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Discussion Starter #1
First time posting here, have a new to me 93 GT, planning on autocrossing it a couple times this year, is completely stock and won't be adding anything to it between now and the first autox aside from sfc's and battleboxes. Anything I should know/expect specific to the car? I've read through this "http://kyscca.com/soloautocross/getting-started-in-autocross/" and similar stuff. Also wondering if anyone knows how strict things are with helmets, I have a full face vemar motorcycle helmet but it isn't snell certified (only DOT) and hoping I don't have to buy another one. Thanks
 

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Most clubs are pretty strict on the helmets, tends to be an insurance compliance item if something were to happen. You should be able to find some older, cheaper helmets. Keep an eye out for sales. I think I got my 2010 open face helmet for like $140 2 years ago from Dave at Solotime.

As far as auto-x'ing a bone stock fox-body, you are in for a treat. They don't turn, they don't brake, they like to snap spin, they like one-wheel peel. They are bonkers. If you are mechanically inclined, I would check the posi. Also, grab a cheap set of stock spare wheels and some craptacular street tires. You will learn more in a season on bad tires in a fox-body than some people learn in a lifetime of driving Miatas.

You're going to want to crank up your front PSI to 40ish to prevent the tire from rolling over (fox bodies lose a ton of camber in turns). Probably set the rears around 32. A stock fox-body is fastest when it is kind of floating around, skating around the course; i.e., you'll kind of pitch it in there and wait for the car to catch up. You'll get the hang of it after a few runs. Be sure to ride with some experts in other rear wheel drive cars so you can see the course, walk the course with them, ask them to ride with you, etc. Keep a full tank of gas in the rear, these cars are nose heavy and you have stock suspension. Don't run a staggered wheel setup. No goofing off in the paddock, pits, or roads near the event site.

Drive the piss out of it and you'll have fun.
 

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Yep, the front tires will take a beating on the outer edges. When I first started autocrossing my car, I corded the fronts in 12(?) events. Our lot was rough but I was the only one to grind the outer edges to the steel belts. I have a picture of my car that was like a boat on a swell and the positive camber on the outside wheel was terrible.


Just get some crap tires as suggested, repack the t-lok and work on your patience on corner entry and reflexes during corner exits.>:)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies guys. Running the stock ponys on some bfgoodrich all seasons right now, I'll start looking for a cheap spare set of square wheels/tires. Had a staggered setup on my last car for awhile and wasn't a huge fan. I'll call ahead about the helmets, if they don't have loaners I'll see if I can find a snell cert motorcycle helmet that will work, could use a new one anyways.

Question about brakes; I might be changing brake pads/fluid/shoes/etc before the first event, is it worth it to get something like the MM stock brake upgrade package (HPS pads/better shoes/hoses) if I'm planning on going 5 lug disc all the way around later on? Will be running stock replacement rotors from napa or autozone or the like regardless.

For the tlok, is it worth the money to go to carbon discs if it needs repacked? Searching has me thinking it's mostly to get more time between rebuilds.
 

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I didn't go carbon, seems to work fine. People were rebuilding posi for decades without carbon, but it's true I'm not sure if there is a real benefit or not. (/Jacksignal)
 

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I have both the carbon (Cobra) and standard (86) T-locs. The carbon set has 177K on it and still works as on day one. I rebuilt the 86 about 2 seasons ago but made certain the end play was nearly zero. It works as well as the Cobra; in fact better since the Cobra's IRS likes to axle tramp requiring me to get out of it. But on balance, I believe end-play, or put another way a tight shim stack, is the key; not whether you use carbon or an alternative stacking regimen.
 
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