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Discussion Starter #1
Summit sells Federal Mogul rebuild kits for the sb 5.0, has anyone used there stuff for a Blower motor?

How was the forged piston, moly rings, bearing and gasket quality?

Because of the KB I will buy some better head gaskets and give the F/M to my Son.

Opened up the motor today and everything looks good so far.
Lots of crosshatch in the cylinders.
A little scuffing on the piston skirts.

I won't know if the pistons are good until I get them out and mic them and the cylinder bores.

Thanks
Ken
 

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I've always read that they're good for your basic stock motor rebuild. idk how much abuse they'll take with boost but if it was me with a stock 5.0, I'd use it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've always read that they're good for your basic stock motor rebuild. idk how much abuse they'll take with boost but if it was me with a stock 5.0, I'd use it.
Thank you for your help.

The engine was supposed to have around 40,000 miles on it.
I haven't done any measuring yet, but everything is looking good so far.
No ridge in the cylinder.
Crosshatch looks good.
A little scuffing on the piston skirt.
Roller lifters look good.

Hoping to pull crank rods and pistons tomorrow if I have time.

Timing chain was very sloppy.

Engine is supposed to be 88 HO with no provisions for fuel pump, so why in the world does it have a fuel pump eccentric?

Thanks again
 

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I've read that some came with one and some didn't. I wouldn't sweat it. just wondering but why are you rebuilding a 40k mile engine? lol
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've read that some came with one and some didn't. I wouldn't sweat it. just wondering but why are you rebuilding a 40k mile engine? lol
I bought the engine over 15 years ago and it has been sitting in my shop ever since.

Sometimes when you buy something, it isn't what they tell you it is, so even if I decided to run it with the stock heads, I would still open it up to see how everything looked.

One thing I did notice when I popped the heads off, was that #3&4 pistons had very little carbon compared to the rest.
When I dropped the oil pan, there was a glob of water and oil, so some how those pistons seem to have gotten steam cleaned and no doubt the reason why the guy got the Mustang for a low price and then parted it out.

Looking at the head gasket, I see no indication of a blown head gasket, but it is obvious that water somehow made it into those adjoining cylinders.

With the heads and pan off, it really isn't a big deal to put new rings and bearings in so I know what I have and while it is apart, I might as well measure and blueprint everything for peace of mind.

My daughter's Fiance owns a machine shop and I used to be a Machine Parts Inspector, so I might as well use his surface table and start checking some parts.

I'm thinking that my stock TRW pistons are going to be fine and I will be surprised if my cylinder bores have any problems, but i might as well check them, get the block hot tanked, deck the block (looks like taking about .005" will put my pistons flush with the deck) hone for new moly rings and put some ARP rod bolts.

All of my suspension, drivetrain, cooling system and engine management is going to be brand new, for a few dollars more I might as well have a rebuilt, blueprinted engine too.

Question:
Back in the 70's there used to be books with tips and tricks for engine power and endurance. Smoky Yunick had a great one.

Does anyone know of a book for these roller cam Windsor's?
I'm not wanting a bolt on performance book, but rather machining tricks for power and endurance and recommended clearances.

Thanks for your help.
Ken
 

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I bought the engine over 15 years ago and it has been sitting in my shop ever since.

Sometimes when you buy something, it isn't what they tell you it is, so even if I decided to run it with the stock heads, I would still open it up to see how everything looked.

One thing I did notice when I popped the heads off, was that #3&4 pistons had very little carbon compared to the rest.
When I dropped the oil pan, there was a glob of water and oil, so some how those pistons seem to have gotten steam cleaned and no doubt the reason why the guy got the Mustang for a low price and then parted it out.

Looking at the head gasket, I see no indication of a blown head gasket, but it is obvious that water somehow made it into those adjoining cylinders.

With the heads and pan off, it really isn't a big deal to put new rings and bearings in so I know what I have and while it is apart, I might as well measure and blueprint everything for peace of mind.

My daughter's Fiance owns a machine shop and I used to be a Machine Parts Inspector, so I might as well use his surface table and start checking some parts.

I'm thinking that my stock TRW pistons are going to be fine and I will be surprised if my cylinder bores have any problems, but i might as well check them, get the block hot tanked, deck the block (looks like taking about .005" will put my pistons flush with the deck) hone for new moly rings and put some ARP rod bolts.

All of my suspension, drivetrain, cooling system and engine management is going to be brand new, for a few dollars more I might as well have a rebuilt, blueprinted engine too.

Question:
Back in the 70's there used to be books with tips and tricks for engine power and endurance. Smoky Yunick had a great one.

Does anyone know of a book for these roller cam Windsor's?
I'm not wanting a bolt on performance book, but rather machining tricks for power and endurance and recommended clearances.

Thanks for your help.
Ken


All of that sounds reasonable.

I also have the power secrets book from smokey, good read. There are a few books by George Reid from the SA-Design publisher that had some good tips and tricks. I have a bunch of books but maybe look into "How to rebuild the small block ford" and "How to build big inch ford small blocks" for machining and build tips
 

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Discussion Starter #7
All of that sounds reasonable.

I also have the power secrets book from smokey, good read. There are a few books by George Reid from the SA-Design publisher that had some good tips and tricks. I have a bunch of books but maybe look into "How to rebuild the small block ford" and "How to build big inch ford small blocks" for machining and build tips
Thanks, I'll look into those books.

I don't know if they had bad timing chains or if there is a lack of oiling, but this timing chain was way, way too loose for as good as the rest of the engine looked.

I don't remember ever seeing one so bad that hadn't slipped.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Pulled the crank, rods and pistons and other than the cam bearings, not a single bearing was not showing copper.

Looks like they blew a head gasket and ran it with the engine full of water.

Must have made a lot of noise.
 

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I've run FM parts in a high performance build several times. Their engine bearings come in various grades and are good parts. They used to have a Super Duty Alloy bearing which was a high performance bearing. I think Speed Pro is a FM brand as well, I used their forged pistons for increased compression with metric ring packs along with file fit plasma moly coated rings. Basic 302 rebuild, no overbore, Edelbrock heads, shorty headers, Cobra intake, Crane roller cam, roller rockers, 9.5:1 compression made about 400 hp to the crank and ran reliably for years, all Federal Mogul.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've run FM parts in a high performance build several times. Their engine bearings come in various grades and are good parts. They used to have a Super Duty Alloy bearing which was a high performance bearing. I think Speed Pro is a FM brand as well, I used their forged pistons for increased compression with metric ring packs along with file fit plasma moly coated rings. Basic 302 rebuild, no overbore, Edelbrock heads, shorty headers, Cobra intake, Crane roller cam, roller rockers, 9.5:1 compression made about 400 hp to the crank and ran reliably for years, all Federal Mogul.
Sorry about the late reply, been getting stuff around the house ready for winter.

Thank you for your information and help, this looks like a reasonable way to go for my engine.
 

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FM bought a lot of good parts brands so I wouldn't hesitate with their stuff. I just checked some FelPro gaskets I have and they're a Federal Mogul brand. I use Fel Pro gaskets on all my stuff when possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
FM bought a lot of good parts brands so I wouldn't hesitate with their stuff. I just checked some FelPro gaskets I have and they're a Federal Mogul brand. I use Fel Pro gaskets on all my stuff when possible.
Thank you.

I have never been let down by Fel Pro gaskets and would like to keep running them.

The one exception may be the head gaskets on this Kenne Bell engine. I will need to read some reviews when it gets to the point of putting on the heads. If Fel Pro head gaskets rate high for a Blower, then it will be Fel Pro otherwise, if something else is better, then it will be something else.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i've got the fel pro 9333's on my turbo motor and my roots blown motor and they've been holding up fine.
Thank you for the information.

Can I get them in different thicknesses?

Not sure how thick I will need until all machining is done, but good information to keep in the back of my mind.
 
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