately as well due to all the little issues - the water pump fired up just fine after wiggling some wires....

Electrical gremlins are something I refuse to play with - and one of the main reasons I want to drop the tank and look at everything is knowing how they have cobbled together so much I want to see if there is a relay hid anywhere in the car for the pump - I'm almost certain there is no relays, and no way to shutoff fuel.... I have a battery switch that I will mount up in the back soon, but I don't want that to be the only way to turn off the fuel....

Garage needs some going over, the stuff needs to go that I have for sale, and then will put the car in. Have to be honest, as much as I want to hit the track, I'm considering pulling the big and littles and selling them, selling the Ponies, and with that money getting my 5 slug swap, better brake setup, Line Lock, and goin to 5 lug before I put back on the road.

Goal is back to the track ASAP, but I hate having to do things twice... I guess we will see once I drop the rear axle and tank to rerun the fuel system and do the battle boxes etc.

BTW, interior is ALL coming out, will be patching the random holes in the car before the carpet goes back in, the rear seat will be removed and sound deadening done once the battle boxes are in, and have to remove all the cheap sound deadening that is in the car, it's just cheap foil and bubble wrap which is trapping hella condensation in the car, which has probably led to alot of rust under the carpet...

Oh man, my list just keeps getting longer!!!! AT this point I'm thinking the car will come out of the garage looking completely different...

While in the garage in addition to the stuff I have mentioned, the front bumper mounts will get cleaned up, the headlights properly adjusted, wiring cleaned up, the Trim will all go Satin black, keys and door handles as well, suspension height will be changed and setup properly, ETC....
 

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Having staying on track issues lol.

Scored some SN95 spindles - then that sent me down the rabbit hole of brakes...

BUT want to stay on point to get back to the track - so having to refocus to get that done - typing this helps me with that and I will refer back for myself as well lol. Instead of getting divorced from purchases I'm going to slowly buy the brake stuff - which is very hard for me.

SO - plan is this for first courses of action:​



Get garage clean finished - ended up doing a bunch of maint and putting new tires/rims on my wifes Jeep last weekend.
Pull the car in and get off the ground on Jack Stands
Drop Gas Tank
Re-route Fuel pump and clean inline filters
Fab mount for Fuel pump to be level or close to sump
Resolve any fuel line issues - noticed a small leak from the hard lines - probably going to do 6AN PTFE hose
Remove rear seat assembly
Install Battle Boxes and repair any cracks - scared of what I will see when I get the seat and rear axle out...
Completely do rear seat area in 80mm butyl after boxes bolted and welded in
Measure and Fab rear seat delete
Install Metco Upper and Lower control arms
Measure driveshaft - put this in as someone said it's too short
Change rear diff fluid and install rear diff cover
Change Tranny fluid and filter - try to identify what "kit" is in my tranny
Fill any sheet metal holes in the cars rear area - drain plug kit, and some welding of sheet metal while have it all out - also the gasket for the filler neck.
Remount Tank
Patch exhaust - pulling it all out and laying on the ground - then will put all back in - bolt up, line up exhaust tips and tack weld - then pull and weld them in perfectly.
Fire up and tune with the vaccum guage for the idle/air - then finish wiring wideband and determine if need jet changes etc.
Adjust rear drums - install proportion valve - and when order the PTFE hose and fittings later today - will probably order a line lock as well, just front for now but when I DO the rear disk and axles will probably wire it up for button on shifter and 4 wheel brake hold to speed up the launches - don't want to do that with the 28 spline stock rear:)



Just a short list for now LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Stuff has started arriving:)

Lone lock and install kit arrived as well as the 5 light spindles- bonus in the spindles they include the linger ARP wheels studs didn't take pics just opened and verified everything! The large LMR order will arrive by Friday, the new lower profile air cleaner will arrive tomorrow, the work will hopefully begin this weekend!!!

Stoked is an understatement!

Can't remember if posted what I ordered but everything for the doors and windows is ordered, black door handles, black key holes, the window felt door guides inside and outside the window rest inside the doors, the window guides. Door pong and Striker items to get the doors actually lockable and already have the SEM black trim paint so once car goes in garage when it comes out will have a different appearance eith the proper black 4 eye surround as well as the change to all if the window mouldings and transition away from the chrome! Unsure if will oaing the center if the grill but the window surrounds and the headlight areas will be the proper black fir certain!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Here are the items from LMR I ordered with the 10% off and free shipping for memorial day:)

9-93 DOOR LATCH STRIKER SPACE - felt spacers to help with perfect alignment
#LRS-6122008K LRS-6122008K
Unit Price: $7.99


1979-1993 MUSTANG DOOR STRIKER - Just the bushings as my strikers are good
#LRS-BP241PR LRS-BP241PR
Unit Price: $7.99

79-93 MUSTANG BLACK OUTER DOOR - steel Black anodized door handles
#LRS-22404K LRS-22404K
Unit Price: $17.99

82-93 MUSTANG DOOR GLASS BRACK - to properly align windows inside doors
#HDW-21410 HDW-21410
Unit Price: $10.99


260-10922 WILWOOD BRAKE PROPOR - Went with this over the Ford performance one reason was price only
#WIL-26010922 WIL-26010922
Unit Price: $49.99


81-93 MUSTANG WINDOW GUIDE BUS - More window alignment stuff for inside the doors
#LRS-22362APR LRS-22362APR
Unit Price: $15.99


83-93 MUSTANG MASTER DOOR HING - Hinge kit of course - will go back and order the springs later
#LRS-23204-KIT LRS-23204-KIT
Unit Price: $20.99


87-93 MUSTANG LOCK SET WITH BL - Black door key set - have 3 different keys and only the trunk works currently - I HATE Chrome
#LRS-21984A-KIT LRS-21984A-KIT
Unit Price: $54.99


1981-86 Mustang Door Belt Weat - This is the felt inside and outside cracked up window guide stuff - No AC and live in Florida so getting the windows to work properly is a Top priority!
#LRS-20544-K LRS-20544-K
Unit Price: $129.99


E2ZZ-9008 79-93 MUSTANG FI - Massive hole in the trunk as does not have this rubber seal from the trunk to the filler neck.
#LRS-9008A LRS-9008A
Unit Price: $33.99
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well sold my Oxy-Acet torch setup as I never used it - so with some of that money ordered up a few more things to complete the exhaust.

3" Flowmaster FX Stainless Mufflers - figured I will give these a shot online they sound like they really will take the drone out and the IMCO mufflers have holes in them I discovered yesterday while looking, honestly can't beat the 38 bucks a piece shipped. I figure they are so new they are trying to move them to help establish the name - supposedly comparable to the Magnaflows so will be what I'm looking for. Decided to keep my cutouts as well and may throw them on down the road, guess we will see:);)

4 3" V-Bands - going to pull the headers, strip them down as they have ALOT of rust and make sure there is no penetration - if they are good and solid - will then strip and flame proof paint them and do the proper heat cycles on them, had good luck in the past doing that. Will also coat the V-Bands as well. Will weld in the Bands on the headers to remove the tweaked 3 bolt setup and tie directly into the Pro-Chamber, then at the back of the Pro-chamber to the flowtubes I have, will allow me some adjust-ability for the tailpipes doing it that way as well.

The tailpipes shoot rust out the back every time I fire it up - so when I have them off will figure up a way to strip the insides of them, and then coat it with a rust inhibitor of some sort before I weld the tips on - or just sell my tips and buy some 3" tailpipes like I really want - to be honest i have spent too much money recently and am eyeing some Greg Weld 17x4 and 15x10 wheels down near Miami with new tires for a stupid low price, and they are rare which I love...

Have to head to a buddies shop on Saturday to do some stuff to my wifes Jeep AGAIN - TPMS sensors out of her stock tires - into the new tires as they previous owner Did take out the TPMS and wife won't let me buy a tuner for her - different budgets.
 
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