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Discussion Starter #21
Just got a ups notification that MM created a shipping label for my steering shaft so they at least got some back in stock.
Cool! I may order one up tomorrow.

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Discussion Starter #22
The information below is something which I’ve been able to confirm, but haven’t had the chance to change on the MM website yet.

With the lone exception of the 2000 Mustang Cobra R rack:

All 1999-2004 Mustang racks have the same valving.

All 1996-98 Mustang racks have the same valving.

All 1994-95 Mustang racks have the same valving.

The differences in SPR codes from the different racks within the ABOVE year ranges is due to differences which don’t matter to us, such as the thickness of the steering rack limiter clips.
Anything else you recommend I add while doing the sn95 rack?

Obviously, fox inner and outer tie rods. The outers I have now were replaced last year. So I'll reuse them.

Need to order mm hybrid steering shaft.

Aluminum rack bushings, inner tie rod boots, o rings? New rack bushing sleeves?

I found a 01 mustang GT rack on eBay. Hopefully it good to go. Otherwise, I'll have it rebuilt by Turn 1?

Thanks!

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So, Jack, do you have anything that details the differences between the 94-95, 96-98, and 99-04 racks? In other words, do I want to consider upgrading my '95's rack of it ever needs replaced? Thanks.
 

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So, Jack, do you have anything that details the differences between the 94-95, 96-98, and 99-04 racks? In other words, do I want to consider upgrading my '95's rack of it ever needs replaced? Thanks.
In another thread he mentioned the racks getting more road feel with each generation due to the old guard at Ford, who insisted on comfy steering, started to retire.
 

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Note the tire sizes increased over those model years too. The 94/95's had stock 16" wheels, the later models had larger base wheels, and tires. It's great to know the big change in the 99-04 models was the limiters placed on the TRE's.
 

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But what’s the difference between a 2004 GT and 2004 V6 rack?

The SPR-ZM Cobra rack I got did have limiters. The SPR-ZK GT rack I got did not have any. The V6 rack is SPR-ZL, so I’m curious what the external differences are if the internals are all the same?

Edit: I was wrong. Upon taking apart my 04 GT rack, I found it does have limiters. They are roughly the same size as the white 91-93 limiters I put on my cobra rack. I do not have the cobra limiters anymore unfortunately to compare, but they were bigger
30D49844-34FE-45D3-B8AC-A12486F8DA3F.jpeg



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I've edited my original post to clarify things.

Don,

I don't have enough data yet to accurately answer that question. The differences between the valving in the different groups is not that large. This requires a lot of racks in each group to be tested until you have an average behavior for each of the groups established.

Mike,

Other than the steering rack limiters and the price you pay for each, nothing.
 

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.......
Don,
I don't have enough data yet to accurately answer that question. The differences between the valving in the different groups is not that large. This requires a lot of racks in each group to be tested until you have an average behavior for each of the groups established.
.......
Was this directed toward my question, Jack? (Is it worth upgrading a 94/95 to a 99-04 rack?)
 

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Was this directed toward my question, Jack? (Is it worth upgrading a 94/95 to a 99-04 rack?)
I think it was. Sounds like he was saying at this point it's inconclusive.

If I was a 94-98 owner and my rack failed, I would probably be inclined to just grab the 99-04 rack.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
That is a big revelation, nobody with a fox should suffer crap steering again.
I agree. I really like the steering and feel when driving my 03 cobra. Then drive my 90 coupe and it just leaves a lot to be desired. It feels sloppy.

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That is a big revelation, nobody with a fox should suffer crap steering again.
Ditto, now go find a 1990-92 Mark VII and build that. Those don't need the expensive hybrid steering shaft. Those you can use any 94-04 steering shaft with the racks, and the existing TRE's.;)
 

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Plenty of $60-70/shipped 04 V6 racks on eBay to pick from too


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For anyone who wants to do this a little cheaper and can weld. You can buy the correct u joint, cut the rag joint off your steering shaft and weld the new u joint to your steering shaft. From what I’ve found U joint is sweet manufacturing part #401-50609. That’s a 3/4 smooth by ford 94+ rack and pinion u joint.
 

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Thank you Chuck D you just saved me $190 over MM......assuming this will work to put a 99-04 rack in my 89, Ordered it all ready !
 

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I can vouch for the MM hybrid shaft.

I built my own hybrid shaft out of a fox and SN, welded together

There are downsides to the DIY route. It does not allow for easy clocking of the steering wheel. In other words, when you are making it all work together, you will have to perfectly center the front wheels with the tie rods removed from the spindles. Then you will have to perfectly center the rack. Then perfectly center your steering wheel. At that point you can start tacking the shaft together where you need it.

The MM shaft has a splined stub at the top part of the shaft, so if after alignment your steering wheel is a little off, you can simply center the rack, then remove the stub locking bolt, slide the shaft together (remember-it it telescoping, for safety), move it a spline in the direction you need, and lock it back down. Literally it is a 10 min job once you have the car in the air (lift is nice for this but not required)

Secondly. The DIY route assumes that the DIY'er has excellent fab and welding skills. If that doesn't describe you and you question your skills, forget about doing it. Remember, this is YOUR safety you're dealing with here. Steering and brakes are two items I personally will not skimp on.

Thirdly the DIY shaft will still have a flexible joint and it is known to get loose over time. Also the two "halves" of the shaft (where it's supposed to "telescope" have a rubber coupling in the center which wears over time and creates potential for loose steering feel--an issue I had with mine.

Fourthly the upper U-joint has to be welded back to the SN shaft. When you weld the joint you have to use care not to overheat the joint because if you do, it's ruined and there goes all the work/time you just put into it. I also did this, luckily I had more parts to choose from.

In the end, after "making" 2 or 3 hybrid shafts, I realized that the MM shaft is, in the long run, a great value. It costs but it is a NICE piece. I had maybe $150 tied up on the DIY route by time you figure in trips to the junkyard, the parts costs, fuel, time, labor, cleaning, fab time, welding gas, welding wire and/or tig filler, etc etc. The little stuff adds up. So after doing all of the fab work, and learning how to do it the hard way, I ended up buying the MM shaft anyway. Now both cars have them, one is a 4 cylinder. 92 GT is a cobra SPR-ZM rack and the 93 4 cyl car is a GT rack. The difference in "feel" is not that substantial, only slight. My dad drove both cars today and said that he could not tell the difference in steering feel; although there is a HUGE difference between mine and his late 93 GT which is bone stock including the stock fox body rack.
 

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SN95 steering racks have no capacity for end thrust on the input shaft. If you apply one to the rack, you will ruin it very quickly. Note that the SN95 steering shaft has telescoping sections which slide fairly easily to stop any end thrust on the input shaft. If you install a SN95 lower u-joint on a Fox steering shaft, there is almost necessarily going to be some end thrust on the input shaft because the Fox shaft doesn't have a telescoping section. It has a rag joint with a very small amount of end compliance.
 

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This is a simpler mod that only involves modding 1 end of a stock 89 shaft,(rag joint end), cut off rag joint, weld on joint that slides over shaft. Done. The clocking issue is easy to solve by just copying the relative position of the ends of the SN95 one. I'm not at all concerned w being being able to make a weld the will withstand the minimal force of steering input.
 

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SN95 steering racks have no capacity for end thrust on the input shaft. If you apply one to the rack, you will ruin it very quickly. Note that the SN95 steering shaft has telescoping sections which slide fairly easily to stop any end thrust on the input shaft. If you install a SN95 lower u-joint on a Fox steering shaft, there is almost necessarily going to be some end thrust on the input shaft because the Fox shaft doesn't have a telescoping section. It has a rag joint with a very small amount of end compliance.
Jack thanks for the tip. I didn’t know the sn racks couldn’t take any pressure on the input shaft. I wondered why you incorporated the telescopic feature to your steering shaft but now it makes sense. For me building the solid Fox shaft was easy just cut and tig weld it together I have a circle track style splined hub and removable wheel so clocking the wheel isn’t an issue for me. But I don’t want to blow out racks from undo forces being applied where they’re not supposed to be. So you will probably get my business when I buy a rack. Thanks for all you do and the knowledge you share it’s appreciated 👍🏻.
 
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