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I am getting ready add nitrous to my 96 Cobra, car has minor boltons and 32k miles. I have been reading in back posts regarding dry vs. wet kits. Assuming the only criteria is cost under $600 for the kit, not counting purge, heater, etc What kit would you go with? I keep hearing wet kits will eventually blow the intake? Others talk of dangers of fuel in intake. Every carb car runs fuel in the intake so I don't understand this concern. Are the wet kits really that dangerous to the engine? Sounds like they make better power. What are the advantages of a dry kit? Regardless of kit, I plan to install a purge, bottle heater, blow down tube and only spray above 3500rpm. Also what should the upper rpm limit for the spray be for a 4.6 DOHC?
 

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I got my Zex kit in the mail today. I went with a dry kit because of the plastic intake on the GTs and since my intake has already cracked once. I would imagine you could run a wet kit without that worry though because the intakes on the cobra are aluminum, right?

Anyway, about the Zex kit. Only costs $450 as compared to $600 for the NOS kit. That was one of the major reasons I went with Zex. Supposedly its the only "smart" nitrous system. It looks at bottle pressure are regulates fuel compared to the bottle pressure so its "never too rich, never too lean". Plus its an easy install, only have to run about three lines.

On the down side, its purple and "all the ricers use Zex". This is my first kit and I felt it was a good beginner kit. Pills range from 75hp to 125hp.

I have also read a few posts lately about NOS's solenoids acting up and sticking open. Dont know if it a problem, not putting down the NOS kit but it might be something to think about.

Dont know much about wet kits but I hope I gave some useful information. I have read that they make more power though.
 

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97TomGT said:
I got my Zex kit in the mail today. I went with a dry kit because of the plastic intake on the GTs and since my intake has already cracked once. I would imagine you could run a wet kit without that worry though because the intakes on the cobra are aluminum, right?

Anyway, about the Zex kit. Only costs $450 as compared to $600 for the NOS kit. That was one of the major reasons I went with Zex. Supposedly its the only "smart" nitrous system. It looks at bottle pressure are regulates fuel compared to the bottle pressure so its "never too rich, never too lean". Plus its an easy install, only have to run about three lines.

On the down side, its purple and "all the ricers use Zex". This is my first kit and I felt it was a good beginner kit. Pills range from 75hp to 125hp.

I have also read a few posts lately about NOS's solenoids acting up and sticking open. Dont know if it a problem, not putting down the NOS kit but it might be something to think about.

Dont know much about wet kits but I hope I gave some useful information. I have read that they make more power though.
I just got the Zex kit also. I think for a beginner it seems like safe kit. I am also getting the Window switch and the bottle heater.
 

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tnturbo said:
Every carb car runs fuel in the intake so I don't understand this concern.
Our intakes are designed to flow air, not fuel, that's why.

I'm running a NOS 5115-2 on my 96 Cobra. There are plenty here who run wet with no problems, others have nuked intakes or worse.

Are the wet kits really that dangerous to the engine? Sounds like they make better power. What are the advantages of a dry kit?
The wet kits do seem to hit harder than the dry at the same power level, but I haven't seen anyone explain why that is. As for the advantages of dry over wet, it goes back to the fuel puddling possibilities that arise when using wet, which can lead to trashed intakes and such.

Also what should the upper rpm limit for the spray be for a 4.6 DOHC?
Not that I suggest you do it, but I have hit the limiter on mine on the spray a few times and nothing happened, others haven't been so lucky. Aside from those few times, I run it all the way to 7K on the spray. I'm not running a window switch either by the way, nor am I retarding my timing.

......I plan to install a purge, bottle heater, blow down tube .........
The blow down tube normally isn't required in vehicles with a true trunk, like your/my car has (at least not here at Memphis Motorsports Park, may be different where you run) but in a hatch it is required.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would be very interested in knowing how the Zex kits work out, I have seen a lot of imports running their kit. Are accesories from the different brands generally compatible? Are the 10 lb bottles all a "standard" size will the bottle heater from NOS work with a Zex bottle?
 

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tnturbo said:
I would be very interested in knowing how the Zex kits work out, I have seen a lot of imports running their kit. Are accesories from the different brands generally compatible? Are the 10 lb bottles all a "standard" size will the bottle heater from NOS work with a Zex bottle?
I will send an update when I get it installed. I heard that the NX jets work with the ZEX kits, and also any bottle heater will work, and any purge will work. So I think its pretty much compatable
 

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You guys will like the kit. I used it every once and awhile last year. Went through 6-7 bottles with no problems. I checked the plugs often and they always looked good. I use NGK TR6's gapped at .035 and ran stock timing for a 125 shot.

I now have it apart and am changing a few things to try a 175/200 shot. :D
 

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Stedda, what fuel upgrades are you running, if any?

Im doing the headswap and the Zex kit and want to run the 125 shot. I dont know if I need new injectors and fuel pump though.
 

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Definatly get a fuel pump. I have a Walbro High pressure inline and intank. I ran the nitrous system with the 125 shot 2 or 3 times with the stock pump but I sure won't recommend it.

As for the stock injectors, you probably won't need them. Some one correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure that they are good for somewhere around 400hp.

Eric
 

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Stedda said:
Definatly get a fuel pump. I have a Walbro High pressure inline and intank. I ran the nitrous system with the 125 shot 2 or 3 times with the stock pump but I sure won't recommend it.

As for the stock injectors, you probably won't need them. Some one correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure that they are good for somewhere around 400hp.

Eric
i was wondering whats the different between the Inline and Intank pump, are they two differnt pumps, and why get both. i am thinking of running now more than 100hp. Where can i get the Walbro 255lph intank for a good price. I think the inline is a little more expensive than theh intank, am i correct?

Thanks
 

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They have high pressure and regular pumps. I was going to get the GSS317 (its an intank) when I first put it on.

I got mine from here www.musclemotors.com

Eric
 

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Stedda said:
They have high pressure and regular pumps. I was going to get the GSS317 (its an intank) when I first put it on.

I got mine from here www.musclemotors.com

Eric
I just checked on ebay, and the Walbro 255lph is selling for 89.99 and the 155lph is selling for 59.99 Is there a big difference between the two? what do the pumps do anyways. As far as i can tell they flow more gas, but does that mean i have to change the stock injectors to 24lbs?



Thanks
 

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You will not have to change your injectors for a 100 or 125 shot, mabey not even a 150. Your correct all they do is flow more so the fuel is there ready to use. I would go with the 255lph.

Get your self a MSD window switch and a NOS fuel pressure saftey switch.

Eric
 

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Stedda said:
You will not have to change your injectors for a 100 or 125 shot, mabey not even a 150. Your correct all they do is flow more so the fuel is there ready to use. I would go with the 255lph.

Get your self a MSD window switch and a NOS fuel pressure saftey switch.

Eric
Thanks, I have ordered the window switch, what does the fuel pressure saftey switch do, do i really need it since i am getting the window switch? I also saw a brand new purge kit for 69.99, cheaper than $99.99 ZEX brand, do you think there is a difference?
 

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The FP saftey switch with let you pick a FP that you it to shut off the nitrous system if it falls below that preset level. Just protects you from losing fuel and frying the motor.

You can use pretty much any purge. I used a NOS purge.

Eric
 

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Stedda said:
The FP saftey switch with let you pick a FP that you it to shut off the nitrous system if it falls below that preset level. Just protects you from losing fuel and frying the motor.

You can use pretty much any purge. I used a NOS purge.

Eric
hey stedda what is your quater mile time with 125hp of nos?
 

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Stedda said:
The FP saftey switch with let you pick a FP that you it to shut off the nitrous system if it falls below that preset level. Just protects you from losing fuel and frying the motor.

You can use pretty much any purge. I used a NOS purge.

Eric
What is the current pressure is the stock FP set at? and what should be a safe preset to use with the nitrous?

Thanks
 

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Just a note. The NOS kit costs more, but comes with a inline fuel pump. I wasn't very impressed with the pump though. It seems pretty janky. Also I am having detonation at the top with stock timing and the 150 shot.
 

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ONLY RUN STOCK TIMING


For the 150 shot I would even consider retarding it to 9 or 8 degrees.
Forget to turn your timing adjuster down and you will mostlikely blow your motor.

Eric
 
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