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Discussion Starter #1
so i did an HPDE with the SCDA and had over 5 hours of track time. i put Hawk HPS pads on the front last thursday. i left the rears alone. about 5 hours into it, my front brakes were down to the backing plates.(and thats with the first 2 sessions in the wet). but my rear pads, which have been on since my first event last summer, still have about 1/2 life on them. so my front brakes are doing the lions share of my braking. whats the best way to get my rear brakes to help out more so i don't keep destroying my front brakes after each event? should i finish the cobra brake swap and put them on the rear? and would i need a prop valve? and next time ill try the HP+ on the front.
 

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From what I hear, HPS and HP+ pads are not really good pads for HPDE. They're OK for autocross because you never really get your brakes that hot. The reason is that they have a very steep falloff of grip as they heat up. Real track pads give up grip more gradually as the temp rises. You probably wore them out because you were trying real hard to get grip out of them that they just couldn't give. If you want to use Hawks, try their racing pads (Blacks, Blues, one of the numbered pads).
 

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Get a real track pad before you change anything else.

HPS = High Performance Street (not track)

--Vince
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Get a real track pad before you change anything else.

HPS = High Performance Street (not track)

--Vince
i know. i thought they would have been better then they were and didn't want a pad the was too harsh on my rotors. plus the car is still a DD so altho its not hard to swap pads, it would be nice to drive and race on the same pads. but i guess i cant have my cake and eat it too. ill try one of their race pads next time.

any suggestions on what ones? whats the difference between the blacks, blues, ht10's, 14's and dtc60's?
 

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I've run almost the whole line of Hawk Pads on my HPDE car. I've recently run 3 track days on the DTC-70's, and was pleased with them. They are not too much pad for my heavy SN95 car. If you are going to use Hawk pads and switch the for the track, the HPS/DTC70 combo might work well.

If rotor life is a big factor for you, the the CarboTech's might be what you want. I've also run the XP8/10/12 on the track, and like those also. Last friday I ran the XP12 front/XP10 rear.

If you drive to the track, the Blues and HT10's will munch your rotors at street temperatures much faster than the CarboTech's.
 

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I used serval pads in the past:
PF-Z's,PF01's, PF97's, Spec VR's, and currently run DTC-70's. These are my favorite.

This is for track pads (NON-street) only.
 

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I have run a few different pads as well. The one thing that is always true is you need a track pad for the track and a street pad for the street. You can get by with a track pad on the street if it is ONLY to drive to the track, but other than that it is not a good way to run.

I have run Porterfield R4, PF-Z, and PF-01. The PF-01 was my favorite. All 3 are very easy on the rotors. The R4's held up well, but they did not have as much friction as the others. The PF-Z's were OK, but they did not last that long. The PF-01's had a good friction level (fairly high, but not too high that it is tough o modulate or flat spots tires) and that lasted quite awhile. With any of these pads I replace my rotors due to heat checking before they show significant wear.

I was recently looking into new front pads and the Hawk DTC-60's were highly recommended. The DTC-70's have a slightly higher friction level than the DTC-60's. The two pads are very similar, but I was told to go with the 60's unless I was running R tires.

For the rear, do the Cobra swap and run a quality street pad. The Porterfield R4-S, the Hawk HPS, or just some decent brand semi-metallics will be fine.

Lastly, run some brake ducts on the front.

--Vince
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have run a few different pads as well. The one thing that is always true is you need a track pad for the track and a street pad for the street. You can get by with a track pad on the street if it is ONLY to drive to the track, but other than that it is not a good way to run.

I have run Porterfield R4, PF-Z, and PF-01. The PF-01 was my favorite. All 3 are very easy on the rotors. The R4's held up well, but they did not have as much friction as the others. The PF-Z's were OK, but they did not last that long. The PF-01's had a good friction level (fairly high, but not too high that it is tough o modulate or flat spots tires) and that lasted quite awhile. With any of these pads I replace my rotors due to heat checking before they show significant wear.

I was recently looking into new front pads and the Hawk DTC-60's were highly recommended. The DTC-70's have a slightly higher friction level than the DTC-60's. The two pads are very similar, but I was told to go with the 60's unless I was running R tires.

For the rear, do the Cobra swap and run a quality street pad. The Porterfield R4-S, the Hawk HPS, or just some decent brand semi-metallics will be fine.

Lastly, run some brake ducts on the front.

--Vince
thanks for the info. i did make some brake ducts.
http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1114771

ill go a head and do the rear swap. do i need anyhthing else like a cobra prop valve? or since im cobra front and rear it should work out ok?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
so i decided to go with the DTC-60's because im not running R comps. i also ordered up the cobra rear kit. i'll use what ever pads come loaded in the calipers for now. i have another track day at NJMP on June 19th so i'll be sure to post back some info.
 

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so i did an HPDE with the SCDA and had over 5 hours of track time. i put Hawk HPS pads on the front last thursday. i left the rears alone. about 5 hours into it, my front brakes were down to the backing plates.(and thats with the first 2 sessions in the wet). but my rear pads, which have been on since my first event last summer, still have about 1/2 life on them. so my front brakes are doing the lions share of my braking. whats the best way to get my rear brakes to help out more so i don't keep destroying my front brakes after each event? should i finish the cobra brake swap and put them on the rear? and would i need a prop valve? and next time ill try the HP+ on the front.
Most Mustangs, as a general rule will go through 2-4 sets of front pads for every rear set of pads. :)
 
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