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Got the correct backup light switch from Rock Auto. They list 6 for this 5 speed application. Based on what I now know (first one I ordered was wrong), 3 of them are incorrect. I gave 'em some feedback. Now to find the blue wire/red stripe coming out of the fuse box and red wire/blue stripe coming from the back up lights!

 

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I had a similar experience in buying hood struts for my E36. Ordered one, it was incorrect. Emailed and got another shipped out for a swap thinking the first was boxed wrong. Second one arrived and was the same as the first. Wrote them back saying both were wrong and that they were offering coupe parts for a sedan that aren't interchangeable. Went back to the site a bit later and they had sorted it all out and separated the coupe and sedan struts.

I hit the road this morning before the snow and rain and got Almost 4 up to Blue Oval Classics. The snow was coming down strong and following me up.


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Will be cool to see the numbers, Bob. Even more cool to get the car running the way you want it to be.
 

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The stang looks good thru the rear window Bob. cant wait to hear how she turns out.

I rented a couple dehumidifier to take out the rest of the water downstairs. Been a wild couple days but clawing out from under it all.
Got to play with the idle on the stang. One question.... how do I know if the IAB motor is working? When I unplug it with a warmed up motor I don’t see any change.
 

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There's an idle setting procedure bandied about online, but I never had any success with it at all. The ECU controls idle speed - my only lasting success was to get into the chip and reset the idle speed there - Scott Noe did it for me.
 

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I was playing with the TPS voltage and the idle screw at the same time. I’ve set the voltage at .96v. RPM at times likes 950 and other times seems to like 1050. Either seems fine. Glad to hear I am not the only one with idle confusion. :)
 

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IIRC, the ECU re-establishes a baseline "idle position" TPS voltage every time you start up. As long as it's anywhere between .7V-.99V you're fine. No need to play with it beyond that. I presume a different idle speed was programmed in when your car was tuned/chipped? That's the place to change it.
 

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Will be cool to see the numbers, Bob. Even more cool to get the car running the way you want it to be.
I'm curious what it will put down but I'm not expecting big numbers. I am more concerned with the a/f ratio and the oil pressure. The goal at this point is to keep it together. Lol It = motor

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Without knowing how the idle was set on the chip, it’s a guessing game. Don’t bother fiddling with tps voltage.

As far as whether iac is working, start it up and turn AC on. Rpm should increase.

I’d get it set at 1000rpm and be happy with it. The eec just isn’t advanced enough to handle semi aggressive cams with idle issues.

Even then, you will have occasional blip and stumble here and there. I still do when conditions are just right. It’s just a fact for a cammed mustang. Ive heard some of the new plug and play standalones have better luck, as they eliminate the MAF setup and are self learning.
 

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No comparison between newer stuff (even OEM) and the EECIV set ups. Processing time is WAY WAY quicker with even the 2008-ish ECU's; aftermarket stuff even quicker. And with DBW and coil packs (hell, some systems can vary timing BY CYLINDER) -- I've seen VERY aggressive camshafts have OEM-level drivability. It's pretty amazing when the system can react to feedback very quickly.
 

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Agree 100%. The Fox eec tends to chase it’s tail when trying to stabilize idle. The iac and the timing adjustments simply aren’t enough to help with a cammed car.

not to mention the self learning/tuning they have available.
 

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For mild street engines, the self learning systems can do a pretty good job -- although even in those cases, fine tuning can offer even more improvements. For wilder combinations -- there are limits on the self learning systems. When manifold vacuum at idle starts to drop below 10", the self learning systems become really hamstrung as they only have the range of 0" of vacuum to 10" to work with. The wilder the combo, the more that custom tuning is going be needed to get the most out of the combo. Here's some detail on that --
Speaking of vacuum -- finally, a common 'rail' so I have a more stable signal to the booster and the advance canister on the distributor. I believe this will also enable me to further fine-tune the balance on the carbs.

 

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Without knowing how the idle was set on the chip, it’s a guessing game. Don’t bother fiddling with tps voltage.

As far as whether iac is working, start it up and turn AC on. Rpm should increase.

I’d get it set at 1000rpm and be happy with it. The eec just isn’t advanced enough to handle semi aggressive cams with idle issues.

Even then, you will have occasional blip and stumble here and there. I still do when conditions are just right. It’s just a fact for a cammed mustang. Ive heard some of the new plug and play standalones have better luck, as they eliminate the MAF setup and are self learning.
Thanks for confirming Richard. Scott Noe tuned mine with my PMS in the dyno in Kingsport as well. And this system is old very old compared to new stuff. I had No Idea what Michael indicates about self learning and no mass air meter as well. Wow, that’s pretty cool stuff.
 

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Great webpage reading Michael thank you.
 

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A disappointing afternoon working in the car. As you can see in the picture, the inexpensive new speedo cable unit from Rock Auto didn't have a long enough cable to engage the speedometer drive. So I cleaned/lubed the old one and reinstalled. It's definitely turning - so we'll see if the problem is the speedo itself. Rockauto will issue a refund and, for now, they said keep the cable. And for some reason, my tranny won't engage the backup light switch in reverse. Which I discovered AFTER a lot of work getting ready -- making the connectors, the harness, cutting a perfectly good 19mm wrench in half to be able to tighten it in confined space. So installed the old busted on to fill the hole and I'll put the backup lights on a toggle/relay. Rockauto will take the switch back for a refund.

 

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That stinks.
 

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Looks like I may be doing the rewire headlight relay thing on the geo. I’ve lost full voltage on low beams on both headlights now. Figured that out half way to work this morning. Had to run on high beams. Didn’t get flashed at all, guess they aren’t too bad on bright lol.

Grrr, I’ll be tearing into my harness tonight for a hopefully easy fix and then go ahead and plan out my relay setup.
 
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