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Discussion Starter #1
First off I know what I'm going with add is bad and the car is not going to make a lick of power. I have had my Turbo kit for almost 2 years and pretty much have installed it and made 2 passes with a ton of issues created by the owner. I have decide to dust the car off and and try and make it to the track this weekend. First I changed my plugs and set the gap at .30. Next I hooked my wide and and made a few adjustments at idle 14.3-14.8 that's seems OK. My base fuel is set at 40 with 42's and a 255 in tank and a Anderson boost a pump. I finally went out and made a fuel throttle pass and I looked at my add reading and it was showing 8.6 and the car ran horrible. My question is what should I try at base fuel and the car made 12lbs .
 

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What's the set up? And what are you doing for timing?
 

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Make sure the wideband is calibrated. Second im gonna go out on a limb and say the boost a pump is your problem. With a 1:1 fpr should be good enough without the boost-a-pump.
Dont worry so much about idle afr. Its not that big of a deal. Mine used to idle around 15.5-16.0.

I would start at base fuel pessure and go from there with out the boost-a-pump. Log your afr with the wideband and make 1-2 psi change and see what is happening. Also what timing you got...Locked or spout in?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
First off thanks for the replies. The setup is a 302 with gt40x heads, 1.7rr's, b-cam, edelbrock performer rpm, 42's, dbx meter, on3 turbo kit, stock distributor, ar3924 plugs gapped at .30, I am also using a msd btm with a msd coil. The car has a performance automatics c4 with a hughes 10' 3800 stall with 3.27 gears. Like I stated I have a 255 in tank with a anderson boost pump that I was using with my novi 1000 before. As far as the timing goes my base is set at 10 with the spout out and I have the btm pulling 1 degree per pound. The AFR at idle is fine at 14.3- 14.7 its the full throttle AFR that is horrible. Today we added more tunes into the dbx meter in the range from 24's-60's and tried them all with very noticeable changes. The new problem we have now is the car sputters and pops and everything else during boost now as it did yesterday, my next question is the distributor could the ignition module be beginning to go bad
 

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dump the boost retard and lock the timeing with spout out and see how it runs,i am runing locked at 20deg with 255pump 42s c&l 16lbs of boost on3 76mm
 

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Spout out at 10* that thing is gonna run like crap. You would be better off spout in and pull your timing as boost rises. Try and ditch that bap. Really not needed.
 

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There is nothing wrong with using the BAP. It’s sole purpose is to increase voltage to the fuel pump under boost to allow it to flow more. The fuel pressure regulator is limiting the pressure regardless (or at least should be). Keep it in, it will do nothing but ensure you don’t max out your pump.

With that said, it just sounds flat out like you need to get a tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Spout out at 10* that thing is gonna run like crap. You would be better off spout in and pull your timing as boost rises. Try and ditch that bap. Really not needed.
The spout is in the car I set the timing spout out at 10 and replaced the spout sorry for not clarifying.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There is nothing wrong with using the BAP. It’s sole purpose is to increase voltage to the fuel pump under boost to allow it to flow more. The fuel pressure regulator is limiting the pressure regardless (or at least should be). Keep it in, it will do nothing but ensure you don’t max out your pump.

With that said, it just sounds flat out like you need to get a tune.
That would be awesome but the nearest tuner is roughly 6 hours away.
 
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