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No smog pump has been gone for 20-25 yrs.

I have an “S” pattern as viewed from radiator. Bottom of S goes from crank to alternator.

Top of S goes from alternator to tensioner over to AC clutch pulley.

I used to run an under drive crank pulley but with three electric fans and ac blowing in summer heat, I decided to keep maximum possible voltage running worst case.

As I recall some Taurus or Explorer pulleys could be used to slow down the power steering from providing too much assist. I’d like to look into those options.
 

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MUCH, MUCH easier to simply get a shorter belt Chris -- they usually make them in half inch increments. Length is usually tied into the part number -- for example, one that ends in "04-0835" is 83.5" long with 4 ribs, "06-0790" is 6 ribs, 79" long, etc. See what your part number is on the belt get the next 2 shorter ones they have. Besides, changing the pulley diameter on the PS will change the speed at which it turns - for better or worse. Just shorten the belt until you get the tension into the acceptable range. Went through this on the LS in the Volvo. Measured and then went to O'Reilly's and bought about 5 belts. (actually, ended up with about 8) -- found the one that was perfect and returned the rest.

I wanted to keep all original gauges in the Volvo. Got tired of chasing speedo accuracy (changing drivetrains, gears, tire size, etc) with the little colored gears. So the unit I bought uses a GPS signal to turn an electric motor which drives the speedo cable. You can calibrate it using the GPS on your phone til you dial it in. No more changing speedo gears with a drivetrain change. If the speedo on the Toyo is busted, then a cable drive unit like the Volvo's won't do me any good - because the speedo itself is busted. If that's the case, I'll basically make a custom dash panel and use an ELECTRONIC speedo by Speedhut or Autometer, etc, that takes a signal from a GPS unit. Cable will go away on the Toyota if the speedo is broke.
 

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Oh, slowing down the pump to try and alter level of assist is a bad idea. You need to put a FLOW LIMITER in the outlet of the pump if you want to alter assist level. I did this on the Volvo with the Saginaw pump from a Cadillac. The rack needs a certain amount of pressure to function properly -- let the pump turn and give it the pressure it wants; just limit flow to alter assist.

 

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Ok, slower isn’t necessarily better.... any thoughts on effect of under drive crank pulley slowing down power steering? I ran an under drive crank diameter for 20 years I’d guess. If I use a similar reduction percentage (or less) I should be fine I’d guess. My 5.5” pulley has a circumference of 17.3”. If I found a 6.2” diameter pulley that fit, its circumference is 19.5” or a 12.5% increase in diameter and that much in effective “underdrive”.

I am not sure what my crank pulley diameter/circumference changes where but now I am curious. ....

OReillys told me my next size was many inches shorter, four or so if I recall correctly the last time I checked. Yes of course a shorter belt would be best!
 

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Another option is if I can find a larger tension pulley.... stock is 90mm (3.5”) I was hoping the aftermarket 100mm (~4”) Newer Mustang pulleys could work but the offsets aren’t compatible without machining a spacer or something.

Unless other parts stores have access to belt lengths in ranges that OReillys doesn’t I need to find pulley that can take up about 1-2” if my belt length to get me back in the happy zone of the tensioner range. My last belt just stretched out too far and it’s only 4 months old. I’m that close to loosing sufficient tension
 

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O’Reilly’s - fer cryin’ out loud - TONS of belt sizes available. That’s where I bought all of mine. You have to tell them - don’t let them tell you. Unless of course you need to turn PS slower.
 

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Just like micheal said - go to any parts store that has a belt measuring tool. 84.5” is what yours would be with stock pullies. They are simply going by what’s available stock as compared to what you need.

pull your existing belt off and let them measure, then get the next few sizes shorter than that. Usually available in 1/2” increments. Whatever size you don’t use take them back. Napa is generally a good place to start. Belt part numbers end with the actually measurement iirc.
 

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Mine isn’t stock guys. Far from it. I’ve brought this one in and I custom sized this one. They had nothing smaller unless I go a big step smaller.

No smog, over drive alternator, cobra water pulley..... I may try another store tho. Sometimes OReillys leads me wrong. I’ll give you that one.
 

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Flooding in basement. Been wet dry vacuuming for four hours today.
 

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Flooding in basement. Been wet dry vacuuming for four hours today.
 

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Sorry to hear that Chris....hang in there. 5" of rain in my backyard -- just hammered here.

Mine wasn't stock either; actually, far from "stock" -- that's why you measure and then get 5-7 belts close to the size you need and pick the one that fits. O'Reilly's (Autozone, Advance, etc.) is only good for supplying what you tell them you want. Never for them telling you what you need.
 

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Yep. I can almost guarantee there’s is a belt of any length you could need. I know your setup is unique but there’s a belt out there somewhere.

My basement has water too. However, I have a garage door on the end and a light slope. It comes up the footer and fills below slab, and then works way in between block and concrete. And then runs right on out the door as long as I remember to raise it up a 1/4”. Thankfully, anything that can be damaged is on shelves and in totes. Never really get puddles as much as I get little trickles/streams of water.
 

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MIL lives downstairs. Been vacuuming and sweeping and soaking water since noon. We’ve finally caught up but it still comes in slow. About to quit and lay a lot of towels out to soak up what comes in slowly. Then hit again tomorrow morning.

yeah I’d buy a belt, try it, bring it back and exchange it as I didn’t have to rotate engine. Rinse repeat etc.

But I’ll try again and see if another shop has access to one one inch or so shorter. That links for the encouragement that I just need to look longer.
 

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A neighbor has it worse. Two big rotor router trucks at their place.

I am going to pay to have some landscape work done to solve our basement issues. I am getting too old for this!
 

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My wife and I joke with each other - with age we've come to realize that human existence is pretty much about managing water. Getting it where you want it/need it when you need it; and keeping it OUT OF areas where you don't want it/need it.
 

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I need to dig up the French drain on the uphill side of my basement. The pipe needs to just empty out onto the ground instead of a French drain that eventually fills. Only happens when we get horrendous amounts of rain. Maybe 8 times in twenty years.
 

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Just checked this morning it looks like no more water came in after 930p. We crashed. 9-10 hrs straight jumping on ‘fires’ here it there which ever was worst. Lower back was killing me last night. I was afraid I’d pull a muscle doing one small thing wrong with as sore as it was. Slept ok w 4 ibuprofen. Still tight and allied some CDB/hemp oil lotion. First time I’ve used it but it does seem to help.
 

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Buttoned up things under the dash (I hope!) -- 1/2" hoses cut/fit; and added some flexible ducting left over from the Volvo A/C project to connect the heater box to the driver's side defrost vent. Hose fit perfectly into the oval hole in the box and onto the round stub on the defrost vent.





All heater hoses and new upper radiator hose fitted underhood. Also new t'stat - 195F. Just waiting on some plastic fittings so I can create a common vacuum rail (out of 5/16" hose) that connects all 4 intake runners (remember, I have no "plenum") so that I have a more stable vacuum signal for the brake booster and the distributor vacuum advance. $9 at Rock Auto for entirely new speedo cable -- so I bought one. We'll see....
 
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