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Discussion Starter #1
So this car I got that was carb swapped is whooping my a**.....I have the duraspark hooked up. All wires but the white one.. It cranks and drives fine. but after 20 mins when you go back to crank it, will turn over slowly like the battery is dying. If i wait a hour or 2 go back to crank it, she fires right up..I have the box in the front left fender under where the MAf would've been.. Im stumped .. Man this thing fires up then will not again till its cool..WTF.... I am either havin ga huge brain fart or just not getting it...

Is the white wire supposed to be hooked up.. Not exactly sure I think it bypasses the stuff to help it crank easier. but not sure?
 

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Probably a starter/heat issue, not ign related.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok..so any way to get it hot and check...just went.out.and.main it fires right up....just having a freaking brain fart with this thing..
 

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So this car I got that was carb swapped is whooping my a**.....I have the duraspark hooked up. All wires but the white one.. It cranks and drives fine. but after 20 mins when you go back to crank it, will turn over slowly like the battery is dying. If i wait a hour or 2 go back to crank it, she fires right up..I have the box in the front left fender under where the MAf would've been.. Im stumped .. Man this thing fires up then will not again till its cool..WTF.... I am either havin ga huge brain fart or just not getting it...

Is the white wire supposed to be hooked up.. Not exactly sure I think it bypasses the stuff to help it crank easier. but not sure?
That's not uncommon.

There are a few reasons why it happens. I'll try to list them in the order that I think best applies to you:

1) Poor battery or ground connection or wire!
o) Clean the battery terminals.
o) Check where the battery connects to the engine
o) Check the ground to body connection
o) Check the engine to firewall ground strap.


2) Heat soak of an old starter. Or headers that are close to the starter and heat soaking it.
Solutions: Replace the starter, and/or get an sn95 mini/small starter, and/or put a heat blanket around the starter.


3) Weak battery.


Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah the battery is brand new. The starter is probably.original if not as old..
PHP:
i will look at replacing it this next weekend. Does the one from the 95 just bolt up.i will.probably heat.shield it to since the headers.are.so close to.
 

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Yeah the battery is brand new. The starter is probably.original if not as old..i will look at replacing it this next weekend. Does the one from the 95 just bolt up.i will.probably heat.shield it to since the headers.are.so close to.
A few wires, with the correct connectors, are required to use an sn95 starter in a fox.
Looks like FRPP no longer sells the kit. See my rant at the end of this reply. :)

Well, at least they still have the instruction on the web.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-11000A50A75B50B75.pdf

I'm sure there are places that sell the required wiring, I just don't know who they are. And, some places may sell low-quality wiring and connectors.

Form a google search, I did find one M-11000-A50 on ebay. It's ~$250. IMHO, kinda high for a stock sn95 starter and some wiring.


Here are some old pictures from when I did the swap on my car.
















[on soapbox]
IMHO, FRPP is moving more and more towards ricer cr*p with a catalog written and reviewed by ********s!
Hmm, why does FRPP offer the kit anymore? Oh I know - it's not stupid ricer cr*p like 99.9% of the stuff they now sell!
Sigh....
[off soapbox]
 

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The corral is great. :)

From this thread:
http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-5-8-engine-tech/1277712-sn-95-starter-fox-how.html


I found this starter and wiring kit:
DB Electrical - NEW FORD MINI PMGR RACING STARTER 302 351 HIGHER TORQUE 3205 SFD0001



NEW FORD MINI PMGR RACING STARTER 302 351 HIGHER TORQUE 3205 SFD0001
Price: $56.95
Item Number: SFD0001 -

Gear Reduction High Performance Ford Factory
NEW Mini PMGR Starter!
Fits many Ford engines with Automatic Transmissions and some later models with Manual Transmissions.

This Ford PMGR 12 Volt, CW, 10-Tooth Pinion starter is 100% New and sold outright with no core charge! If you have a Manual Transmission model, you may need our part #3223 starter listed in a separate listing.


This starter will also replace-
(1991-82) Ford Mustangs 5.0L (302 CID) All

This starter will replace older 4 inch and 4-1/2 inch 9 tooth Bendix gear starters providing a 50% weight reduction and requiring less cranking amps while cranking with twice the torque!

Because the PMGR starter is a smaller size, it provides better header clearance and reduces the effects of a hot start.

We also include the wiring kit # 79-2114 at no extra charge if you are changing over from the older style starter.


Overall length from the mounting flange to the end of the starter is 6.25 inches to allow for header clearance!

DO NOT BE FOOLED BY CHEAP IMITATION STARTERS! THIS PMGR STARTER IS A 'SUPER TORQUE HEAVY DUTY' BUILT FOR MAXIMUM TORQUE AND PERFORMANCE!

Shipping Rates U.S. Domestic (48 Contiguous States): Free.
 

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Install instructions -- but no pictures or diagrams.

M-11000-A50/A75/B50/B75
Ford Racing Starter
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS


If you are not confident you can complete the installation safely, have it completed by a certified technician!
Failure to complete the installation correctly could cause damage to your vehicle and serious injury and/or death to the vehicle operator and passengers!

The following instructions are for the installation of either the M-11000-A50/A75/B50/B75 Ford Racing starters and should be followed exactly.


! ! ! WARNING: DO NOT INSTALL A JUMPER WIRE BETWEEN THE BATTERY TERMINAL AND THE SOLENOID BLADE TERMINAL AT THE STARTER TO AVOID THE USE OF THE # 12 WIRE. IF DONE, VOLTAGE IS GENERATED TO THE SOLENOID BY THE STARTER SPINNING AFTER THE RELEASE OF THE START KEY OR BUTTON, CAUSING THE STARTER TO REMAIN ENGAGED, RESULTING IN SEVERE DAMAGE AND EVENTUAL FAILURE OF THE STARTER ! ! !


The installation should take 1-3 hours and requires the use of a floor jack and jack stands.

! ! ! CAUTION: JACKSTANDS MUST BE USED ON A LEVEL SURFACE AND SECURELY SEATED. FAILURE TO DO SO MAY RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY OR VEHICLE DAMAGE ! ! !

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:
! ! ! PERFORM THE FOLLOWING WORK ON A COLD VEHICLE ONLY ! ! !

STEP 1: Disconnect negative (-) battery cable from battery.

STEP 2: Remove starter relay cover by removing the two (2) plastic pushpins (Mustang).

STEP 3: Remove nut from "A" post of the starter relay and remove starter to relay cable. (Figure 1) After the cable
is removed, route it through the engine compartment so that it can be removed from underneath.

STEP 4: Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack and support it with jack stands.

STEP 5: Remove the nuts that retain the two (2) starter cable mounting brackets to the engine.

STEP 6: With the starter supported, remove the starter mounting bolts.

STEP 7: Remove the electrical connections from the starter.

STEP 8: Remove the starter from the vehicle.

STEP 9: Install new cable (provided) onto the cable mounting bracket and secure with the nuts removed in step 5.

NOTE: The driver side mounting bracket is also the battery ground mounting position. Make sure
that the battery ground cable is installed prior to tightening the nut.

NOTE: THE STARTER MUST BE SUPPORTED FOR STEPS 10 – 13 TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE CABLES.

STEP 10: Fasten the large wire ring lug connector to the starter using an 8mm nut (provided).
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. (see figure 2)

STEP 11: Fasten the small wire ring lug connector to the starter using a 6mm-1.00 nut (provided).
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. (see figure 2)

STEP 12: Carefully place the starter into position. WARNING: MAKE SURE THAT THE ELECTRICAL
CONNECTORS AND STARTER CABLE DO NOT GET PINCHED OR COME INTO CONTACT WITH
ANY METAL SURFACES.

STEP 13: Re-install starter mounting bolts and torque to 15-20 Ft. Lbs.

STEP 14: Tie wrap the starter cable out of the way of the damper and route it through the engine compartment to
the starter relay terminal.

STEP 15: Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle.

STEP 16: Connect the starter cable (large black cable with red ends) to the "B" post of the starter relay (Figure 2)
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.

NOTE: The "B" post of the starter relay should also have the battery cable attached to it.

STEP 17: Connect the #12 gauge wire (black) to the "A" post of the starter relay. (Figure 2) DO NOT
OVERTIGHTEN.

STEP 18: Re-connect battery cable to battery.

STEP 19: Test starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Nice....thats probably the cheapest ive seen a mini starter.go.for..im gonna look for one tomorrow.have a bunch or family in.this.weekend..so once they leave.illl get a new.one..guess thats been my issue the whole time..i was thinking the duraspark box was...but makes.sense.that the starter.is just hot...i mean it dies to the point if clicking..but when.cooled.off she.will fire up like a champ...
 

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That is a fantastic buy on the posted starter. If you can fab a heat shield and use some heat wrap you will be doing yourself a favor.
good luck,
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah i habe some aluminum sheeting laying around..I will definitely make a sheild.and wrap the headers to..
 

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Yeah i habe some aluminum sheeting laying around..I will definitely make a sheild.and wrap the headers to..
Are you planning on keeping the car more than 1-2 years? If so, then never put anything on/over the headers. They will rust.

IMHO, the heat from the headers causes a lot of problems for a Fox/94-95. I have the jet-hot coated FRPP headers. They still throw off a lot of heat. That makes cooling the Stang, the AC, the HP/gas mileage , etc all suck when in very hot humid (e.g over 100F and dew points in the 80's/90's) back to back traffic.

But, header wraps will rust the headers. The amount of time it takes depends on how much and the type of driving. If the car sits in a climate controlled garage and is never driven, then DUH the headers will not rust for many years. :) If Stang is a real-life daily driver (like mine is during the good weather), then the headers will rust very quickly.

So... either go with the dedicated starter wrap, and be careful to prevent an possible shorts between the blanket and the battery cable, or don't do anything at all. IMHO, putting sheet metal around/near a starter is asking for the car to GO UP IN SMOKE as the sheet metal will very likely shift/move over time and could short-out/dig-into the battery cable.

If you yank the engine, then it is possible to fab up some nice brackets for sheet metal shield. Hmm, or just buy the better solution of the starter thermal protection blanket. :)

Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
....no actually they wont rust.I have a set with wrapping on them now and has been for hmm 2 years.no rust..but I apprciate your advice. i drive it a few times a week.not a major rust issue or.concern.I would just fix that should it happen. ill probably get a high torque mini starter.its not a huge issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I think your right Scotty, I was told not to hook it up. but wondering if I should. Im not sure that it would cause the car to have the symptoms of a dying battery but I will definitely hook it up and drive it. The starter is probably as old as the car itself. so it cant hurt to upgrade it. Not really sure how the whole retarding thing works since it was carb swapped. But I can hook it up and drive it around and see if that helps.. the battery and wires are brand new. old, starter and coil. that's my next plans..
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok,so I got the white wire to duraspark hooked up.it seems to start better and.turn over.pretty good..I drove it.for.15 mins cam home and let it sit for 5 mins.when i go start it,it will turnover fine,but no crank . i pat the gas a time or two and it will crank...seems like week or no spark...the coil looks pretty old.so going to replace it with MsD...am I missiny womething else...was a carb swap when i got it....ive.done headers,exhaust..has a 289 performer on it with 600 carb..other then coik what should i look for to get it to fire up consistantly.....seems like a no spark issue..duraspark box(blue) is brand new...plugs need to be changed.ive got them..other then coil......what else do I need to make sure is.good to go
 

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Thanks for the link stangPlus2Birds, Thats a great deal on the starter , I just picked one up. Thanks for the info
 
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