There will always be different experiences I suppose.I'm sorry but that's just not true. Actual measurements done before and after with my car, 3 times with the 60MM, 3 times with the 73MM, same brand/composition pads yielded an average of 18 feet less stopping distance with the 73 MM calipers.
Someone else here posted words to the effect that all the 73MM caliper did was increase pedal effort, while this is true to some extent the reason that it increases effort is that it has more area, has more fluid volume, and will exert more force on the pad (with a slight increase in pedal effort).
Just my $.02, but from research and experience.
I installed the drum and wheel then adjusted the brakes with 10 clicks as a start. Then I did the reverse / forward dance to allow the adjusters (which are new and lubed) to do their dance.To add:
Adjust the rear brake shoes so that you can just barely install the drum. If you leave 10 clicks of play, that will cause a lot of free brake pedal play. The system will self adjust to create clearance if it needs to. It can only reduce clearance if you back up the car and step on the brakes a bunch.
This is the kind of info that I'm looking for! I'm sure the system is properly bled BUT I will check again to be sure. The calipers are on the correct sides with the bleeders pointing back.Assuming that the proportioning valve situation is correct, the most likely problem is this. The m/c has two pistons in series. The pushrod pushes on the primary piston which pressurizes the system for the front brakes. The pressurized fluid in the front brake system is what pushes on the secondary piston in the m/c which is what pressurizes the rear brake system. Therefore if there is any air in the front brake system, there will be virtually no pressure ever developed in the rear brake system. See the cross section below.
I still have the stock brakes on my 89.The rear drums will not even get warm!!!
My bleeders were pointing backwards....just not back far enough. I'll push my point when I think I'm right but when I'm wrong I man up and admit it.The most common cause of this with 60 and 73mm Mustang brake calipers is that the calipers are on the incorrect side of the car. When they are swapped, air will be trapped in the calipers. When correctly installed, the bleeder screws on the calipers point rearwards, NOT upwards.
Can you explain dragging more thoroughly?(what would cause this one side drag)One side gets hotter than the other because the hot-side shoe is 'dragging' more than the other side. It's not complex.