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Discussion Starter #61
i think the curb weight of a stock bronco is around 4500lb. its current weight i dont really know but might still be 4500. once you upgrade from an 8.8" to a semi floating 10.25" axle, but then convert drums to discs. put a winch on the front, but go aluminum cylinder heads. put somewhat bigger tires on but remove the spare tire and rack. so now its probably around 4500ish. but when i swap to a full floating 10.25", swap the front to Dana60 outters, put bigger tires on it, and possibly abit more lift, it will probably be around 5000. if i decide to go 35s, it would be normal mud tires on aluminum wheels so not too much heavier. but if i go 37", they are heavy military tires with very heavy steel recentered double beadlock humvee wheels, they are 170lb each.

my 90 F250 is just about as heavy but i went a different approach. its just a mild 302 with a E-street heads, mild cam (Comp 35-512-8), 1.72 rockers, GT40 intake, long tube with dual 2.25 exhaust. has a 4R70W with 4.56 on 33" tires. its running Explorer 5.0 EFI with tuner and i gotta say the thing is amazing. the thing really takes off good, much better than the bronco. gets decent fuel mileage if i can stop my lead foot. my only gripe is i wish i had gone 4.88 or 5.13 gears. i do occasioanlly use it to tow my 3rd offroad only truck to events and it struggles. i originally wanted 4.88 but choose 4.56 thinking if i do have to tow with OD off, i dont want the rpm screaming. but with 4.56 it really doesnt like towing over 60mph in either mod. had i gone 5.13 then it would tow much better with OD on and been alot more fun. but theres always room for making it a 347 and putting the AFR185 heads on it.
 

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The car in my garage weighs 4000 lbs, 3.23 gears, auto, 446ci,10:1 compression, has a fairly tall 6 bbl dual plane intake, heads that are probably slightly smaller than the AFR 185s but flow substantially less, and a 509 adv. 248 @ .050 108 lsa cam. The car had more low end torque than it could put to the ground and wouldn't stop accelerating until you were going fast enough to get your license suspended. I can't see why your engine with a more suitable cam couldn't do the same. What tuner do you use on your stroker?
 

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i mean idk, maybe i will push the engine up to 6k rpm, i jsut will spend most of the time in the idle to 3k range as i daily drive it. as it is now there no point because because there is no power in that range. if i have an engine that will be good up to 6k, then ill utilize it the best i can. like i said i do have a tuner i can adjust shift points. but i imagine a higher stall converter would probably be needed and i really dont want to change that. however the more i think about it, the more willing i am to get a higher stall converter. there many options for a high stall E4OD converters and the trans warrenty required me using their TC and the highest they offered me was a 2300-2500 stall. most E4OD converters are low stall for diesels

im currently running 4.10 gears and 33" tires. i ordered 5.13 and either 35-37" tires. so i will have more gear/tire ratio to increase rpms. i debated for a long time about going to 5.38 as thats the max ratio both my axles support. my rear axle being a 1-ton 10.25" would probably survive fine but the small pinion on my front axle would be a weakness being a Dana44. i usually go to Dana50 differential since its direct swap and a slightly stronger R&P and bearings but i scored a great deal on a D44 electronic locker. theres literally 1 locker and 1 LS carrier available for D50, they have almost no aftermarket support.

im perfectly fine using 205s. my 185 i bought used, had a local shop go through them. i htink there one of the older versions that dont flow as well as the current versions. it jsut means it will take me time to save up. kinda spent too much on black friday and got some bills to pay. but if i have to buy a TC now then im gonna be set back even more. plus im still building my axles, then still need to buy tires, still need to buy alot of engine compenents, still have 2 other project trucks, still have xmas shopping. im trying to put at least 100$ a week to the heads and then a couple hundred or so towards everything else. jsut have alot of projects going on at once.

i really dont care bout that engine masters episode. it shows a moderate cam and 165 heads can make power. but it doesnt mean 205 heads wont be a better choice with the correct cam. IIRC they said that the small cam really did affect the test. they also said how part throttle would be different than a WOT pull.

i trust Eds experience over mine anyday obviously. everybody else seems to trust Ed. he is the one who is going to be building my cam and has all the technical data. while he might not be posting data and numbers on here which is leading to the argument, that doesnt mean he has time to write long information filled posts that people will still argue about.
Salesmen sell and this is one giant sales office. World wide and you don’t have to pay rent. Here’s a build with a reputable salesman’s cam and a reputable porters intake. Their combo made 225 rear horse on a 302 using TFS 170’s. This guy was led to believe that a ported lower and a stock F150 upper manifold would be similar to the Systemax. Sometimes it works out after the sell, sometimes not.
Is yours just falling flat on it's face? My asthmatic 306 pulls to 6k. Pull a spark plug and look at it. Maybe find a place and get a dyno pull to see what’s going on with the graph before getting a new top end.
 

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I’d be willing to bet he’d make more power everywhere with the 220cc over the 185cc. 185s are too small. Why put small block heads on big block cubes? With that method of thinking every bbc and bbf ford from the factory should have tiny ass heads instead of 260cc+
I getcha just dont confuse cc with cfm of flow...the lil small block heads already outflow the stock big block heads in some cases
 

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Discussion Starter #66
was trying to look up dimensions of the Box R to see if it would fit. couldn't find any, does anybody have a dimensions sheet of it and possibly the R series intake so i can see if i can make it fit?

while looking on Trickflows site, trying to find the dimensions for the Box R, i noticed that there is a three versions of the 75mm upper intake. they each have different rpm ranges. all 3 in the pics show a hole for the EGR at the throttlebody but in the specs only 1 of the 3 says for EGR. mine defiantly has the hole for the EGR which the smallest upper says it has, it also has the visual appearance of the 2 smaller uppers. i am wondering if i have the smallest upper Trickflow intake they make. however the pictures might also be incorrect or i might have a older model of one or soemthing. is there a way to identify which of the 3 versions i have?

this would explain why my engine runs like crap when the upper intake is bottle necking everything severley. i bought it from a member on here years ago, i assumed he bought the upper/lower 351 combo which included the largest 75mm upper. however the pic of the combo looks like mine so maybe its an older pic or model? would be very nice to jsut need to buy a new upper intake to get the power this engine should have.

'StreetBurner' TFS-515U1101 Idle-5,500 EGR:yes

'TrackHeat' TFS-515U1102 1,500-6,500 EGR:no


'R-series' TFS-515U1103 2,500-7,250 EGR:no



351w upper/lower combo which says includes the TFS-515U1103 but pic shows other style with identical pic to the TFS-515U1102


trying to dig though some old pics this is what my upper looks like. i have since changed the whole air intake

 

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I’d be willing to bet he’d make more power everywhere with the 220cc over the 185cc. 185s are too small. Why put small block heads on big block cubes? With that method of thinking every bbc and bbf ford from the factory should have tiny ass heads instead of 260cc+
So would I. No matter how many comparisons with a cam that is way to small for the motor get posted. Look at the flow numbers up to the max lift of the cam. What the heads flow at .800 doesn't matter. .580 lift 235/245ish @ .050 and 112 LS and you're making well over 500 ft lbs.

9.3:1 438ci = 566 hp 527 gt lbs na.

 

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was trying to look up dimensions of the Box R to see if it would fit. couldn't find any, does anybody have a dimensions sheet of it and possibly the R series intake so i can see if i can make it fit?

while looking on Trickflows site, trying to find the dimensions for the Box R, i noticed that there is a three versions of the 75mm upper intake. they each have different rpm ranges. all 3 in the pics show a hole for the EGR at the throttlebody but in the specs only 1 of the 3 says for EGR. mine defiantly has the hole for the EGR which the smallest upper says it has, it also has the visual appearance of the 2 smaller uppers. i am wondering if i have the smallest upper Trickflow intake they make. however the pictures might also be incorrect or i might have a older model of one or soemthing. is there a way to identify which of the 3 versions i have?

this would explain why my engine runs like crap when the upper intake is bottle necking everything severley. i bought it from a member on here years ago, i assumed he bought the upper/lower 351 combo which included the largest 75mm upper. however the pic of the combo looks like mine so maybe its an older pic or model? would be very nice to jsut need to buy a new upper intake to get the power this engine should have.

'StreetBurner' TFS-515U1101 Idle-5,500 EGR:yes

'TrackHeat' TFS-515U1102 1,500-6,500 EGR:no


'R-series' TFS-515U1103 2,500-7,250 EGR:no



351w upper/lower combo which says includes the TFS-515U1103 but pic shows other style with identical pic to the TFS-515U1102


trying to dig though some old pics this is what my upper looks like. i have since changed the whole air intake

Not sure if there is a way to tell the Street or Track heat apart other than the part number on the underside of the upper. I've attached a pic of my track heat upper part number location. You might be able to get a mirror under the front of the intake and read it.


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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427ci with the 220 heads 10.5:1 set up about where he should be


View attachment 1054991

That will pull a fat lady off her tricycle.
Hey Mark, not to bust on you, but below is the video you meant to post.

I was especially interested in this one as it's similar to my combo other than carb vs efi. Well, it also seems on further investigation to be a 4.17" stroke 427w.

 

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I think the R 90mm version would be a step in the right direction and like you said easy to swap just the upper.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
managed to get an inspection camera under it and it is a 3U which is the correct 75mm R-series upper. there goes my hopes of having the wrong upper being my issue.

i feel like i could POSSIBLY do the Box R but i need specs. i can probably cut and rework the firewall behind it. but i dont wanna buy it try it and have it not fit. im almost at the point of going to a carb style EFI intake. at least then ill know it will fit tho the runners will be short.

ive been thinking about hooking up a vacuum gauge to the intake. i figure if the upper intake or anything before it is the restriction, i should have significant vacuum at WOT. how much would be considered too much vacuum at WOT?
 

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Discussion Starter #73
finally got around to installing my Innovate DLG-1 dual wideband o2 gauge. what a chore that was. when i built the exhaust i had an extra bung on each bank with a plug for this but of course the plugs were both siezed. managed to get one out mangaling the threads a good amount but it cleaned up ok with a tap. the other i had to weld a nut to and even then it snapped the top half of the plug off so i had to drill and tap it also mangling the threads. then after isntalling it, turns out the controller for the second bank is defective so only 1 bank is showing till thats replaced.

but at least i got to drive around abit with one bank showing. there things are pretty cool, quick to responed too. pretty much all the time (idle, cruise, WOT) im around 14-15 AFR so at least i know im not way off tho i could use more fuel. does show that i need more tip-in fuel as for just a milisec when i accell it will jump up to 17-20AFR. also when coasting it will go open loop and max the AFR which i knew before but dont know how to fix.
 

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For a big car/truck that has lots of weight, you need a set of E0SE-AB heads. Nice flowing small intake ports. I just happen to have a set that is sitting here. They are elusive, hard to find. Complete heads with springs, everything. I'd take $1800 shipped for them, or if you wanna come pick them up, I'll knock $200 off.








LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #76
well looks like im gonna have to go with the new heads regardless. also im gonna have to rebuild this engine sooner than expected. took truck to do some light new years eve offroading. defiantly did not go as planned.

when i get out there, i think one of my linkbar lifters had a bad failure as it started making alot of noise like a ton of slop was present.


was in a bad area so i drove it to a bonfire so i can inspect it. soon as i got to the fire the engine clunked and shut down. when cranking i noticed it seemed like a cylidner was no compression. so while cranking with the dizzy cap off, i determined cylinder 2 had no compression. pulled the cover off and the rocker arm was full of slop. then i noticed the valve itself was stuck open and unable to be freed up. im guessing the slop in the pushrod made it get misplaced and then overextended the valve and hit the piston.


as a trail fix, i removed both rockers and pushrods, disconnected injector and spark to disable that cylidner, hoping i can drive 7 cylidners to pavement to get towed home. it actually ran pretty smooth that way other than the TERRIBLE noise of i assume the lifters bouncing on the cam and the bottom of the head. unfortunaly it seems that something much have locked up the valvetrain because the engine shut off and suddenly the camshaft or timing chain was broken


got it towed home, used a inspection camera in the cylinder. can defiantly see the valve stuck open a good portion and the piston has a good mark from hitting it. hopefully theres no major damage to the piston.


so it looks like im gonna defiantly going with new 205 heads. maybe these can be rebuilt. gona tyr and pull engine at some point but i might need to save up some more and put the rest on credit
 

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Damn King, I hate to hear this. Perhaps it is a "blessing in disguise". I suspect you'll make more power with the newer, bigger parts, but feel something had to have been wrong in your setup that was causing you displeasure with what you had.

I purchased my FTI cam from Ed back in the spring (I think). I still haven't installed it, life, new job, deer season, etc., you get the picture. I am looking forward to it and think you are making a wise decision. I also purchased a Punisher VB, and Precision Industries torque converter. I think my stall is supposed to be around 2400rpms too. None of it or the other parts installed. I am sure with all the new parts I have it will be quite an improvement.

So, hang in there. It will eventually work out. Just takes time, money and sometimes patience. lol

Keep us updated.
tim
 

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Discussion Starter #78
been abit depressed about it but it is what it is. pulled the engine couple weeks ago. results were MUCH worse than i expected. engine was a complete loss. what i thought was a lifter issue was actually it throwing a rod. it must have hit the valve when i pulled the valve cover off and saw the valve stuck. managing to actually get the truck running again after that is surprising. but it did eventually not jsut snap the timing chain but also shatter the timing cam gear. it also managed to hit 7 of the 8 exhaust valves so the heads arnt too happy. the crank was worn badly on that rod journal, almost 0.070", so it msut have spun a bearing awhile ago and finally let loose. weird it never had a rod knock noise till the last few minutes, also there was no scorching on the crank or the rod.

quick video of soon as we pulled the engine




not only did the chain snap, it shattered the gear, sheared the pin, and broke the retaining plate.


blew a hole in my windage tray


mangled one rod. broke the other



very worn down journal. but no scorching


bottom of few cylinder walls are broken off.


7 of the 8 exhaust valves were bent and stuck wide open. not exactly sure why the exhaust valved broke, figured the larger intake valves would hit first. looking at the pic again it looks like ther are marks on the piston where the intake valves started to hit also.




one thing im not 100% about. when i pulled the upper intake, the internal EGR passage was full of oil. i dont know how that oil got in here. the lower intake was full.


the intake gaskets i used covered the passages going into the heads. one side had oil on it but was not torn. the other side was bone dry, guessing the intake does not connect to that side



any idea how oil was getting into the intake?
 
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