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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone gone to a 16 volt battery and eliminated the alternator? Were you able to keep a idler pulley in the alternator pulley location? If so, I would love to see some pictures of how you did it. A quick Google search did not net any results. Any info appreciated before I go and fab something up.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
This is all in an effort to get the weight of the car trimmed down some. The alternator weighs 13lbs 7oz. The battery cable from the trunk to the alternator was 2lbs 8oz. The shut off solenoid was another 2lbs. I have been doing some re-search, IE Google 16 volt batteries and see what I come up with, and am seriously considering this set up:

GO Lithium Intelligent Power Racing Battery/Charger Package

Kind of spendy, but it would trim another 30ish lbs of battery weight out of the car. Looking to get a total of 100+ lbs out of the car. According to the Wallace Racing calculators: Wallace Racing - Automotive Calculators the loss of 100 lbs should net about a .07 reduction in ET for the 1/8 mile with my combo, nothing else being changed. Does not sound like a lot, but .07 is a big drop at this level.
 

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I tried a Li ion 16v for a little while. They were still new at the time. I was only able to get 2 or maybe 3 starts out of it before it was too far down to use. That said, I bought one for my pit bike-which is a little bitty 12v deal, and it will start/crank the engine (all .07 liters of it) many times before it ever needs a charge. So, perhaps I had a bad Li ion 16v from the get go, or they were still "new", don't know. I went to a Rock 16v which is heavy but I don't worry about it. Starts and runs the car all day long without a charge. I don't have much electrical load either. Gauge back lights, 6AL are about it. Fuel pump is mechanical. I do not run an alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
From everything I have read, with the Lithium batteries, you pretty much re-charge after every round of racing. They are supposed to recharge very quickly, like 10-15 min. I have a lot of electrical draw on my system, the water pump for the engine, the water pump for the I/C, the water pump for the S/C, fan for radiator, 2 Aeromotive Eliminator fuel pumps, Fast XFI system, line lock soilenoid, trans brake solentoid, park lights for at night, power windows, MSD box. Some of that load is temporary, but there is still a lot of amp draw during a run. I also drive up to the lanes and drive back to the pits, so I have a lot of run time relative to a car that is towed. That is why I am considering the twin battery set up. Although there are a few folks who claim it works good with just one battery. I have all winter to make up my mind. Worst case, I go with a XS battery which weights about the same as my current Optima.
 

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I'm guessing that all of those fans and water pump would be running after a run? That would increase charging time a bunch. Just thinking if they round robin you in the later rounds.

-I just remembered reading about a guy that used batteries independent of the car to cool it between rounds. The car's battery only ran it down the track and back.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I usually only have fan at radiator running and engine water pump running for about 10 min. after a run. Sometimes the water pump for the S/C runs as well. A quick disconnect for powering those after a run is a good idea. I will have to look into that.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I ordered up this ribbed idler pulley (the 3.425" one) to go in place of where the alternator was. The alternator had a 4"dia pulley, so there may be a difference is belt length because of the smaller pulley, or I may be able to position the idler so that the belt length stays the same.

Billet Aluminum Grooved Pulleys, New Jersey, NJ

Here is a picture of what was on the car:

 
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